Raptor Pre-Runner Build

[Raptorn]

TL;DR Pic heavy and slow custom build thread. Kid goes from thinking things to making things. Action heats up in subsequent pages
Teaser:



INTRO: I've bought a New Bright Raptor Body on Ebay a couple months ago, and I plan to complete it with custom independent suspension and a four link rear, and eventually a full metal roll cage. I'm going for a really scale and realistic look and functionality, so almost all of it will be metal, fabricated by yours truly. Just a few comments regarding the build- This is actually a science fair project, so I will have a rolling chassis BY THE END OF JANUARY. (I capitalized that because I need to impress that point on myself.) This will be my first real R/C, but I have lurked here for a while and am all over YouTube, so I know some things about the hobby, but I know I will ask noob questions. Everyone does. I am not concerned with weight, to an extent. The science fair part of this only really involves the suspension, so that is priority one, right behind the frame, which is simple. I have plans to continue this all the way to a running truck, but things such as electronics and drive train are not a priority now. Of course I am open to discussion and any tips you have (especially which transmission to run, because I have no idea about that). The last stage of the grand plan (read: lots of work) is a full roll cage including roof rails to protect the body and a bed cage. But this is way in the future, and I need to focus on what is due by January.

Moving on, I am designing the chassis and suspension in Autodesk Inventor, but I am on a time table, so I will be building the easier parts as I design the harder ones.

Right now I have the frame made of 1/2 in angle iron, that ends before the axle and has a raised front to clear the IFS. I want to run a wraith axle for their scale looks, durability and availability, but can anyone confirm their width with wheels on? I also want a centered housing to eliminate any conflict between the drive shaft and the frame at full compression. Does anyone know where I can get a completed axle (preferably with gears, axle shafts, and ready to bolt links on)? The axle is a major hold-up in tangible progress, so I would like to get that as soon as possible.

Otherwise, I will get pics when I make progress, and I will try to post up some drawings soon. I will definitely need advice from you guys who have built this kind of stuff before, so I am looking forward to this build! (Sorry for the long post, but this needs background story.)

[Mike Flea]

My wraith axles, with Axial Rockster beadlocks, and mounted TSL Super Swampers, outside of tire to outside of tire is 12", and they have stock hexes. Try to keep your weight low, to keep your center of gravity low, and that can be done by adding wheelweights, I've also added some stick-on weights to the top of the servo housing. You can probably find a decent set of Wraith axles either on e-bay or RCRecycler.com, but do a good search. Personally, and I did this myself, for $309, purchase an Axial AX10. You get the wraith axles, all the electronics, it comes with a TVP chassis, but you don't need that as you are building your own frame, but the extra screws will come in handy, you can make your own links out of allthread, brakeline, and traxxas link ends, because the stock links may not be long enough. And most of all, have fun building it. I've been working on my 1/6 Willy's since June. I knew how to braze, but had to learn all over again doing my rollcage. Check out some of the other 1/6 builds here, too. I think I remember seeing a couple other Raptor builds in these threads.

Check Tower Hobbies website too, if you sign up they send you discount codes you can use on purchases, so you might be able to get that AX10 at a lower price.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

My wraith axles, with Axial Rockster beadlocks, and mounted TSL Super Swampers, outside of tire to outside of tire is 12", and they have stock hexes. Try to keep your weight low, to keep your center of gravity low, and that can be done by adding wheelweights, I've also added some stick-on weights to the top of the servo housing. You can probably find a decent set of Wraith axles either on e-bay or RCRecycler.com, but do a good search. Personally, and I did this myself, for $309, purchase an Axial AX10. You get the wraith axles, all the electronics, it comes with a TVP chassis, but you don't need that as you are building your own frame, but the extra screws will come in handy, you can make your own links out of allthread, brakeline, and traxxas link ends, because the stock links may not be long enough. And most of all, have fun building it. I've been working on my 1/6 Willy's since June. I knew how to braze, but had to learn all over again doing my rollcage. Check out some of the other 1/6 builds here, too. I think I remember seeing a couple other Raptor builds in these threads.

Check Tower Hobbies website too, if you sign up they send you discount codes you can use on purchases, so you might be able to get that AX10 at a lower price.

Thanks Mike. I'll check out those options, and I did see some other people using AX10s as starting points for 1/6 builds. I was planning on making my own links with metal rod and end links too.

[twissted]

I think it's going to be to heavy. Try the Axial 1/10 Yeti as a base for the build it is just what you need and it's light weight.


