i just trimmed off all the small lugs on my rear tires.

the good - in tight off camber corners it grips but by just slightly wiggling the steering you can get it to slide just enough to make tight corners.

the bad- side hilling isn't as good as it was with the stock tread.

Just got mine the other day, already lowered, weighted, lightened it:). Haven't seen anyone post how I lowered mine- could I be the first?:-P. I left the stock springs on there, took a small pick and started threading the spring around the shock cap at each end of the shock. Kept threading until I had about 75% droop, but you could adjust it to put the ride height wherever you want. I drilled out the lower hole to mount the top of the shock slightly lower too.

And also I relocated the body mounts to the little hole directly below them. Had to trim down the top of the frame a bit.

Heatshrinking the esc turned out pretty slick too. It fits perfectly in a piece of 3/4""thumbsup"

if you do the same thing with Micro T springs it works even better.

like i have posted 1 page back.

Check out what i did with the body and how i have it mounted. I did away with those dinky PIA lil clips the first day, and now the posts are gone too

Thanks for all of the tips guys, they have really helped.

mods done so far:

Losi 220 mah nimh battery
battery reloacted to front axle
battery mounting parts taken off
spur gear cover removed
tire foams removed
Losi Mini-T white springs up front coiled over the rod end
Losi Mini-T red springs out back coiled over the rod end


These alone make the truck drive so much better. The removal of the tire foam is my favorite mod so far.

what does taking the spur gear cover off do?
and the tire foams have been my favorite mod as well!

It loses a little weight up top. The part isn't too heavy in itself, but I took it off anyway since there aren't any wires running around my spur gear. Taking that off with any other useless plastic makes a difference.

Cheap 7.2 Volt Power
 

What's Up, Just checking out the MODS.
I Moved the stock NIMH Pack to the rear axle then I added 2 more cells wired to the front stock battery location. Whew! this thing has got some Get up and go now. I added weight to the front wheels. Cut 3 rings out of the springs with droop. Seems to be doing O.K. I need to get the sloppy flex out of the rear. That is what makes it flip over not COG when going straight up. Like a 3 link Set-UP. :?::?: Great MODS GUYS!!!

when i got mine, it only lasted the first battery pack before mods.
it crawls much better with all the mods, i know i can make it better though

well it was stage 3 of mods last night. leghtened it just a little bit in the rear. still using stock drive shaft(not modded). took the foams out and made bent links for it.clocked the from axle. also put in some washers in the hex of the wheel for a bit more width.made it so when you turn your tires they just barely touch the upper links or non at all(if you do this i would recommend putting a little lock tite on the pin so you dont loose it because the wheel is what really held the pin in it) .it crawls really good now, better then before.fixed my tranny binding. mine was actually in the slipper. the slipper plate closest to the tranny was rubbing on the housing. there is places where i can only conquer with the aid of the lipo. wheel speed sometimes is a must. but with all these little mods, i was actually impressed by it. ill post some pics some time today to show what i did. pretty basic stuff.

-took off the battery mount and esc mount
-esc out of case relocated on the servo
-battery in the back(nihm and lipo) i actually prefer the nihm
-lowered the body
-relocated shocks to electronics mount holes
-trimmed off the existing shock mounts
-droop with dt springs
-wheel weight rings all the way around, as well as 4 winds of solder in the front wheels
-mirrored the tranny
updates
-foams removed, made a big dif in traction. i didnt think it would be an improvement, but it was. as light as these things are no need to worry,unless storing it
-clocked the front axle
-bent links front and rear. the stockers got hung up on everything
-lengthened in the rear. used lower links as uppers. had to notch them out in the center so the shocks dont rub on em
-found some tiny washers that fit in the hex of the wheel. 2 per wheel. is a noticeable difference in width but its not much.
-tweaked my springs a little bit more. helped out with the flex in it.
future mods

highroller 220mah packs

can we get some pictures of all these mods step by step? i mean, it's great to say them all...and to show pictures of hte finished product....but step by step tutorials are where it's at! i should be picking up one tomorrow from a buddy too!

X2 on that. I'm clueless on how to do these mods. I just got min yesterday and I have to say it's pretty fun to drive. I bought a "rock pile" when I got it so I had something to crawl on. Would love to get the COG down, and get it to sit lower but have no idea how to do this stuff.

It's my first Hobby Grade RC, all I have had was cheap RCs and a few Nylints (which still work), so I am wanting to get this so it's even better than stock.

guys, its as simple as removing some bolts. It can't get much easier than that. try searching this section and read some threads.

which tie rods and ball ends could be used to build new links (would bend them)? Something from Losi Mini-T?

I used losi micro t rod ends and 2-56 threaded rod...make sure you buy 2 bags of rod ends cause theres only 14 to a bag and 2 of them are lil short ones that are about worth less so get 2 bags"thumbsup"

Finally got a micro crawler the other day. Boy this thing is fun. Tonight i'm gonna pull the foam out and put some BB's in the tires. Only mod so far it taking the springs off the shocks, made it 10 times better just then! May take the useless plastic parts off as well???? Very fun little carwler, now I got to get a mini to go along with the micro!

Micro servo mod
 

I found that the servo wire was binding with the front shock body. I run my micro crawler without springs. So what I did is remove the lower servo housing and with my Dremel and a small carbide ball tool, cut a slot in bottom of the lower housing to pass the servo plug and wire thru.

This set up works the best. There is no more binding between the wire and shock body or the wire and the top shock mount nut on the frame.

I hope this helps you guys out.



LEADHEAD

Great looking mods, gonna try some myself!
 

I really like how you lengthened and lowered the truck, curious to know the results of how if affected the performance and how you liked it. I picked up some parts today to similarly lengthen the 4 links, driveshafts etc. Just curious, what was the issue with the yokes poping off that the fuel tubing addressed? Also was wondering where you sourced the springs, been looking around and doesn't seem like they sell them separately, did you just have them from before. Nice looking truck for sure, I'll post some picks of my own after lengthening to compare. Thanks!"thumbsup"

Got a part #? i cant seem to find them

mini-t end cups: LOSB1049

-- sorry, wrong model, not sure about the micro-t, mini-t would work as well.

Thanks for posting all this info, very usefull stuff here that make a real difference. I've done pretty much all the ones that only need to use the hex key.

One thing I noticed. When mirroring the tranny, you obviously have to reverse the throttle channel on your transmitter. Well, this is the wrong way to do it. I noticed that there's more throttle steps on one way than the other (ESC). So in order to get the same throttle resolution going forward, you have to invert (resolder) the motor wires.

One more thing... excuse my ignorance (first post!), but how and why do you clock the front axle. Thanks

Marco

One more thing... excuse my ignorance (first post!), but how and why do you clock the front axle. Thanks

Marco[/QUOTE]

you clock your axle so that when you turn it doesn't exert wasted power into the ground. what i mean is if your axle is pointed towards the ground, your loosing turning radius and it has to lift up the rc too. you can clock your axle via lower links or upper links. ideally you want you axle parralel with the ground or a tad more.(pointed up slightly) to get the most from your steering