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Old 03-01-2007, 09:30 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelChair
Also foundout at redrocks, I need some 3/8" lower links! I turned a solid 1/4" link into a bananna!
Where did you get those 1/4" links?????
Perhaps, as a Nylint Crawler, I am a bit behind the curve, but shouldn't they be pretty strong?
What're they made of? Hollow?
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:39 AM   #22
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Default Video Beiotch!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...86361245387467


OK.... OFF TO REDROCKS FOR TESTING!!!!!
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:37 PM   #23
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If the video wasn't totaly way to dark and I could have made anything out I may have been impressed.
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Old 03-04-2007, 05:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocjeeper
If the video wasn't totaly way to dark and I could have made anything out I may have been impressed.
Well I'm sorry man, But there is not much light at 3 in the morning.... I stayed up all night finishing this for the comp today.

There were pictures in the video too, could you not see them?

It still has a few bugs but overall I am VERY happy with it!

So if you were not I'mpressed, I'm sorry for your loss.

If you could not see both 23mm wheel hubs lock and drive then you "may" wanna have your vision checked!!

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Old 03-04-2007, 05:50 PM   #25
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i couldnt see it either.. I tried adjusting but it was really dark
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:21 PM   #26
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Ok, well then I appologize.

Wasn't tryin to make you guys squint.... I will take some better video.

I was just really excited after a week of building it and getting metal in my eye and have to have it drilled out.

Then, getting it done, Hours from the comp, staying up all night, still haven't been to bed.

Sorry about that.

I shall take more video that you will be able to see.

The video was more of a sneak peak of whats to come.... I didn't even have the tires on or the axle installed.

Maybe someone from the comp has some video of it in action...
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:27 AM   #27
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I will have to check my movies in the future!

I just watched it and It does not look how it did when I made it. Not only that, The addition of the sound track extended the length of the movie way past the end. It was a last second thing to add the sickness soundtrack.

I forgot you need to trim off the audio on thats left over after the video is over.

Then, The video where its dark, my original movies off the camera are alot better and you can see whats going on, thats why I responded the way I did earlier.

The biggest mistake I made though was posting without checking the video. I did that because I was in a rush and very tired, the battery had just got done charging and we were late to the comp because of the charging battery....

I figured since it was charging I would throw the video that I had together for a cut brake teaser video... Doh!


I feel stupid, but hey, I had no sleep, **** happens.

Sorry Everyone, Better things to come!
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Old 03-05-2007, 12:03 PM   #28
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Now this is an interesting idea... The vid was a little on the dark side but I think I've got the gist of what you're trying to do. (I'm assuming the differential will not be locked)
Here's a few quick layman-style notes on tool steels and the hardening thereof (what most of us know as "heat treating") I should preface that the types of hardenable tool steels and the methods used to harden them are vast in number.
If you heat a heat-treated part beyond it's critical temperature (you'll see a color change - yellow/straw/brown/blue/gray as you get hotter, this is what occurs if you machine a heat-treated part w/o taking proper precautions to prevent it from overheating) that's essentially what you are doing -annealing. That's why you ruin a heat-treated part if you make it turn colors. If you can make your modifications w/o overheating the part (by constantly quenching the part in a cup of water/oil if working the part by hand, or flowing water/oil over it while it's being machined if it's chucked in a lathe/mill or otherwise jigged up and unable to be moved) it will retain it's hardness. Getting a part to yellow or a little beyond will probably not change the heat treat. If you turn it brown to blue to gray, it's done. You just annealed it.
Annealing a steel alloy - heat it to it's critical temp (usually a dull cherry red - 1800 degrees F approx for most tool steels) and pack it (I pack parts in lime) so it cools slowly over a period of 4-6 hours. This will return the steel to it's softest state for ease of machining, etc. So you won't eat up drill bits, lathe or mill tools, or sanding/grinding wheels/belts trying to remove hardened metal.
To return the part to a hard state after machining, (heat treat) it needs to be brought back to it's critical temperature and then quenched to cool it quickly. (depending on alloy, the optimum quenching agent will be either oil or water. Some steels are even air-hardened)
Now the steel will be at it's hardest state. Too hard for many applications, the harder the steel becomes, it will also become more brittle. (for example - What's the hardest substance known to man? A diamond, of course. They will cut glass. But what happens to a diamond if you tap it with a hammer? It will shatter...)
That's where tempering comes into play - re-heating the part to a lower temperature (usually a strong yellow/straw color) and quenching several times. This is the tricky process as far as the temperature is concerned - if you return the part to near it's critical temperature, you lose the heat treat and have to start over.
For the application under discussion, I don't think over-heating the parts you mentioned is going to be much of a concern. Sounds like you've done some testing on your own, also. You should be fine with the limited amount of torque you'll be applying here.
You ain't breaking Grade 8 hardware with an r/c truck. No way...

I've seen a show or 2 at Redrocks - I'd bet there are so many good lines in that place!

Last edited by Big Mike; 03-05-2007 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:24 PM   #29
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Default Lookout!!!! Carnage!!!

Went up lookout Mountain today for some testing since it survived the comp...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeaDShorT
I doubt that the grade 8 hardware will break, but if it can be done your Wheelchair WILL be the acid test


Quote:
Originally Posted by lohocla
you wont break grade 8 hardware... I use grade 8 chain and binders for holding down big tracked excavators like a Case cx130... really strong


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanicalbob
So if you break one..............


Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mike
You should be fine with the limited amount of torque you'll be applying here.
You ain't breaking Grade 8 hardware with an r/c truck. No way...
Yeah, your right, 200 to 1 and the mamba don't make much torque! haha...
Seriously though, thanks for the info!
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50095945980222

I was careful not to heat any of the components, nothing got hot enough to turn color except for the drillbit when I drilled the alignment hole dead center on one.... if it weakend it there its not going to matter....

No, The weak point turns out to be the wheelpin hole. I thought I could get away with an 1/8" pin but I had to go back to the same size as the stock e-maxx... I have had good luck with the roll pins I used in the MIP shafts before... Its kind of like a hub fuse. I have to REALLY torque on it to kill one.

I already had a concern about the wheelpin but did not have enough time to Rebuild one before the comp. It held in for it so that makes me happy!

The WheelChair will be back in action with the smaller wheel pins VERY soon. I predict no more carnage for the GR8 Axle.

Here is a short clip I made today showing the cutbrakes in action, I have video of it being useful but we had to offload it on ed's laptop because we took so many pics today. He is on his way back to alamosa so it will be a while before I will have access to them again. :-(


I didn't catch who took video at the comp... any chance of gettin to see the video taken of the cutbrakes in action?
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...69523425780880
I need a camera man.

Last edited by WheelChair; 03-06-2007 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:59 PM   #30
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Thats a really cool idea man! I like that!

Later,
Jake
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:12 PM   #31
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Default Broke The 3rd Grade 8 Shaft Today!



Yeah, I was right about the 30 foot drop thing....

While tryin to get the left rear to lock, the WheelChair fell off the Edge of Insanity today...

Landed right on the side I was trying to lock!!
I guess I needed to build another shaft!!

So now I have 3 snapped grade 8 bolts.

First two the pin was too big.

This one.... well... a stock maxx knuckle and MIP would have shattered with the force this thing took!

If it would have locked, I would have been just fine and made it.

I thought for sure it bent my axle tube looking at it from up top, but after I got down there I realized the only damnage was the shaft itself.

But all of that is ok. I have gotten alot better at building these shafts and I realized on the last one that It needs to be really straight to begin with... I was in the hardware store for 10 mins this morning to find only 1 bolt that was straight!

It works SO much better on the side I built this morning because it is so straight.

The old side that gave me crap today was the one that suffered the rath so I'm pretty happy about that! Also the pin was not centered as good as it could have been.

I gotta go find another hardware store... I gotta get back up the mountain and get the bugs worked out!!!!
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:02 PM   #32
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I like your idea, but I think you need more weight on the rear to make it more effective.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:11 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdaparts
I like your idea, but I think you need more weight on the rear to make it more effective.
I agree 100%...

There is Usualy another 6 cell on the rear knuckles... It died in the river...

Pickin up another 3300 in a few mins here...
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:48 PM   #34
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nice vid......
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:04 PM   #35
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Default Revision 5.0

4 Broken shafts now!

I am down to the smallest drillbit in the pic for a wheelpin.

You can see the one axle that is not snapped off yet is broken but still holding.

Took a 30+ foot plunge off a cliff because the action of the whole
cut brake linkage was not smooth enough to enguage.

I added another servo to balance the forces needed to shift it how I need it to.

Here is a shot of Revision 5.0, headding out to test it now!
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:35 PM   #36
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Default Revision 5.0 holds up to 40+ foot drop!

Went out today, Had a Blast all day!

Killed a 645 gear right away, had another one, put it in while it charged.

Had a crowd gathering watchin me crawl, so I thought I'd try the insano line...

I had a killer run, just walkin where ever.

Got to the edge, put it on slowmo and crept along really nicely for 14.4v!!! Damn that Mamba is nice, Ended up doin a cartwheel down a 40 foot V notch, Saved by 3 foot pack of snow at the bottom!

There is not even a place you could take a picture from that would show how far it fell.

It caught about 3 seconds of solid air time and Bam! The V notch.

1 Jato end
1 8/32 stainless stud
1 Huge OFNA? rod end.

Popped the driveshaft back in and it drove up the rock sitting there solid packed with snow and draggin a link. HAHAHA

No sense having it unless you use it!
You are not having fun till you get stuck or break something.

The Wheelchair Will be back in the morning for another serving.

Thank you lookout, May I have another?

Action of the week:
Lookout Mountain Teaser!

Last edited by WheelChair; 03-09-2007 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Adding video link
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:50 PM   #37
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I think I have the answer for the broken links...ugpm
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trom b
Where did you get those 1/4" links?????
Perhaps, as a Nylint Crawler, I am a bit behind the curve, but shouldn't they be pretty strong?
What're they made of? Hollow?

Well the 1/4" solid aluminum hold up for the upperlinks, but i have been KILLING lowers like they are made of plastic.

Thats why I went to 3/8" solid aluminum that held in there till the 40 foot drop off yesterday.

Now I just picked up some 1/4" rod ends, and plan on grade 8 1/4" Bolts for links.

Just for the lowers.

Its going to be alot heavier but it will not break I don't think.

I hate having to go home because I'm broke.
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:48 AM   #39
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nice!
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:16 PM   #40
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Default Aluminum Output Gear

Output gears piss me off.

With my front dig inside the tranny, it does not spin on the front output shaft anymore it does not need bearings.

I had to build the ultimate replacement for that junk 31 tooth second gear output.

Started with 1/2" 6061 Aluminum Plate:


Busted out the Drill with a 1.5" hole saw bit with a 5.95mm drillbit.




Still not finished, but thought I would post some progress.





http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...88202812580517
Think it will hold a Hyperion 3025 back?

Last edited by WheelChair; 06-25-2008 at 05:32 PM.
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