The 1/10 Yeti has the biggest foot print of all the axials that are 1/10 and if you look at the layout it is the best way to go. Building the killer cage will be the real focus of the build. done right it will be worth alot of money and get others to want to try the build. Good luck and this should be fun to watch.

[Raptorn]

Thanks for the support guys. The Yeti looks to be a great truck, but I can't use a base vehicle because of restrictions be the science fair people. And because I want this to be unique and really different.

RPP sent me a present today! Just wheels and tires though, so I got into mocking things up.

Here it is around ride height. I think it has to go up just a tad though for more bump travel.
And at full compression.

Those horrid stickers need to go, but that will happen in time. I am going to start CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to verify my frame measurements that I made in real CAD.

[twissted]

Well there are a lot of ways to do that. Remember that weight is what causes broken parts and over heating of the motor and esc. What is the wheel base restrictions?
I ask because your wanting to use The same axles that the Yeti uses in the rear of it. The front is wider though. It sits on a 14'' wheel base and I know that 1/6 scale is longer so you would have to make longer links. Also look aroud and see if anyone has done this to a Yeti. I think you will find that it hasn't been done. I'm not trying to push, just help you understand that it would take a lot of custom work to make anything work un this truck. The trick is getting it to work well so that you don't feel like you wasted time and money.
Since this is your first build you should use a platform that you can change but know that it works. Money will be tough, and getting parts off of ebay should help you buying a doner is the best way to save money. You can find rollers and there cheap depending on condition. A really cool build would be the traxxas summit with the short course Control A-arms under it. And the Losi Muggy with a brushless system is also a good place to start. And if you buy the HPI Vorza Motor mount it is very cheap way to convert the system to brushless.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by twissted

Well there are a lot of ways to do that. Remember that weight is what causes broken parts and over heating of the motor and esc. What is the wheel base restrictions?
I ask because your wanting to use The same axles that the Yeti uses in the rear of it. The front is wider though. It sits on a 14'' wheel base and I know that 1/6 scale is longer so you would have to make longer links. Also look aroud and see if anyone has done this to a Yeti. I think you will find that it hasn't been done. I'm not trying to push, just help you understand that it would take a lot of custom work to make anything work un this truck. The trick is getting it to work well so that you don't feel like you wasted time and money.
Since this is your first build you should use a platform that you can change but know that it works. Money will be tough, and getting parts off of ebay should help you buying a doner is the best way to save money. You can find rollers and there cheap depending on condition. A really cool build would be the traxxas summit with the short course Control A-arms under it. And the Losi Muggy with a brushless system is also a good place to start. And if you buy the HPI Vorza Motor mount it is very cheap way to convert the system to brushless.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help. I'm shooting for a 16.5" wheelbase front to back, and a 10.25" track width on a narrowed wraith axle. On a whim I did some calculations and the Raptor body is actually closer to 1/8 scale than 1/6.

I don't want to sound stubborn here, but part of the reason for the custom work (planning on sand casting A-arms for the IRS) was that no one had done this before. I have always admired unique work, and now I have a chance to do it for myself.

The Ebay part is absolutly true- I have about $100 in parts shipping now, and the only other parts I need to buy to finish the rolling chassis would be shocks, front knuckles, and tie rod ends for links, and miscellaneous bearings. Those same parts would have cost me nearly $220 if I bought them from my LHS or online hobby shops.

Progress should start picking up in a week or two when parts arrive, and I find time to go make a frame.

[DeoreDX]

Are those 1.9" Krawler TAs? I've been looking for something to replace what I have on my 1/6 NB Raptor. Those looks like they fit the wheel wells great.

Bonus since I have a unused set of 1.9" Axial beadlocks laying around.

[OSRC]

Built an IFS one a while ago. 3-speed, 2/4WD. More of a trail truck than a pre-runner



The IFS I chose though did not hold up well. Have since started rebuilding it with Wraith axles front/rear. Just far simpler. Pic of current progress:


Do have a 1/6 IFS Dodge too, that one is holding up fine. Uses HPI components.


Keeping an eye on this, very few IFS trucks make it across the finish line. Be sure to post progress pics! Glad to answer any questions if I can. I can tell you that if you are looking for a centered axle, a Wheely king axle is a perfect match. Slightly narrower than a Wraith axle.

[Mike Flea]

Not to get off subject here, but I have your Dodge in my favorites list, OSRC, that was a cool build, and I'm a Dodge fan.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by DeoreDX

Are those 1.9" Krawler TAs? I've been looking for something to replace what I have on my 1/6 NB Raptor. Those looks like they fit the wheel wells great.

