anybody have any idea how to make longer shocks?

[rcdave13]

I really need some longer shocks for my LMC project. 1/2"-3/4" longer would be good. I could glue 2 shock bodies together but I don't know how to make the shafts. If you guys have any ideas or are intrested let me know. If there's enough interest maybe Hot Racing could make some.

[willy1106]

i have been tryin for a few weeks now. if you glue 2 tubes 2gether a good tumble could break them. i have been trying to use aluminum tube and the original top cap. i've rolled the base of the tube i cut to make a lip to hold in the shaft. for the shaft i was some steel rod and threaded on both ends. the top of the shaft i cut a small plug out of styrine that will fit inside the shock tube and thread the shatft in and drop it in the tube. the bottom of the shaft should thread into the original shock base. both the tube and shaft need to be cut exactly the same at all 4 corners. thats one of the problems i'm having. the other is the shocks have a bit of slop in them ( side to side movement). i'm gonna keep tryin but so far i'm not real happy with them. remember with suspension screws are better. glue on a crawler that will likely take a tumble is likely to break.

[JeepinOR]

I quickly tried to make a shock tube out of some aluminum tubing. With a dremel and drill, I was able to notch the top and drill a tiny hole for the top of the shock mount. That was easy. But I didn't know how to finish the bottom so that the shaft didn't just pull out. This is where Willy's rolling of the bottom would've helped, though I'm not quite sure how I'd do that with my available tools...

Good luck! Keep us updated you guys.

[surfanor]

Are you looking for the entire shock to scale longer including travel? If you only need the body and not necessarily the shaft to be longer, I imagine you could use the same technique many of us employ to extend the drive shafts.

Get the right diameter aluminum tubing and cut to desired length, take the cap from the top of the shock, glue the shock body inside the tubing, and fix the cap back on the top (might be the most interesting part). Bingo you have an extended body shock and it has a cool aluminum look. Obviously if you wanna extend the shafts as well things become more difficult.

[rcdave13]

Willy what steel rod are you using for the shafts and where did you get it? Did it come threaded or did you thread it?
What did yoy use to roll the end of the aluminum?
I have not even tried because I have not found a good shaft material.
My truck will have limiting straps so I don't need the shock to hold the axle but I would still like the shaft to be contained and I definatly don't want more play or slop than the stock ones wich I think have too much.

[getbent]

If you have any old servos laying around, try the long screws that hold the servo case together. I had that thought the other day when I was disassembling a servo, the screws are long with a smooth length, then threaded on the ends, and the screw head would work as the piston inside the shock. I havent tried it yet, but maybe it would help you in your quest. Just a thought.

[willy1106]

i'll look at the packages after work and write up how i made mine

[willy1106]

ok i could find a label but i went to a local hobby store and picked up some metal rod. its commonly used on helis and planes to move the wing flaps. i found some that was about 1.5 to 2 mm . while your there you can pick up a die the will work with the rod you pick up so you can thread the ends.

as for shaping the aluminum tube . all those tools were picked up at a hardware store or your own garage. you can use aluminum or brass they are both soft metals. you need to cut all you tubes to length to start. i use a bit of masking tape wrapped around one end of the tube. using a cordless slide the tape end in the chuck and snug it up( not to tight or you will crush the tube) i had a piece of plate steel with a nice dent in it that is smooth. you can use any smooth metal surface for this. spin the drill and start to work the end of the tube closed but not all the way. be careful not to bend the tube this will take some time so be patient. if the metal surface your using is not smooth you will sand instead work the metal. dont be afraid to use alittle heat if nessicary. after you get the disired closure take the tape off and notch the top and drill a hole so the top cap fits. since i dont have a fancy lathe i use a handy cordless drill. this is the basics. i may try to turn down some larger plastic for the insert in the tube to try to clean up the slop.

but that will have to wait. i am currently working on a MICRO MOA. yes i said MICRO MOA. i already have a working prototype on a single axle all i have to do is mirror it as soon as my supplies com in the mail next week. but thats a whole nother thread

[rcdave13]

Originally Posted by getbent

If you have any old servos laying around, try the long screws that hold the servo case together. I had that thought the other day when I was disassembling a servo, the screws are long with a smooth length, then threaded on the ends, and the screw head would work as the piston inside the shock. I havent tried it yet, but maybe it would help you in your quest. Just a thought.

Good idea, servo screws were 2nd on my list of what to use, they are a little too large in diameter. I only thought of them cause I had a few in my screw collection.

Willy thanks for the info, I planned on rolling the ends too and when I started building them an easier, maybe better solution came to me. Can you post a pic of the rolled end I would like to see how it turned out? In my next post I will show how I made mine.

[rcdave13]

Here's how I made longer shocks with much less slop. I used
Links for small helicopter
5/32" aluminum tube
.125" styrene rod
I cut the aluminum tube to length, wrapped it with masking tape, put it in a drill and used a file to remove material so the original LMC shock cap will fit.(I think this was the hardest part) Then I slotted the top and rounded the bottom with a Dremel. Next I drilled a .060" hole in the center of the styrene rod and cut it to length, 1/8" for the top and 3/16" for the bottom.(this was also hard because I did it by eye and I made about 20 of them to get 8 good ones)
To make the shaft I cut half the thread off 1 end and cut the other end where I needed it. Then enlarged the hole in the original LMC shock end and screwed the shaft in. Super glue the small styrene peice on the top of the shaft and the longer peice of styrene to the bottom of the shock body.
I'm not sure what I will do about springs, I stretched the original LMC shock springs out and that works good but I might make a clamp to adjust it. The result is is a smooth shock with alot less slop and better looks that can be made to any length up to 3". The set I made are 2.6" long and have .75" of travel.

[willy1106]

i'll see if i can find any of those i made. i threw most of them out cause i was unhappy with them. if not i'll make a new one. i set that project aside for an MOA i been working on.