Questions, suggestions and contact information

[Locked Up]

Yes.

We have some prototypes in hand but are weighing options based on some new techniques we have available.

Hoping for something this year.

[Kaler]

Awesome! Will definitely be picking up a set.

[Alexander_0_1]

Was holding my breath for a Vaterra ascender slipper eliminator, but I passed out, so now I've decided to cross my fingers instead...and this time I won't sustain a blow to the head from a coffee table that I swear knows kung fu when nobody else is around.


I have to old handle and tips, to keep myself from grabbing the wrong driver, I've just wrapped the tips in different colour shrink wrap. The shrink wrap also helps me not scrap the anodized finish off of any parts that might be in a tight area.

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by Alexander_0_1

Was holding my breath for a Vaterra ascender slipper eliminator, but I passed out, so now I've decided to cross my fingers instead...and this time I won't sustain a blow to the head from a coffee table that I swear knows kung fu when nobody else is around.


I have to old handle and tips, to keep myself from grabbing the wrong driver, I've just wrapped the tips in different colour shrink wrap. The shrink wrap also helps me not scrap the anodized finish off of any parts that might be in a tight area.

We have an Ascender in house and are developing ideas.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

We have an Ascender in house and are developing ideas.

Come up with a underdrive gear set attached to a FI spool and you will be my hero.

6 lug wheel options using Incision hubs would be great too. Shrinking the center section of the wheel due to the smaller hub bolt pattern makes a lot of the wheels look better (see A08 vs SLW versions of various wheels).

Also, more .185 SLW hubs please.

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by svt923

Come up with a underdrive gear set attached to a FI spool and you will be my hero.

6 lug wheel options using Incision hubs would be great too. Shrinking the center section of the wheel due to the smaller hub bolt pattern makes a lot of the wheels look better (see A08 vs SLW versions of various wheels).

Also, more .185 SLW hubs please.

Have not looked into it but I know we are planning some drivetrain components.


Incision wheels are not likely anytime soon because adding a new lug pattern really requires a full redesign to do it right. Since we just got through that with the A08 we will probably be working on non wheel items for a while while those continue to roll out.

So, why not just run the AO8?
8lug = tons which if you are running a 44" plus tire (1:1) you better have at a minimum.

185s are in process.

[Alexander_0_1]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

We have an Ascender in house and are developing ideas.

Oh! Oh! Oh! Mister cotter Mister cotter can you make 'em for these:

Robinson Racing Products - Products and Pricing - Vaterra Twin Hammers

I couldn't find the page with the individual spur, but its the 1558 spur, second option on the page scrolling down.

Robinson Racing Products - Products and Pricing - AXIAL AX10 SCORPION

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by Alexander_0_1

Oh! Oh! Oh! Mister cotter Mister cotter can you make 'em for these:

Robinson Racing Products - Products and Pricing - Vaterra Twin Hammers

I couldn't find the page with the individual spur, but its the 1558 spur, second option on the page scrolling down.

Robinson Racing Products - Products and Pricing - AXIAL AX10 SCORPION

Do you mean make a slipper eliminator for the Vaterra transmission?

[Alexander_0_1]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

Do you mean make a slipper eliminator for the Vaterra transmission?

Yes sir, but for those RRP spurs.

I have that RRP 1558, with your slipper eliminator on my BMRC IF/IR suspension wraith (wrexo), and I happen to think that the same spur will work on my ascender.
I thought I lucked out, and tried to fit the slipper eliminator for the wraith/scx10 onto the trans input shaft (VTR202317), but the keyed area of the slipper eliminator is slightly larger than the keyed area on the trans input shaft.

Thanks for your time.

[GTSLOW]

So I failed to read the disclaimer when ordered the M2x1 hardware. I can not get these screws to start without feeling like I'm going to strip something. My issue is where on earth do I find M2 nuts to clean the threads up on? Also if this is such an issue why no include one? Not sure where to go from here?

[Locked Up]

Sorry you are having issues!

We don't include the nuts because not everyone has issues and lots of people have m2 nuts from other kits, etc.

So in order to keep the cost down for everyone we don't include them.


We sell them here:
M2 Nut (20)


You can probably also find them at a local hardware store or hobby shop.

[GTSLOW]

Looking around I almost thought I could find some it seems I have stuff smaller (I know smaller than M2..) or larger.

Any idea of a common hardware store that would have them?

God they are beautiful though....


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Locked Up]

Lady on the phone at True Value in Radcliff said they have M2 Hex nuts.
She sounded unsure of what she was saying so I take zero responsibility.


508 N Dixie Blvd
(270) 351-3134
Closing soon: 6:00 PM



What wheels are those?
Just curious.

[josh6575]

I have a set of the devil drive shafts. They are giving me much trouble keeping them together. The pins keep falling out even after thread locking before initial installation. I have them installed on SCX10ii axles. Are these not intended for this?

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by josh6575

I have a set of the devil drive shafts. They are giving me much trouble keeping them together. The pins keep falling out even after thread locking before initial installation. I have them installed on SCX10ii axles. Are these not intended for this?

They are made for crawlers, yes.

Are you giving the loc-tite 24 hours to cure?

If so, is the set screw making full contact?
If not, maybe the threads are not clean all the way through or there is debris in there and the screw is stopping early.

If the threads are good maybe we need to look at driveline angles or something that could be causing vibration (causing the screw to back out)?

... or stronger loctite?


Best bet would be to submit a ticket to using the link in the first post.
that will get you to Chuck and he is our tech guru.

[night rider]

Do the pro CMS kit fit a TSS SCXHR Chassis?

Sent fra min Sony ZX via Tapatalk

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by night rider

Do the pro CMS kit fit a TSS SCXHR Chassis?

Sent fra min Sony ZX via Tapatalk

The kit is made to fit a stock chassis.
Once you abandon the stock chassis it's going to depend on a lot of various factors and I really couldn't tell you what it would take to fit that. Sorry.

[DarthBacon101]

question for the masters of scale hardware...

would you recommend the use of m2x6 acorn nuts on these wheels? where the acorn nut itself would be holding the wheel together? I'm not sure of the size of the hardware that came with them, but I am sure it's m2, either 6 or 7mm



I just wanted them to look a little more scale..

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by DarthBacon101

question for the masters of scale hardware...

would you recommend the use of m2x6 acorn nuts on these wheels? where the acorn nut itself would be holding the wheel together? I'm not sure of the size of the hardware that came with them, but I am sure it's m2, either 6 or 7mm

I just wanted them to look a little more scale..

It somewhat depends on the mounting.
If you have crazy thick foams, or the wheel/tire combo makes for a really stressful clamp, then the acorns could be over stressed.

BUT... you can always assemble everything with your regular screws first. Then, one at a time, replace them with the acorns. That way they are really only "holding" and not drawing everything together.

[BigSki]

Just a quick for good service when I placed a small order last week. Payment confirmation and shipping/tracking info were provided very quickly, the part ( from a brand that I hadn't heard of before) worked very well and was a great value.