Jim's Specter! O.o

[JKred]

Looks killer man, really well designed.

[jprock]

Looks GREAT!!!

[Fungi]

Primer drying slowly...

[T_Tank]

That thing is looking amazing man o.o

[Slambaam]

Cant wait to get a fungi infection from you.....

[BADASSPONY]

That looks absolutely awesome!!!!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[smuggl1n]

When will the be ready to purchase?

[Fungi]

I'm still working on issues with part finishing. The part as a prototype taught me many things. The body mount tabs need to be thicker and slightly larger. The upper link mounts need to be moved farther forward in front and farther back in the rear. A couple other minor tweaks... I also want to try adding some alternate shock mount holes. The main chassis is done and we are working on skins!

The part from Objet printed on an Eden was very fragile. It snapped apart by me simply bending the part in my hands... I got the 3DSystems ProJet 3500 HDMax and parts printed using even the normal material are very strong... This week they come to change it over to the ABS material! Here is an image of a full bottle of beer (well over a pound) on top of the crawler.

[Mastah Kyler]

A thing of beauty

[angelicgundam90]

Looks great! Do u have a set a miqlaws we can see mounted on those rims? Also did u go with a larger diameter rim to avoid glueing the tire or did u just glue them?

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[Demodude]

I like that you changed the entire look of the Trail Trekker. Both chassis I would be interested in, Great job!
1

[smuggl1n]

Update? I want one!!!!!

[smuggl1n]

? :(

[Fungi]

Workin' on it...

[smuggl1n]

I feel better now!

[Fungi]

Last Saturday I finally figured out the problem with the printer. It is making great looking parts now! My next hurdle is to find the most economical method of finishing the parts. There are currently 5 steps to finishing a part.

1. Put in 70c oven to remove bulk wax. Removing one at a time hand patting each part with a paper towel.
2. Place in 70c ultrasonic cleaner or crock-pot filled with either mineral oil or water based cleaning solution.
3. Rinse with hot water, then wash with dish soap, dry with paper towel.
4. Dye black (or other color) in 70c RIT dye bath for 5 minutes.
5. Seal with polyurethane, currently 50% Varathane 50% water brushed on.

It takes hours for a relatively small quantity. In a nutshell how does one remove a lot of wax when every method involves dipping the parts in hot liquid that immediately forms a film on top that covers all parts when removed. Sigh...

The parts ready for dying.


See the film of wax on top?


Anything not flat black is wax.


I am making progress and I have posted my issues on a chemical process engineering forum. I'm trying to find solutions to new and interesting problems. There are no off the shelf solutions that I know about.

[BADASSPONY]

Might be kinda messy but what about skimming the surface with a paper towel wrapped screen or something along that line to remove the wax. Or after the dying process using a tumbler with a light abrasive/polishing that wont hurt the plastic but will remove the wax.

[rapttor]

The tumbler with abrasive will also make the surface of the wheels more shiny ,cause they look kinda rought(?) now.They still look awesome tho

[Fumbles]

Hell, I don't care - they look great ! I'll take a set of wheels for my micro as is. I'll tumble them in my brass tumbler if need be but I'm going to use epoxy paint in the end so i'll seal them with a smooth surface afterwards.

[Demodude]

nice meth lab you have there.....lol