SCX6 usefull mods/free mods and 3D prints

[HumboldtEF]

Share your SCX6 mods

First thing I wanted to change was a silly cosmetic item, the cowboy hat. I modeled up a Baseball cap with an Axial logo on it. I also painted the head while I was in there.







Here's the file for the hat minus the Axial logo (NOTE THE DOWNLOAD ALL LINK IS NOT WORKING CLICK 'THING FILES' AND DOWNLOAD THE INDIVIDUAL FILE) : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5102828

Then I took on the Battery tray As I do with almost every rig I get. Its probably fine stock but It just bugged me that one of my heaviest rigs with my heaviest batteries has the flimsiest battery tray. I was also able to move the batteries inward 10-12mm. I did try out making an EF Logo for my design, sorry for those who dont want that.
Overall dimensions for the battery tray are 46mm wide x 153mm long





Here's the battery tray file (NOTE THE DOWNLOAD ALL LINK IS NOT WORKING CLICK 'THING FILES' AND DOWNLOAD THE INDIVIDUAL FILE) : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5102056

I was just looking at the flex in the panhard mounts and Exocaged just put up a video showing what he's done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKTXlO_wKnw

I'm gonna go fab up a Brace for the panhard axle mount right now before I head out for a Trail run today.

EDIT: heres the brace I came up with for the panhard mount on the axle







Its pretty much the same as what Exocaged did but I used 1/8" steel instead of Aluminum. I thinned out the end nearest the shock collar to gain a bit of clearance and afterwards noticed the chassis end of the panhard bar was offset to the wrong side which was also causing the rod end to rub on the brace. So if you notice rubbing it may be the rod end thats backwards.

[HumboldtEF]

My rock sliders needed a few adjustments, they were set too narrow at the rear and they also interfere with the fender flares in back.

With the sliders set too narrow the body (in the back) doesnt want to go into the groove intended for it on the sliders.
I found that pulling the rear of the sliders out about 6mm and leaving the front side all the way in seems about right. Mine were installed all the way in front and rear.




The fender flares foul on the rock sliders here which pushes the sliders down.

I found that all I needed to do was slightly trim the corner off here (thats the rear)





I also found a spot to store the body clips on the rear shock towers. Its probably not the best spot long term as it does keep the clips spread open a bit. You can also put them on from below which allows you to yank them out after the body is on and you forgot to grab them first.

[AK KRAWLER]

Awesome tips and tricks, thanks for posting this up.

[svt923]

Does a bottle of mineral spirits, rubber gloves, and a couple rolls of shop towels to clean off the ungodly amount of grease on this truck count as a useful mod?

Seriously, I don't know what kind of grease they used but it sticks to everything, is seemingly impervious to all kinds of normal degreasers, and is friggin everywhere.

An actual tip if you want to install a 11T pinion (like if you want to run 4S), you have to file some off the gear cover to actually let the motor fit.

[MAC FAB]

Nice job on the double shear bracket for the steering, that was a failure waiting to happen.

[Druxus]

I made a bracket for the panhard mount to make it double shear as well as the mount on the axle out of 3/8 brake line. I flattened the end in a vice and drilled a hole in the flat spots. I wanted to go strait across but there was no good way to mount on the other side of the frame so I angled it i but. Doesn't seem too make a difference, the panhard mount is really solid now and with the one on the axle the steering is way better. I do have a castle bec set at 7.2 volts as well.

[HumboldtEF]

Great idea Druxus

[HumboldtEF]

I worked up a 3D printed bracket to repurpose one of the battery trays up front. I came up with this for a dedicated steering servo battery location (not the main battery location). It mounts to the bottom of the front crossmember. All of the stock battery trays are identical after the end pieces are removed.

File is up on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5141653



It uses the rear most holes on the bottom of the front crossmember to mount. These holes need to be enlarged a bit with a 3.5mm or 9/64" drill bit (stop when you hit the bottom of the hole). You might get away with not drilling it out though.
You also need two M4 screws about 8-14mm long.



You also need to cut off the two rear most fake bolt heads that are on the top side of the front crossmember (1 on each side). This is much easier with it removed from the rig.



You can re-use the 2 flathead screws to mount the battery tray to the bracket. They're M3 x 8mm.
You'll probably want your velcro strap in place before you mount it though.



This provides you with 36mm on the depth front to back and 94mm on the width.



I'm using it for a dedicated battery for the steering servo that way I can run 4S to it.

[AK KRAWLER]

Nice work my friend

[HumboldtEF]

I came up with another 3D print, a rear license plate mount that you can put your own plate in. It requires four M1.5 x 5mm screws and a small piece of 1mm lexan.





The license plate was made using Acme License maker: https://www.acme.com/licensemaker/

Resizing the image to 290% seemed to be about right but I did use an image I had saved 3 years ago so I'm not sure if it'll work for you too, let me know. I just printed it on regular printer paper and laminated it which may be overkill.

The plate frame was printed in silver. The 1mm lexan is the next layer, theres a template included so you can cut it to size, then the license plate and the bottom piece.



