Jims 64 Chevy Beater Build!

[Fungi]

As promised I am starting my 64 Chevy Beater build. It's a scaler build.

The axles and transmission are MCRC, but the tires are Trekker. I'm trying to avoid widening the width using spacers because although they widen the spacing, they don't widen the turning pivots, which requires widening the wheel openings even more on the body. Most scale builds just stick a body too high on top of the frame. I want the body to be as low as possible. This is the first attempt, and there is much to change, but I thought it was ready to share. The wheelbase is a little long, the transmission is a bit too low, and the leafs are too low on the frame. There is an alignment issue with the frame rails being 1/8" too far apart for the leaf attachments I made for the axles. I have some ideas to fix that. The tires rub the leafs at extreme turning. I think I can fix these issues.

The frame rails, leafs, and axle spacers are 1/8" laser cut delrin. The shackles are 1/16" laser cut delrin. The hardware is 2-56 machine screws with socket heads.

Questions or comments are welcome!

And now for the pics.

[TwentyF4rth]

first look i thought it was made out of metal its so smooth the way its cut
will you be offering kits eventually it really looks serious

[Fungi]

For now I'm having a blast trying ideas and figuring out what is possible. I do have an interest in kits, but I have to finish my new shop first. I've got a lot more ideas to try. I've been collecting parts and supplies for over a year now.

[8695Beaters]

I've had a 64 stepside body and an SMC chassis sitting around for a bout a year now. This project has given me an idea of what to do with them Looks good, can't wait to see how yours turns out!

[chevy55]

Off to a great start!
The frame looks killer what kind of laser cutter setup was used?
Any more progress yet?

[Fungi]

Hi chevy55!

You are my hero btw! I used a ULS M300 to cut the parts. Delrin is a very interesting material to laser. A little more pricy than polycarbonate, but cleaner cuts for sure!

Question... I designed the chassis to hold the body level. So there is more articulation room in the front compared to the rear. I think I will just keep it as is, but I wonder if I should lift the rear a bit so articulation is similar front and rear.

Thanks!

[Midlife Crisis]

That is an awesome body and looks to fit up well.....nice work!

[Fungi]

Thanks MC!

I got a chance to work on it yesterday. I made a lot of changes that may not be apparent at first. I lifted the transmission a lot to increase the ground clearance. I moved the tranny farther forward as well. I fixed all of the alignment issues, so the leafs are directly in line with the frame rails now. The frame rails are now 1.125" apart, and there are plates to attach the transmission to the frame rails, as the factory mounts are 1.135" apart. The turning is full range with stock unwidened axles and factory wheels. The articulation is not a lot, but hey, it's a scale leaf sprung chassis. I am now ready to add stabilization bars to the axles, shocks, and body mounting points. I need to find a better way to cut the Plastruct square tubing. My little miter box is not making it. If the ends are not perfectly square when cut it puts all sorts of twists to the rails. Still researching this. Now for the pictures. The aluminum cylinder is 1" tall.

[Fungi]

Update time!

Sorry for the kitchen table photos. :P

I accomplished a lot really... I painted the Plastruct tubing flat black. I added traction bars. The diffs were torque twisting the leafs. It's completely solved the issue. I lengthened the rear shaft in a different way. I will add info here as well. I was saving the wheels for later, but they were on it so... they are stock sanded and painted rims, intended to look rusted from scratches in the rocks. I used the popular rust kit. Losi wheel weights, tires glued without foams. I like the look of the Bogger tires on the truck! I have some ideas I still need to do to them. Next I will be working on the steering servo and shocks.

I also added a sneak peak at another project in the works. ;)











Cut the Trekker shaft as shown.



Drill into the ends slightly using a 5/32 drill. I did it by hand to have more control. About 1/8" is good. The drill only cuts the "threads" from inside the shaft.



Cut a section of 5/32 styrene tubing and superglue it on both ends. Super easy and it looks better.



I will start on my 34 Ford Rat Crawler when this one is done.

[MGCrawler]

That body looks good on that awesome chassis bud Nice work so far!

[kmoore]

Did I miss where the body came from?? I have a 65 long bed I need this body!! Awesome work by the way!

[Fungi]

Thanks for the comments!
It's a Revell Kit #7613, 1/25th scale 1964 Chevy Fleetside Pickup. I scored it on ebay for $11 bucks. Haven't seen one since the first purchase though.

[TwentyF4rth]

man that rust on the wheels look so real and you picked the right tire for the model !

[Fungi]

Small update. I finished assembling the front body, roof, and hood of the model. I have sketched out where I plan to cut the quarter panels.

[Fungi]

Got the shock mounts added to the frame. I like the front, but not set on the rear. I made the rear lower and more angled. It works fine no binding.

[Mastah Kyler]

where did you get all the hardware for this? love the shock mounts!

[cobrajet94]

build looks sick! i just got the crawlerx chassis for mine i put a diecast powerwagon cab and a 18 gauge steel flatbed in back

[MGCrawler]

Nice looking chassis and build

[CMcGregor]

Nice build! I just got my 4.5ex chassis and im building a 65 chevy

[JatoTheRipper]

That's looking awesome so far! I love how good the chassis looks!

Somebody asked if you were going to make kits. Do you currently have an RC business?

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