Bonus since I have a unused set of 1.9" Axial beadlocks laying around.

You're correct! They fill the wheel wells near perfectly.

I haven't updated this thread in a while because I changed plans- I am just finishing the design for the science fair. I have some pics of work I did, and I'll put up some screen shots of the near-completed 3D model later today.

[Raptorn]

The build is on pause until at least the end of this month. However, I really want to continue and see this through. This post is all progress made over the last couple weeks.

Here is the frame I made- 1/2 in. Aluminum angle. It isn't the strongest now, but it will get plenty of reinforcement later.




I also have a box full of parts sitting around begging me to do something with them. Alas, this is what the time has been pumped into. A working 3D model of what I hope to build. There are three things left to do: figure out a steering solution, dial in the suspension geometry, and edit the parts to make them look nice. Anyway- photo dump commencing


No biggie, just made a functional 4-link. Crawlers be jealous of this articulation!



To be clear, everything except the shocks and rod ends was made from scratch. The Exo hubs and knuckles were annoying!

That's all for now folks, if you want to see any more renders just let me know and I'll post 'em up!

[mitchponton]

Originally Posted by Raptorn

Thanks for the support guys. The Yeti looks to be a great truck, but I can't use a base vehicle because of restrictions be the science fair people. And because I want this to be unique and really different.

RPP sent me a present today! Just wheels and tires though, so I got into mocking things up.
Here it is around ride height. I think it has to go up just a tad though for more bump travel.
And at full compression.

Those horrid stickers need to go, but that will happen in time. I am going to start CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to verify my frame measurements that I made in real CAD.

What dimensions is this New Bright Body? I bought the 1/6 scale body which is much too big. Can you do me a favor and measure, length, wheelbase, and width? I would really appreciate it!

[adamargue]

i have a newbright 1/6 scale hummer witch is the same size as the raptor and it scales out to 7.44:1 scale if i remember correctly.

[Raptorn]

Sorry for not updating this thread. As always, this project got relegated to the backseat.

mitch:

The body is 26.5 inches long (without bumpers, I threw mine away because they are junk)
10 3/4 inches wide at the wheelwells
7 1/2 inches tall

[Raptorn]

In the last months, I have indeed got time to work on this, mostly in 1 or 2 hour stints. Progress is slow, although I did learn to TIG weld and 3D print parts.

Biggest progress is the rear axle. I can't remember where I found this trick, but it works. A standard wraith axle is too wide for the body, but cutting down the axleshafts by about 6mm and using XR10 lockouts narrows it just the right amount. The final track width is 10 1/2 inches, and I can't seem to take a picture of how perfectly is fits within the wheel wheels.


You also need to grind new flat spots into the shaft for it to fit into the diff. I went a little aggressive on removing material, so it fit on the first try. It also has a ton of slop (about 1/8 turn) between wheels.


I've also been slowly updating my CAD model to tweak parts and make them more realistic. I also want to start on modeling the roll cage soon, but I have to get a model of the body for that. It is slowly coming together.

If there are any questions, I will be happy to answer, as I will be around here more often now. Good Day!

[Raptorn]

I'm having trouble thinking of good looking cage / bedcage designs.

Post any ideas if you have them, pics are always better!

I'm going out on a limb here, with some pretty weird ideas. I want to have the tubes run along the outside of the top of the cab, like a very beefy roof rack. That way when I roll it at speed, the body doesn't shatter. I also want to incorporate a spare tire, and maybe even a 'fuel cell' to house the ESC like I've seen on scalers.

[Mike Flea]

If you want tubes to run around the outside of the cab, you'll have to make an exo-cage that pretty much outlines the entire body, and attaches to the chassis.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

If you want tubes to run around the outside of the cab, you'll have to make an exo-cage that pretty much outlines the entire body, and attaches to the chassis.

I thought about that, but it just doesn't fit with the idea of the build. I'm aiming for something along the lines of structural roof rails. It would just be two rods following the body lines. The rest of the cage would be inside the body for looks.

Here is the basic inspiration for the bedcage I found.

Simple, sweet.

[Raptorn]

This project is really starting to pick up speed now. I've got some of my major goals complete, and am researching the next steps (electronics and drivetrain).

The first big waypoint was mounting the body to the chassis. Now I can take accurate measurements for the cage and suspension.

These are the front body posts: I just threaded 6-32 allthread into existing holes! Lines up with the chassis, and no exposed fastners!


This is the rear set up- simply bolts through the bed. The 1 in spacers raise the body above the the framerails and give me vastly better suspension geometry.