R.u.b.b.

[Rikpal]

Time to show something about a new project. I don't know if I'm happy or not.
I didn't build nothing yet, I just disassembled the body and slapped onto Hellcat (my16"WB clod)
This thing is huge. It doesn't matter how many time you see a 1:6 body in pics, When you see it in personit is much bigger than you expected.
See how little is my hand in the left of the picture.
Another time scale will be one of the goal of this project.
The final should look as a bad 4 long arm suspension Rubicon.
The known parts are the axles and the tranny, TXT for the first and E-maxx for the second. Tranny will be sure geared down.
wheels and tires aren't chosen yet, but a probable choice could be cut Mammoth ones.
Anopther choice could be cut clod rims with narrowed clod tires
I obviously will keep the interior, I need a driver (maybe 2)
Frame will be homemade as all the other part will.





Thanks

[jwrape]

I have built a few of these 1/6 scale trucks and Jeeps. I first built one of the Hummers on a USA-1 drive train that was stretched to fit. IT couldn't pull itself out of it's own way. i sold that one on Ebay.


My next one was my Clod Jeep. It turned out alot better. It is a great crawler but it is a GI Joe Jeep body made by Hasbro. It's a lot lighter than the New Bright one's

The 3rd 6th scale I built was the Avalanche Buster. It is VERY heavy but with 55t Lathe motors it does pretty good.

[jwrape]

Then i built my TLT 1/6 scale 21st century GI joe Jeep. It is the best so far. It has a Emaxx 2 speed tranny in it. I actually just bought another body to built another on of these with a single speed tranny this time.

[jwrape]

[jwrape]

Sorry for all the posts but I can't post more than 4 pics on each...


Anyway, the one piece of advice I have is either gear it down A LOT, cause that body has to be heavy, or take some weight off of it any way you can.

I had to remove the interior from the Avalanche to make it light enough for the suspension to hold it up. I plan to remove the fake motor plate out from under the hood to make it even lighter. Definately run either Magnetic mayhems or Lathe motors with 9t pinions as well as, of course, High torque servo's. I have 144 oz. servo's on mine and with the weight, they are just enough to turn the wheels sitting still.

But on the flip side, they are awesome looking and fun to drive and it's fun to see the kids in my neighborhood that have the regular New Bright trucks drool on themselves watching mine drive. They all want one.

I personally love my Jeeps. I wasn't a 1:1 Jeep fan until I started building mine and now i wouldn't mind having one of my own.
Keep us up to date with how it is going, I was curious myself about that New Bright Jeep. i was thinking about building one when they becaome cheaper on Ebay.

Let us know your progress.

Also, does that body come with any lights? i know the other New Brights have a bunch of accessories.

[AdamF]

I'm also building a 1/6 scale Hummer body. Very heavy, and I need to run a limiting strap in order to keep it from maxing out the suspension. It has a lot of sway due to the bdy being heavy as well. I might need to firm up the suspension.


I like that Jeep body. Should turn out good if its anything like the previous trucks you've built!

Your very right about the bodies looking small in the pictures. They are absolutly huge in person!

[jwrape]

Nice Hummer! I like it...

[Grizzly4x4]

That Rubicon body is fawkin sweet Rikpal (for a Jeep )

I'm not building a 1/6 scale rig but here a pic I wanted to post.

[pinkfloydman]

nice pic,

and for the orignal poster, waht material nad whats the frame gonna look like? is it gonna be a scale like frame like on a jeep, or one like on a TXT or TLT

[Rikpal]

Thanks to all.
Jwrape: nice rigs you should have a big room to hold them
Thanks for the tips.

Adamf: Nice hummer. You should lower the body a bit IMO, but I'm scale mad

Griz:

Pinkfloydman: Frame will be scale one. The first idea is to build something similar to Pitbull, but I'd like to have bended reils as the real one. I just have to find a way to do it. Bad thing is I can't weld so It's a difficult goal to get ;)

[Rikpal]

Time a little update (very little tho )

Here's the bottom of the body.


As you can see if I mount the motor in the stock position the tranny is too low.


Definately too low. Easy way could be removing body part.
That's not the Rik's way


If I could mount the motor on the opposite side of the motor plate
the tranny should be more or less in the right position.


Better situation, isn't it?


Not only, there is some plastic I could dremel away without touching the interior.
When i'll trimm the body the tranny will be raised around 1/2 inch more.


Time to hack, mill and file. The added motor plate is done.
Here's a mockup but everything is already bolted.


