like many of you ive done some minor mods such as wheel weight,no springs ,weight on the servo etc. now with my course up running i can do some test and tune sessions.

by just taking the shock springs off it made the truck alot better. i then added some weight to the front servo.that also made he truck better.ive opted for now to keep my electronics on the chassis as i think it makes the truck look ugly.

next step is i took some small rubber bands ,cut them in half and then tied one to each rear shock. left the front with no springs or rubber bands. also reversed the rear tires. the truck made it up a spot i couldn't with the slightly modded version. the rubber bands are a bit to tight for my liking though. i would like them to be a bit softer.

just wanted to share some of my findings.

are the rubberbands just to keep the axle from drooping too fast or too much?

to fast. but they are limiting articulation.

I was running full no springs for a minute.

then i used the rubber bands. first i ran them from top to bottom of the shock just as twisted has. But as hee said it seemed to "tight"

so i then moved the rubberbands. i mounted the rubber bands over the top of the shock and the chassis ends, and the bottom of the rubber bands on the upper link mount.

this seemed to work much better. But i found something else I like more.

Every one has been runnin the mirco t rear shocks all around. but they still rider higher than mine, and my LHS had no shocks in stock this weekend.

SO SickAX gave me a damn good idear.

i kept my stock shocks, and bought a set of mirco t springs.

you cannot usethem as a "sprung" set up on the stock shocks because the shock body is just a hair shorter than the springs.

so what i did was wrap the top od the spring around the ball ends both top and bottom. This way the springs are holding the shock closed like the rubber bands.

but the springs seem to work a lot bettetr. they are smoother, lighter and look better too.

ill post pics after lunch"thumbsup"

it's after lunch
:D

Return Springs for Full Droop
 

I've ditched the rubber bands for 1/2 inch return springs from Harbor Freight. Seems to work so far, enough spring for some return with slower articulation.

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC_0004.jpg
http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...DSC_0007-1.jpg
http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC_0005.jpg

LOL.. look's too big hihi.
I was looking for smoller then that i found out inside deadbolt key spring
is so micro size it is almost fit inside shock but so little too big...Dan..:shock:

LOL we are all doing the same thing in different ways.


SO

here are the pics. Im using soft micro T springs up front, and medium in the ass.

both the top and bottom of the springs are coiled up around the shock mounts. this way the springs pull/hold the shocks togeather."thumbsup"
http://reeffugium.com/gallery/files/...rocrawler1.jpg
http://reeffugium.com/gallery/files/...crocrawler.jpg
http://reeffugium.com/gallery/files/...rocrawler2.jpg

i have found this to be far superior to rubberbands, even though they both execute the same concept.

the springs seem to bind less and let everything move like silk over them mini rocks.

(plus it looks fawkin hot):mrgreen:

3 seconds over a stove burner caused theses little things to become warped and very brittle eventually causing one to break. I wouldn't recommend this"thumbsup"

I have had zero problems with mine.The heat definetly needs to be controlled and consistant..I did use a mapp torch so the heat was instant and consistant To keep the springs from warping you need to have a solid rod stuck thru the middle of them as you heat them(1/8th welding rod worked well).If they do warp on you you can manipulate them over the rod by hand or with heat to get them straight.

I guess I could have elaborated a little more on the process in my post.:idea:

we all will have different results and opinions, thats what makes this so fun......trial and error"thumbsup"

I will say, I have noticed a little sagging over time, but I expected that.8)

i just bought a full set of micro t springs from the LHS.

when this stock chassis rides sprung, the COG is stupid high.

softer spring do not help the COG that much, maybe a lil bit.

But i wouldnt risk any springs when they are so abundant.

Plus, we're all tryin to improve the COG.

im getting there :flipoff:
http://reeffugium.com/gallery/files/...asskicker3.jpg
http://reeffugium.com/gallery/files/...asskicker5.jpg

My Micro T rear spring sets showed up today. I have done what bob did with looping them over the ball end and shock cap to hold it in droop. then extend when it flexes. I have noticed huge improvements on inclines and declines, plus no longer get the chassis not straightening issue.

I am using the white (soft) on all 4 corners.

hell yea!! it makes a huge difference.

if you move the top shock mount down to the electronic tray screw holes, it gets even better!!!

then you can also do away w/ the stupid teenyweenie bodyclips, and use the old shock holes in the chassis as your mountig points.

My shocks have been relocated and inverted since the day I got it!

I do need to remove the casing on the esc, shrink wrap it and lower the body some still.

I never use the stock body pins. the shell stays on with out them and comes on and off easy.

My Mods in photo form

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8411/compn.jpg

That Rules dude!!!

did you just use heat to bend mini t links, or manpower?

They have to be heated red hot to bend....manpower will only get you a broken rod, they are pretty brittle when cold

Anyone changing out the wheel nuts? I just received my Micro yesterday and immediately noticed all four wheels where wobbling loose. Three of them tightened down decent but one nut was stripped out of the box and won't tighten.

Mini-T aluminum nuts work on these right?

Mini is too big. I swiped them out of my Micro Baja. Those will work"thumbsup"

Micro nuts or Xmod nuts or Mini-Z nuts will all work