Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Losi Micro-Rock Crawler
Loading

Notices


Thread: RidgeBack TMC Build

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-23-2011, 06:26 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default RidgeBack TMC Build

EDIT:
Other people have got this chassis to work, I was not able to do so... this chassis takes some thinking that I could not come up with, me personally there are better chassis's out there then this one, however I have read on here success stories from others... which appears to boil down to does the chassis work for "you" or not, as it did not work for me but it might for you.

However the Blade TMC is still a very good chassis, but the RidgeBack TMC just is not, imo.
EDIT:



The setup;

Tekin B1R esc
BWD Beadlock rims
BWD Wheel Wideners
MiClaw tires
HS-65MG servo
Predator 90t motor
DSM receiver
Custom cut upper and lower links
56t aluminum spur dear
Brass pinion


More pictures as I progress, and as I get things that I have ordered in...

[My previous Build]
Blade TMC:
Losi Micro Crawler Blade TMC build

Last edited by Evilinside; 10-24-2011 at 08:28 PM.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 05-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #2
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

As I am unable to find directions for this build, this is trial and error, so let's begin.

Deburr, check;
Click the image to open in full size.

First off, not all screws are the same length. Two are longer than the rest.
Also, not all the round plastic tubes are the same length, one is longer than the rest.
Click the image to open in full size.

I'll start with the front, just to piece this all together. Now, it would appear the longer tube and one of the longer screws provides the front.
Click the image to open in full size.

I noticed that one of the side pieces here the screw slipped through with ease and the other side piece it needed to be threaded through. So I opted to slide it through the first piece and allow the threaded side to be at the end to hold everything together.
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:15 PM   #3
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Ok, now let's see about the main side panels. Four of the shorter screws, and only the shorter tubes remain, so that's an easy deduction, four of those too!

First side panel;
Click the image to open in full size.

Second side panel;
Click the image to open in full size.

Both on and just tight enough to be held together but still plenty of wiggle room incase I need it;
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:34 PM   #4
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

I'll throw on the windshield frame for good measure...
Click the image to open in full size.



Let's look at the tail.
Click the image to open in full size.



The tail is as the front, one panel the screw fits right through, while the other panel it has to be threaded through, so start by sliding the screw through the panel that does not need to be threaded.
Click the image to open in full size.

It appears that the longer screw is for the tail, but there is no more longer tubes... because the "ridgebacks" actually end up on either side of the tube and a longer tube would not fit with the extra length added by the spines.
Click the image to open in full size.

So the screw passes through one spine, into the tube, then the center spine goes around the tube, finally the screw passes through the other spine before threading into the panel.
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:37 PM   #5
Quarry Creeper
 
BLADE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Utah
Posts: 460
Default

Sorry about the directions I have the pics taken just havent gone through them and got them organized
so thanks for the pics and info, cant wait to see more.

Blade
BLADE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:42 PM   #6
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Ok, putting the tail on the main frame.

First side;
Click the image to open in full size.


And last side;
Click the image to open in full size.


Snug them up enough to hold but still enough in case I need the wiggle room;
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:45 PM   #7
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLADE View Post
Sorry about the directions I have the pics taken just havent gone through them and got them organized
so thanks for the pics and info, cant wait to see more.

Blade
No worries.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:48 PM   #8
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

The center rollcage.
Click the image to open in full size.

It would seem that if the motor is going to be rearward mounted, instead of forward mounted like the Blade TMC, then the center roll cage will need the transmission hump on the "passenger side" of the frame.
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 07:59 PM   #9
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: houston
Posts: 736
Default

working on mine too, keep the pics coming!
getbent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:08 PM   #10
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

The final two pieces;
Click the image to open in full size.

The rear roll cage is symmetrical, so doesn't matter how you throw that on;
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now putting the pines in to the rear roll cage, matching notch to notch;
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


That turned out impossible for me to do, I simply could not get the notch to notch lined up properly. So, as I stated about leaving wiggle room, this is a good example of needing that...

I had to pull the rear roll cage off and line up the roof spines notch to notch and place them together this way;
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:08 PM   #11
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by getbent View Post
working on mine too, keep the pics coming!
Sweet! Part of this build will hopefully be one of your 90t motors! I want to order two of them from ya!
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:26 PM   #12
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Ok, last piece;
Click the image to open in full size.

I found that putting this thing on upside down and after it is on, rotating it right side up, was much easier;
Click the image to open in full size.


New discovery! Putting this last little end piece on first, is just a good idea, helps make things easier;
Click the image to open in full size.


New new discorvery! The spines are easiest when worked on from REAR to front. So assemble the rear first and work your way the oppisite direction I did....
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:30 PM   #13
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

See those little hooks at the end there?
Click the image to open in full size.

Well those hooks need to hook into the front windshield frame, while it can still be done with just taking the window frame off and attaching it, the issue is the downward angle of those hooks, so the holes need to be lifted up into them... kinda weird but the hold really well once on.
Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:38 PM   #14
Quarry Creeper
 
BLADE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Utah
Posts: 460
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilinside View Post
No worries.
I got a couple other pics up on the build check them out to see what I did
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...70#post3106970

Blade
BLADE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 08:40 PM   #15
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

And the final product;

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 09:15 PM   #16
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

What should be arriving this week in the mail;

ESC
RX
MiClaw tires
Wheel Wideners
New Shocks
Brass pinion set
Wheel weights
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 10:39 PM   #17
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas
Posts: 288
Default

looks like a structural schematic for a beetle. can we get a weight on that chassis plz? BTW good job chinese puzzling that one together.
Elastokinematic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 12:05 AM   #18
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

I do have a scale incoming this week.

I have found out... I am NO GOOD at link bending...

Not sure I can grasp that art.


Link bending is NOT for me. /slamfaceintowall

Blew through all my rods... no idea how the hell the damn aluminum housing is supposed to go on bent rods either...

I'm at a lose for the links...
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 12:47 AM   #19
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLADE View Post
I got a couple other pics up on the build check them out to see what I did
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...70#post3106970

Blade
If I can request something;

Some pre-made bent links that can be purchased at length categories, like 5" wheelbase links, 5.25", 4.75", etc.

I'm really having a hard time making my own links, I'm either totally oblivious to something I'm missing, or I just don't have the right tools.

I bought the make your own kit from your site, but failed...
Evilinside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 02:25 AM   #20
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: KC
Posts: 97
Default

Link bending is quite easy if you have the available tools for it, rod, some pliers, a torch and a large rod to form the bend on. You dont even need to bend the tube housing, Check out Getbent's Eclipse links, he uses the joint cups and the rod is screwed in until before the apex of the bend, maybe way before the apex. then the straight tube housing covers the bend, presto "Freudian-straight-bent-links"

P.S. i believe you dont want to cook the rod you're heating up. You want to heat it to the point you notice the metal changing colors, you dont really want to glow it up cuz the rod may get brittle when it becomes cool
ChiefWigman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com