Mastah Kyler's Chevy Silverado

[Mastah Kyler]

so i just got my links today (thanks lordprimate!) i did a very crappy job at bending them but whatever. i need a little help:
1. how will i mount the body?
2. why am i getting low articulation?

mods completed:
custom links
bwd wheel weights
lipo
flipped tranny

future mods:
toggle-able 4ws
predator 90t bb motor
wheels/tires

on to the goods!

[Smokem]

have you tried moving where your shocks are mounted?

you could mount them where the esc and battery tray mounts are
or you could do inboard shocks. these would help with articulation,
but there may be better ways im unaware of.

[Mastah Kyler]

and what do you mean by inboard shocks?

[coryshad]

Mind sharing where you found the body? I drive a nbs Silverado and have been looking for a body to make a scale replica. I'd definitely say relocate shocks for better articulation, careful though with those long links you could easily give yourself too much flex. you just have to get creative with body mounting, I'd recommend Velcro and perhaps using styrene to adapt.

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[BerticusPryme]

the low articulation is mostly due to the length of the lnks and shock placement. What is the wb on your rig? I am going to guess 5+ inches? as fas as inboarding goes make a bracket that goes from each side and amount the shocks in the middle of it. Basicly a rectangle with two holes in the middle. it wll help some but ay give you to much. As for mounting the body make some tubes in the inside of the truck body with styrene that will fit over the body post and use it to hold that way.

[Mastah Kyler]

installed my new staples driveshafts today


and for the shocks and brackets do you mean like this?

[BerticusPryme]

not quite like this. I took my battery box and cut it in half length wise and drilled 2 holes in it and mounted it just below the stock shock placement front and back. If you look in the picture you can see a little bit better.

[Mastah Kyler]

oh i see can you take a closer pic please?

[BerticusPryme]

np. when I get home fromw ork I will be doing some work on all my crawlers and I will see what I can do man. I think I even have a few spare battery holders and will show you how I did it.

[Mastah Kyler]

Perfect everyone likes a new tutorial!

[BerticusPryme]

sorry for the wait been a busy day. you will only need this piece.

cut in half like this

Then drill 2 holes in each one close to the center or wherever you would like to place the shocks. mount them back on the chassis in the holes below the original shock mounts. point them toward the axles at a slight angle if you tighten them all the way down or you cna leave them a little loose and the plate will mov eup and down some while giving the frame some bracing. When you allow it to move up and down like that it gives a little droop with a little more flex. only problem is it can give to much flex if you are not careful.

[rik]

This is going to look killer.

Have you decided how you are goin to mount the body?

[Mastah Kyler]

Originally Posted by rik

This is going to look killer.

Have you decided how you are goin to mount the body?

I have absolutely NO idea how I will mount it

[Mastah Kyler]

so after completing this mod i still wasnt getting the articulation that i wanted. i had a hunch that if i put that mount where the shocks were originally mounted it would. and yes it would but that leaves me with 3 problems
1. i need to find washers small enough to fit the tiny screws
2. i need to find a way to keep the new mount from swaying
3. the shocks just barley clip the servo. is there any way that i could put something over the springs? if not, HR internals it is! but thats more $ :(

[Mastah Kyler]

sorry for the triple post but i have found a solution to number one. i took a plastic antenna rod and cut tiny spacers out of it and for number 2, it does not sway as bad and may be solved if i find a solution to number 3 lol.

P.S. just over 1 and a half inches of articulation!

[BerticusPryme]

Just tighten the bolts really well and it won't move. well it may move some. I left mine in another build to sway a little so it gave some extra flex. If your shocks are barely hitting the servo I would suggest a few things.
1. possibly upgrade to a metal gear servo that is slighty smaller.
2. back out the ball studs holding the bottom of the shocks about 2-3 turns. If that helps the put a tiny washer or spacer in there.
3. reduce the length of your links on the front just a bit.

[Lordprimate]

Originally Posted by Mastah Kyler

sorry for the triple post but i have found a solution to number one. i took a plastic antenna rod and cut tiny spacers out of it and for number 2, it does not sway as bad and may be solved if i find a solution to number 3 lol.

P.S. just over 1 and a half inches of articulation!

I was just about to send you another pm over at MTF to see if you had got a handle on that! Nice work!!

Originally Posted by BerticusPryme

Just tighten the bolts really well and it won't move. well it may move some. I left mine in another build to sway a little so it gave some extra flex. If your shocks are barely hitting the servo I would suggest a few things.
1. possibly upgrade to a metal gear servo that is slighty smaller.
2. back out the ball studs holding the bottom of the shocks about 2-3 turns. If that helps the put a tiny washer or spacer in there.
3. reduce the length of your links on the front just a bit.

1. +1
2. depending on if i understood Kyler correctly, putting washer there might bring the interference back. you want to make the ball studs stick out less.
3. +1. It will either be shortening the lower links or lengthening the top links.

It is like clocking a diff.. You are leveling out the whole assembly, when your bottom links are to long the ball studs point down, Into the links..

There should be enough thread on the top links to make them longer, or enough space to make the lower ones shorter... I kinda built a lil bit of le-way into those so you can make those adjustments as you see fit!!


MORE PICTURES!!!!

[BerticusPryme]

I would say lengthen the top and shorten the bottom. reason for using the washers behind the bottom mount ball studs on the shocks is the links may be to long and putting the suspension in a bind.

[Mastah Kyler]

I don't want to reduce the links anymore or the body would look funny. I might try and extent the top links a bit. I want a new servo but that's not on the priority list. I will put in a washer as a quick fix. Pictures to come tonight

[Mastah Kyler]

sorry for the delay been super busy lately! but i have had time to do a few things. i made a new mount for the front shocks. got some styrene tubing and made a little cage for electronics and body mount. also painted the body matte black. so i have a couple questions. what do i use to put separate styrene pieces together? and where can i get the magnets to mount the body?


1.5 inches of articulation!