If you want to print one yourself heres a link:
NOTE: THE DOWNLOAD ALL LINK IS BROKEN ON THINGIVERSES END, CLICK THING FILES AND DOWNLOAD THE INDIVIDUAL FILES:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5150786

I did a few other mods: I simplified the LED wiring removing the the servo plugs and replacing them with JST plugs though only 1 for each end as theres no need to have to plug in 2. I also extended the lead on the chassis side so I can lay the body down next to it and plug it in, stock is just a little too short for that. The JST plug makes it so you cant plug this in backwards.

I also trimmed the sides of the inner fenders back about 1/4" so when I put the body on I dont have to fight with it (the inner fenders interfere with the actual fenders). For some reason I was resisting doing this but I'm so glad I did as putting the body on is no longer a chore.

I also took the ESC power switch off the bottom and moved it to the inside where I actually remember to use it. This also allows me to plug into the switch to program the ESC, its pretty much inaccessible in the stock location.

Also on the programming front I made up a 3' long servo extension so I can plug in to program it and have the rig on the ground as I dont have room on my desk. The supplied cord is maybe 10"-12" which is way too short for this massive rig.

[HumboldtEF]

I just tried out a few different springs, orange (3.0) and purple (2.3).

The purple springs are too soft IMO, the shocks fully bottom out with the body on (no battery), although I only tested them up front.

The orange springs are just about right in the rear and the front is good too but needs a bit of preload maybe. I think these are the sweet spot I was looking for, it gives me some droop about 60-70%, more up front with no preload. It still crawls well with these and it still feels like slow motion in some situations just like stock does. The orange color is very close to the red so you may need to look closely.

I did a quick donut test in 2nd on polished concrete and these springs are too soft for bashing, so much body roll that it actually rolls. I had run it on some wet grass and it was able to bash around without much worry of rolling over on the stock springs.

Oh and the stock springs are silver and red, I forget the order. I tried to find the spring rates to know how they compare but I wasn't able to find anything.
EDIT: I finally found the spring rate for the stock red springs, 4.0


I looks a lot better at ride height now.

[AK KRAWLER]

I think that looks great HumboldtEF!

[bagged86]

Originally Posted by svt923

Does a bottle of mineral spirits, rubber gloves, and a couple rolls of shop towels to clean off the ungodly amount of grease on this truck count as a useful mod?

Seriously, I don't know what kind of grease they used but it sticks to everything, is seemingly impervious to all kinds of normal degreasers, and is friggin everywhere.

An actual tip if you want to install a 11T pinion (like if you want to run 4S), you have to file some off the gear cover to actually let the motor fit.

Man I know exactly where your coming from I tore the trans all the way down and used a toothbrush and gas to get all the SAPPY grease out. After that I used my compressor to blow it out and dry it out. I of course pulled all the bearings out and just wiped them down.

[Druxus]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I just tried out a few different springs, orange (3.0) and purple (2.3).

The purple springs are too soft IMO, the shocks fully bottom out with the body on (no battery), although I only tested them up front.

The orange springs are just about right in the rear and the front is good too but needs a bit of preload maybe. I think these are the sweet spot I was looking for, it gives me some droop about 60-70%, more up front with no preload. It still crawls well with these and it still feels like slow motion in some situations just like stock does. The orange color is very close to the red so you may need to look closely.

I did a quick donut test in 2nd on polished concrete and these springs are too soft for bashing, so much body roll that it actually rolls. I had run it on some wet grass and it was able to bash around without much worry of rolling over on the stock springs.

Oh and the stock springs are silver and red, I forget the order. I tried to find the spring rates to know how they compare but I wasn't able to find anything.
EDIT: I finally found the spring rate for the stock red springs, 4.0


I looks a lot better at ride height now.

I picked up both sets of springs and prefer the purple (2.3) ones. I have the spring collars on the front cranked down to just over half way and the backs to around half. That is with 2 4s batteries and the body on. That puts the shocks at 50%ride height. It has great looking body movement instead of the stiff bouncy look. I guess to note I have no rocks here in Michigan and currently I'm walking snowmobile tracks and areas iv cleared with my tractor. Even when the snow is gone I have wood trails and sand.

[Druxus]

Was noticing that reverse was faster then forward. Looked up the esc calibration in the manual and it made a huge difference in my forward speed capabilities.

Might be worth checking to see if your getting everything when you pull the trigger, and it's free!

[HumboldtEF]

I also played around with the throttle travel, ended up need 105% travel to get full throttle, reverse was good at 100% though it will be different for every rig. Hold it at full throttle and adjust the travel up/down while listening to the pitch of the motor.

EDIT: This was not with the stock radio BTW but it might be possible.

[UZI4U]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I worked up a 3D printed bracket to repurpose one of the battery trays up front. I came up with this for a dedicated steering servo battery location (not the main battery location). It mounts to the bottom of the front crossmember. All of the stock battery trays are identical after the end pieces are removed.

Do you have the 3D file or is it online to where I can print it out?

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by UZI4U

Do you have the 3D file or is it online to where I can print it out?

Ah shoot I did mean to link it. It is on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5141653

[HumboldtEF]

I made this upside down work stand a while back but forgot to post it up.



These stands insert into the body post holes and provide a flat surface so you can flip the rig over without it rocking around.

The STL is here if you want to print these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5719569

This works for the Jeep but I dont know about the Honcho. If you have a Honcho you could check the distance between the top of these body posts and the top of the inner fenders. For the Jeep its about 11-12mm.

[AK KRAWLER]

Pretty sweet idea Humboldt!