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Old 05-04-2012, 06:26 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Default Nuked PCB

Well... I nuked my stock ESC/RX today.

I finally got to wiring and just finished initial connections for a test run. Plugged it in, turned down the TH to stop the motor from spinning, started playing with the steering and moved the setup a bit then poof!



I don't feel too bad, the board was a wreck when I got it. It looked like it was dipped in too many coats of liquid tape then soldered poorly before during and afterwards. I almost didn't think I'd get it going again but it cleaned up ok.

Something probably arced or shorted out but either way I nuked the little piece connected to what would be the orange wire running to the motor. Top left block in the pic, you can see where it has a couple burn marks.

Anybody know if i can find a replacement piece and what it is to maybe just fix the board instead of buying another? I'm really bummed out today. I was nearly finished with my build but now that the board is toast I'm dead in the water. I may just have to order an aftermarket ESC and RX, but I was hoping not to spend the cash and just run the stock setup for now.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:53 PM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lexington
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Default Re: Nuked PCB

They PCBs are cheap and you have to be a really good solderer to fix chips that small. You can find a used ESC or crawler if you look around online enough.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:48 AM   #3
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Default Re: Nuked PCB

You probably got a bridge between the positive from the batt and the minus of the motor OR a bridge between the plus and miuns of the motor wires themselves, the 2-nd thing is more obvious because the upper FET burned out (FET-MOSSFET).I fried one esc myself and those 2 chips were fried,so i made myself some kind of a research and i found FET-s w/ closer spec's.I personaly used a
FDS8958A

N+P MOSFET 30V 7A/-5A 1,6W SO8 DUAL



It HAS to be N+P,as you can see i used one thats rated 7A,the stock losi one is i think 8A so it's not that much of a difference.They cost about 1-2$
then you have to carefully desolder the burned up chip and solder a new one.Its also a good idea to get some solder wick and do your battery and motor connections all over again this time make them parallel to each other,also try to make it as clean as posible.For the chip unsoldering,try to solder all the FET-s legs togheter and then heat them up,carefully lifting the chup from one side CAUTION do not lift it fully or you risc of cracking your PCB.And then do that from the other side aswell.Then clean the pcb w/ some solder wick and make sure all the solder is gone,It is optional to clean after the solder wick w/ some spirit before you flux them and put some solder on them.After you put solder on them try to make the same w/ the new chip,flux and then put solder on the legs.The next step is kinda hart,get a pair of twezers and try to place the chip on the solder pads on your PCB then all you have to do is run the soldering iron trough all the legs and solder the FET-s legs to the pads.FOR the chip direction,you can see how to solder on the chip by looking the dot thats on the FET-itself.And btw try to solder the motor wire to the soldering pad of the motor wire itself that means to the 2 middle of all four legs from the side.






Pffff grammar


Hope it helps,now get in your sneakers and run to the nearest electrical shop to buy some components
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:10 AM   #4
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Default Re: Nuked PCB

As rapttor said, all you need is good soldering skills and a good soldering iron.
You can even stack 2 or 3 layers of fets
I used to do this mod several times on my mini-z monster PCB.
Check this video:
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:08 AM   #5
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Posts: 40
Default Re: Nuked PCB

Awesome! Thanks guys. Time for a trip to the electronics store to buy some FETS. Any good online stores selling what I need?
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