tips,tricks and mods

[TOYUTAH]

ok guys i just picked up one of these little guys and it is a blast! what all are you guys doing to get some better performance out them? it seems like its almost too light, at least on the axles so i planned on adding weight to the wheels and moving the battery on top of the servo. also i think it sits a little too high so i might tear the shocks apart and put some limiters in there. post up your tips and tricks or thoughts

[FDAapproved]

The spacers at the top of the springs just pull right out. You don't need to disassemble anything.

It lowered the ride height a bit.

[TOYUTAH]

Originally Posted by FDAapproved

The spacers at the top of the springs just pull right out. You don't need to disassemble anything.

It lowered the ride height a bit.

i was meaning to KEEP it lower, those pacers will still let the suspension extend all the way out, where limiters will hold the truck lower to the ground so its more stable

[snakeman]

With the spacers removed, I got more torque twist. I'm going to relocate the electronics, and try and reposition the shocks to get a lower ride heigth w/ the spacers installed. Probably change oil too.

If that doesn't work, I'll 4 link the rear to eliminate the twist. Drives me nuts!

[RCMFMaxxMan]

all you need to do is move the shocks' upper mounting points from the shock mount to the corners of the chassis where the upper plate attaches. this will lower it a bit. Even further you can move the shocks' lower mounting points to the lower link mounts which is lower on the axle. You will have a lower ride, lower extension (relative to the chassis), but you will retain the articulation, so if you want to limit that you'll still need something. but if you do it this way you can use compression limiters rather than extension which are alot easier to install and remove and what not.

[FDAapproved]

Originally Posted by TOYUTAH

i was meaning to KEEP it lower, those pacers will still let the suspension extend all the way out, where limiters will hold the truck lower to the ground so its more stable

What do you use to limit the shock? What is the benefit?

Thanks!

I'm new.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Originally Posted by FDAapproved

What do you use to limit the shock? What is the benefit?

Thanks!

I'm new.

Basically you can use anything that fits around the shock shaft, inside or outside the shock. Generally people use fuel tubing because it is cheap, easy to cut to size quickly, and it can squash a bit so that it works kind of like a bump stop in the 1:1 world. Inside the shock (below the piston) the limiter will keep the shock from extending all the way out of the shock body which shortens the over all length of the shock and lessens the travel of the shock. This lowers the rig and limits articulation/suspension travel. Outside the shock (sitting on top of the spring retainer cup), the limiter only limits how far the shock can compress but does not change the length of the shock, so it only limits articulation/suspension travel. I hope this helps you out.

[FDAapproved]

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

Basically you can use anything that fits around the shock shaft, inside or outside the shock. Generally people use fuel tubing because it is cheap, easy to cut to size quickly, and it can squash a bit so that it works kind of like a bump stop in the 1:1 world. Inside the shock (below the piston) the limiter will keep the shock from extending all the way out of the shock body which shortens the over all length of the shock and lessens the travel of the shock. This lowers the rig and limits articulation/suspension travel. Outside the shock (sitting on top of the spring retainer cup), the limiter only limits how far the shock can compress but does not change the length of the shock, so it only limits articulation/suspension travel. I hope this helps you out.

I only kind of understand what you are talking about. Do you have any pictures of this? I think it would be a big help to match up a visual with the description.

Again, thanks to everyone for being helpful.

[the other 2.2 guy]

i removed the battery tray, put the battery on the rear axel with a velcro strap held by the rear plate. put the electronics on the chassis with servo tape. and 12 oz of weight with the sticky wheels weights. 1 1/2 per back wheels almost double that to the front and some more on the axel and servo. that helped out a lot. i agree with some fuel tube to limit the travel about a 1/8". also lowered the body down about a 1/2 inch. it works a lot better.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Originally Posted by the other 2.2 guy

i removed the battery tray, put the battery on the rear axel with a velcro strap held by the rear plate. put the electronics on the chassis with servo tape. and 12 oz of weight with the sticky wheels weights. 1 1/2 per back wheels almost double that to the front and some more on the axel and servo. that helped out a lot. i agree with some fuel tube to limit the travel about a 1/8". also lowered the body down about a 1/2 inch. it works a lot better.

I would suggest moving that battery forward, or moving the weight added to the rear to the front. It is going to benefit you alot to have most of your weight as far forward as you can.

Originally Posted by FDAapproved

I only kind of understand what you are talking about. Do you have any pictures of this? I think it would be a big help to match up a visual with the description.

Again, thanks to everyone for being helpful.

I mocked this up for you but used a metal collar just because it was there. usually fuel tubing will work better.

this is what a compression limiter looks like. Note it is on the outside of the body and limits how much the shaft can compress into the body:


This is an extension limiter. Note it will be on the inside of the body, below the piston, once the shaft is pushed through. It will limit how much the shaft can extend outside of the body:


hope this clears things up and should also help you understand how both limit articulation but the extension spacer will also lower the ride because the shock will not be able to extend to full length.

[Ax-hole]

How to fix tork twist.

Make a rear 4 link plate and some stainless steel links.





Use firm losi mini t springs (stock spring shown far right), remove small black spacer from inside shock body and replace with small spring or fuel tubing.



Add lipo batt and wheel wieghts.



Much better!

[kikcaffine]

Stupid question, but whats a 4-link for those of us who dont know? Any pictures of said 4-link?

[upnover1]

Did you triangulate the lowers after you did the 4 link ? If not how is the torque steer ?

[Ax-hole]

A 4 link is a replacement for the stock 3 link the losi comes with, stock has a upper link mount mount on either side of the chassis and one at the axle (thus 3 link mounting points) a 4 link has two on the chassis and two on the axle, 4 link has a seperate link for each side and each end of the links has its own pivot point on each end, instead of the stock one piece y shaped link. I'll post more detailed pics once I get it all back together.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Originally Posted by Ax-hole

A 4 link is a replacement for the stock 3 link the losi comes with, stock has a upper link mount mount on either side of the chassis and one at the axle (thus 3 link mounting points) a 4 link has two on the chassis and two on the axle, 4 link has a seperate link for each side and each end of the links has its own pivot point on each end, instead of the stock one piece y shaped link. I'll post more detailed pics once I get it all back together.

uh actually its called a 3 link because there are 3 links. two lowers and one upper. and a 4 link because there are 4 links. two lowers and two uppers.

[Ax-hole]

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

uh actually its called a 3 link because there are 3 links. two lowers and one upper. and a 4 link because there are 4 links. two lowers and two uppers.

Yup, my bad. but at least it kinda explains what I did. I should know better, lol!

[kikcaffine]

Ah, well that makes sense.

Thanks for the clarification.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Originally Posted by Ax-hole

Yup, my bad. but at least it kinda explains what I did. I should know better, lol!

no problem. just a friendly correction. I think you are the first one to try the four link. how is it fairing for you? not including all the other mods you did, how much difference in driving does the 4 link make?

[Ax-hole]

Haven't been able to try it on the rocks yet but so far testing in the house seems better, chassis doesn't flip to the left anymore under hard throttle and front right tire only lifts on extreme verticals (still gotta add lead to wheels). Changed the design for the upper links a bit, used Axial 45mm posts instead of stainless steel (will de-anodize) Traxxas long rod ends on the frame side and Ax10 rear lockout balls & cups on the axle end.

[Ax-hole]

Originally Posted by upnover1

Did you triangulate the lowers after you did the 4 link ? If not how is the torque steer ?

Nope didn't triangulate and there is zero torque steer.