My stock chassis MCRC build thread.

[gbean]

Well not so much of a build thread, but I finished all my planned mods in the last couple days.
Results are pretty stellar for a stock chassis I think.

Mod list:
Trekker stub axles and hexes
Hot Racing 56T spur
Hot Racing Alum. Trans case.
DDT Predator 90T motor
Hitec HS65-MG servo (required sanding the servo mounts to increase space between.)
Danally Wide offset wheel mod w/ MiClaws
M2 stainless nylock nuts on wheels and slipper.

All suspension links are 2/56 threaded rod with mini-T ball cups, threaded rod covered with 1/8" aluminum tubing. Lengths are 4.7CM uppers and 4.9MM lowers (1cm longer than stock links) mini-T ball cups are trimmed to allow more flex.

Lengthened drive shafts with 9/32" alum/. tube. Tube is cut to 2.2cm.

Custom made shock mounts utilize the stock battery tray and thin aluminum sheet. Shocks are mounted inboard and layed down more for more flex.

Zippy 2S 350mah lipos. Turnigy 2s/3s 800MA balance/peak charger.

Clearance at full flex, and full steering lock:

Poseur:

Me flex you long time!

Any questions or suggestions are welcome.
I'll try and find a good spot to shoot a video shortly.

[kakachille]

lol that word gets around
and what did you use to mount your shocks like that?

[gbean]

Where did all the posts go? Weird.

I have a DX3S Tx on the way. Got it for $56 on fleabay!!

[Mastah Kyler]

this thing has stupid flex (stupid as in ridiculously awesome) what part of norcal are you in?

[gbean]

Sonoma County

[gbean]

Anyone running a stock ESC/Rx and a hitec HS-65MG servo having heat issues?
My steering servo seems less powerful than it was when new (two weeks ago) and gets pretty hot, along with the ESC.
BEC voltage is remaining constant at 5.020 volts, and everything moves smoothly with no binding....
I wonder if my servo is bad?

[gbean]

My DX3S came, albeit with a broken antenna and an undisclosed broken steering rate knob...
I fixed both. The st. rate knob i had to drill out and used a .7" length of 2.5mm hex wrench to insert in the knob, replacing the ultra flimsy plastic hex originally used.
The antenna I was able to super glue, but it was then fixed at a 90 degrees bend, so i swapped it with the stock losi controller. Same exact part.

The DX3S provides much more precise control over the stock tx.
Pretty good for just over $50. (*edit I asked the seller about the steering rate knob, and he was nice and refunded me $20. Nice - DX3S for $30)

[gbean]

Curious as to why so many posts here from other users were deleted?


I had some questions from someone that I thought would be helpful to the community so I will post them and my answers here in the next post.

[gbean]

Originally Posted by iheartoldskool
Hi there, really impressed with your build based around the stock micro crawler chassis!

Was looking to build something similar as i'm on a budget, hope you don't mind if i use yours as a guide for my own?

Also wanted to ask a couple of questions about it if i can?

1. Love the way you've utilised the standard parts as a kinda brace between the plates and using a piece of thin aluminium (U.K. spelling!). Wanted to ask though, how is the piece of aluminium fixed in place?

2. The lengths you've given for the links, i know you say they're 1cm over stock. But are you measuring tip to tip, or centre of ball cup to centre of ball cup?

3. Also the alu tube you've used to lengthen the drive shafts, can you please confirm how long you made the tubing?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Alright here goes:
1. The thin aluminum for the shock mounts is primered for aircraft use, but I sanded it lightly and used loctite (or other quality brand) superglue. Hold like a rock and has taken some big hits so far.

2. The given lengths for the links are from center cup to center cup. The 1/8" aluminum tube is measured to fit after assembling the links to the desired length then marking how long to cut the needed tube. If you are going to bend the lower links you have to make them slightly longer then bend the whole assemble link at once. I used a piece of thin cardboard to mock-up a curve to simulate the bend I was looking for then straightened the cardboard to measure the length while straight. I remember it being around 0.3 cm longer than the front lower links.

3. The drive shaft extension tube is 2.2CM, you could even go 2.0CM and be fine. I think mine are a hair long when the axle is stuffed to one direction it gets really close to binding. I wanted to make them as long as possible to allow me to lengthen the wheelbase a little more if desired.

ALSO: I HIGHLY recommend getting the Miclaw tires from RCmart.com, and doing the Danally wide wheel mod.
I run 50-70 BBs in the front tires with no foam and 30 BBs in the also with no foam. When you do this you will need a stronger servo, and I highly recommend the Hitec HS65MG. Gets warm, but doesnt seem to fade as badly as cheaper chinese made servos.
Also, get a rewound motor. Makes light years of difference. And wont burn up with a 2S LiPo....

[iheartoldskool]

This may seem like a silly question...but what size of BB's do you use?

Also, i'm wondering how a rig like this would be affected maybe using the shorter micro t shocks mounted slightly lower again as well as in-board? Might lower the COG a little more?

[gbean]

Originally Posted by iheartoldskool

This may seem like a silly question...but what size of BB's do you use?

Also, i'm wondering how a rig like this would be affected maybe using the shorter micro t shocks mounted slightly lower again as well as in-board? Might lower the COG a little more?

I dont think the shocks mounted any lower or using shorter shocks is going to help all that much.
My COG is already pretty darn low. (it can climb up a 60 degree+ incline on a micro fiber couch cushion)
I need someone to hold a camera for me.....

The BB's are 4.5mm steel shot, copper coated. They are called "Copperhead" BB's here in the US.

[dieselmudder]

very impressive. really like the creativity in the shouck mounts. where are you mounting the battery? is that what the rubber bands on the rear axle are for?

[gbean]

Originally Posted by dieselmudder

very impressive. really like the creativity in the shouck mounts. where are you mounting the battery? is that what the rubber bands on the rear axle are for?

Yup, rubber band holds the battery on the rear axle.
I'm thinking about adding more sets of holes outboard of the current mounts to limit flex, and also add some higher and lower holes to adjust ride height.
I wasn't a believer at first, but there is such a think as too much flex.

[LuvMyTJ]

Originally Posted by gbean

My DX3S came, albeit with a broken antenna and an undisclosed broken steering rate knob...
I fixed both. The st. rate knob i had to drill out and used a .7" length of 2.5mm hex wrench to insert in the knob, replacing the ultra flimsy plastic hex originally used.
The antenna I was able to super glue, but it was then fixed at a 90 degrees bend, so i swapped it with the stock losi controller. Same exact part.

The DX3S provides much more precise control over the stock tx.
Pretty good for just over $50. (*edit I asked the seller about the steering rate knob, and he was nice and refunded me $20. Nice - DX3S for $30)

Are you using Spektrum with the stock ESC?

[gbean]

Yes. The stock rx/esc combo is DSM.

[gbean]

Went out and actually ran this thing the other day.
I decided to limit the front articulation and placed the front shocks back in the stock upper location.
To much flex made it roll to easily.

[Intashu]

most people strive for more articulation, you have to hinder yours. thats badass to have reached the limit.

[gbean]

Yeah I discovered quickly the limits of this thing and got bored with it. spending more time with the wraith now.

[Sh0rtBus]

So time for a rebuild, then?

[gbean]

Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus

So time for a rebuild, then?

Sorry for the long delay....


I've gotten 102% involved (sadly?) with the wraith and hopefully a 1.9er soon.

This crawler is being sold to Puddin here on RCC.