The unit in place. There will be a gear reduction (similar to the ones I built for Hellcat "Roktoy's style") between the motor and the plate. I'm gonna use 48P pinions to build it to keep it small.
I should have a 2,5:1 (max ratio) reduction. Talking about ratios, the lowest I could have should be 105:1 in first gear and 65:1 in second gear. The highest ratios should be 16,8:1 in first and 10.4 in second.
Muhahahahahahahahahahahah.
Simply idiot ratios on a big tire truck, but the range is this
I'm thinking about 86,7:1 in first and 53,8:1 in second using a 16T motor.
This is a scale project, so it needs some speed ;)


Now the question is will a single motor have enough torque to pull this thing?
I mean it's usual for you to convert shafty rigs into a single motor truck, but those are lightweight truck this NOT
I could always add the second, but I'd prefer a single to increase runtime.

What do ya think?

[mike]

is the body stiff enouph to use it as your chassis?

[Bsmooth]

Rik,

As I am sure you know, two motors mean twice the torque, but also twice the amperage. It all depends on the final weight I guess, Most of these crawlers here are around the 8 pounds (~3.5kg) and they run single motors. How much does all that body work weigh anyway?

[fastmaxxcooper]

Originally Posted by jwrape

I have built a few of these 1/6 scale trucks and Jeeps. I first built one of the Hummers on a USA-1 drive train that was stretched to fit. IT couldn't pull itself out of it's own way. i sold that one on Ebay.

ah ur hummer was heavy because the interior detail. the hummer i picked up had tinted windows and no interior. its much lighter

[Rikpal]

Sorry for the late guys ;)
I'm busy in these days, but found some time to work on RUBB.
I'm gonna keep the dual motor setup tho. If this thing will weight proportionally to Pitbull, it will be HEAVY


Time for a little update.
After some thinking and repositioning I decided to build a geared down T-case.
I first though to use TXT gears, with a ton of custom work,
including building something to lock the first gear on the T-case input shaft.
then something clicked in my mind and a TXT diff compared in my brain.
After some other thinking I looked at the old Juggy 1 axles I have laying around.
Fortunately I didn't trash them. ;)

Here's my T-case. Ratio inside is 1,75 :1, not so bad.
I'm not sure I wanna keep the motor gear reduction at this point.
I could easily reach ratios around 70:1 in first gear without the reduction


BasicallyI chopped the ends of the axle plastic case.
And of course I had to re work the shafts.


This is what I ended with.
I hacked the stock shafts and milled the ends to make them fit with maxx drive shafts


I'm very proud of this. Some of you machining Gods will tell "where's the difficulty?",
but consider that I haven't a lathe ;)




Then started to think about frame.
Here's all the part in the place where they will be.
Of course the axles will be there on full compressed position.




Believe or not, but the frame and the T-case are in place where they will be. ;)

[Bsmooth]

Rik! That is AWESOME! Great use of a tamiya axle! Maybe I need a bigger truck

[mike]

nice truck.!

[pinkfloydman]

looking good, looks ing good, but whawt are you going to do with the fac tthat when the shocks arent compressed fully the wheels dont fit under the wheelwells, that a problem that i see with theese "scale rigs"

[BENDER]

Nice work Rikpal! I love the t-case idea. How did you turn the input shaft on axle (t-case) 90 degrees? Got any pics of t-case with top cap off?

[Rikpal]

Thanks to all. ;)

Bsmooth: big is cool (I love my little TJ tho)

Pinkfloydman: I think the problem is a geometry related one.
I mean as in every other 4 linked truck if I have the links too steep in the riding position the suspension movement will affect a lot the wheelbase.
My idea is to build a high droop setup, not a high compression one. The links will be as much parallel to the ground as I can (as the real ones have). ;)

Bender: ask and you'll be given
(read below)

Here's the complete driveline as it will be.
The connecting shaft is more or less at the right lenght
Note the dust cover between the stock motor plate and the homemade one. (it fit so I'm gonna keep it ;) )
I still have to build a gear reduction dust cover.


Here's the topgear with the new top shaft into it.


The top gear in place. The juggy diff is right under it.
As you can there's very little work to have the upper output shaft coming out from the side.
I just dremeled a hole. The top gear is bearing supported at both ends.
I just replaced one of the 2 stock bearing (5x11) with another that fit the bigger diameter of the shaft (6x11).
The only thing still to be done is some epoxy between the gear and the shaft to avoid the shaft to be pulled out.
In the pic on top of the gear you can see the place where the original shaft and where the bevels gears should go. ;)


As you can see I chopped the axle box before (or after it depends from you ) the stock bearing housing, so the T-case is closed for any dirt.


T-case will be here. It seems to be built for this body


This is the front section of the right frame rail after some hacking and mill trimmimg.
I still have to bolt the pieces togheter. ;)


Hope this explain all. If not, please ask.