RCCrawler Forums

DSchulten88 · 12-21-2010, 04:11 PM

Anyone know if they're available at the moment?

I'm having trouble building a BWD wedge chassis.. Just seems like everything's too stiff and it doesn't seem like it articulates very well, I've kinda given up on it.

Soo before I just buy another TMC, I was gonna see if I could get a hold of a pinch chassis, I gotta buy another set of BWD bead locks too.

Otherwise I might buy a SMC, but I'd really rather wait for the extended version to come out and buy a third LMRC...

Unless someone has some build advice for a BWD chassis cause the one I started to build last night just doesn't seem like it is gonna flex correctly at all... Seems soooo stiff, and it's taken a lot of effort to make everything fit correctly. Oh, and the chassis plates are definitely NOT identical.

murderface · 12-21-2010, 04:38 PM

pm sven thats how you get a pinch

dockman · 12-21-2010, 04:58 PM

First thing I would do if I was you is contact Don at BWD, I am sure he will help you out. As for the stiffness most people need to take a small amount of material off of the lower links ball cups as they can interfere with the flexing.

In this thread a few posts down there is a pic of how to trim the lower link ball cups. It is post 12 to be exact.

pilmat Build Log

ba450crf · 12-21-2010, 07:14 PM

I had the same problem, i e mailed don and he responded back very fast! I ended up using a dremel and easing out some material in the ball cups, which made a huge difference. Before I did it it wouldn't even sag or move unless I pushed on the car it was soo stiff. now it articulates quite well.

BEELZEBOB · 12-22-2010, 04:40 PM

i sat there for an hour w/ mine like WTF?

LOL

I just used a razor blade and cut the ball openings.

id say i took 1mm -2mm off each opening.

The mini t and BWD ends seem to cover too much of the ball stud to move freely.

take a little off and it frees everything up.

billet works · 12-24-2010, 11:34 PM

This should help. Given the narrow nature of the Wedge chassis...the mini t and included rod ends like a little filing in order to be the smoothest possible. Here's a few pics to show what my rig looks like (although my links are sleeved now). On the axle side, I used a round file and removed some material on the link side of the rod end (looks cupped). On the skid end of the link, I used a flat file and tapered it so the end of the rod end doesn't hit the bull stud base. Many ways to do this mod to the rod ends...all are easy (my 13 year old nephew did his in a matter of a couple of minutes). As you can see, I removed quite a bit of material. My rod ends still hold great and have never popped off.

BW

12-21-2010, 04:11 PM	#1
DSchulten88 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Littleton Posts: 142	Looking for a pinch chassis... Or advice on a BWD chassis Anyone know if they're available at the moment? I'm having trouble building a BWD wedge chassis.. Just seems like everything's too stiff and it doesn't seem like it articulates very well, I've kinda given up on it. Soo before I just buy another TMC, I was gonna see if I could get a hold of a pinch chassis, I gotta buy another set of BWD bead locks too. Otherwise I might buy a SMC, but I'd really rather wait for the extended version to come out and buy a third LMRC... Unless someone has some build advice for a BWD chassis cause the one I started to build last night just doesn't seem like it is gonna flex correctly at all... Seems soooo stiff, and it's taken a lot of effort to make everything fit correctly. Oh, and the chassis plates are definitely NOT identical.

12-21-2010, 04:58 PM	#3
dockman Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Newport, South Wales Posts: 257	First thing I would do if I was you is contact Don at BWD, I am sure he will help you out. As for the stiffness most people need to take a small amount of material off of the lower links ball cups as they can interfere with the flexing. In this thread a few posts down there is a pic of how to trim the lower link ball cups. It is post 12 to be exact. pilmat Build Log Last edited by dockman; 12-21-2010 at 05:06 PM.

12-24-2010, 11:34 PM	#6
billet works I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Earth Posts: 2,488	This should help. Given the narrow nature of the Wedge chassis...the mini t and included rod ends like a little filing in order to be the smoothest possible. Here's a few pics to show what my rig looks like (although my links are sleeved now). On the axle side, I used a round file and removed some material on the link side of the rod end (looks cupped). On the skid end of the link, I used a flat file and tapered it so the end of the rod end doesn't hit the bull stud base. Many ways to do this mod to the rod ends...all are easy (my 13 year old nephew did his in a matter of a couple of minutes). As you can see, I removed quite a bit of material. My rod ends still hold great and have never popped off. BW Attached Images

12-21-2010, 04:38 PM	#2
murderface Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Grand Rapids Posts: 918	pm sven thats how you get a pinch

12-21-2010, 07:14 PM	#4
ba450crf Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: meridian Posts: 71	I had the same problem, i e mailed don and he responded back very fast! I ended up using a dremel and easing out some material in the ball cups, which made a huge difference. Before I did it it wouldn't even sag or move unless I pushed on the car it was soo stiff. now it articulates quite well.

12-22-2010, 04:40 PM	#5
BEELZEBOB I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: By a lake in Thornton Posts: 2,218	i sat there for an hour w/ mine like WTF? LOL I just used a razor blade and cut the ball openings. id say i took 1mm -2mm off each opening. The mini t and BWD ends seem to cover too much of the ball stud to move freely. take a little off and it frees everything up.

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Thread: Looking for a pinch chassis... Or advice on a BWD chassis