My only complaint...

[ktmguy]

Is torques twist.. IM a newby to rccrawlers, only have experience with the nylint 1:6 jeep that I had for a year. Have had a revo for a few years now, but this thing is incredible, It really is one of the better bangs for the buck on the market. Would weight help eliminate some of the twist? Crawling this thing in the woods and rocks at my house, a few times when the rear was up against a tight spot, the front would twist and lift one wheel off the ground..Im not familiar enough with this sport to know how to eliminate this, any Ideas? This is a GREAT truck!

[akguanja]

you can compensate by adding a stiffer spring in the rear left shock or adding spring limiters thus causeing the spring to be more stiff.

- tre

[Stormin2u]

Originally Posted by akguanja

you can compensate by adding a stiffer spring in the rear left shock or adding spring limiters thus causeing the spring to be more stiff.

- tre

Hey I see your from Wasilla your really on the map now thanks to your ex Mayor and current Govenor....

[Rich Trujillo]

Originally Posted by akguanja

you can compensate by adding a stiffer spring in the rear left shock or adding spring limiters thus causeing the spring to be more stiff.

- tre

The left rear black spring is stiffer than the silvers on the rest of the MRC. I would suggesting adding a few more clips to increase the preload on that left rear. I've seen some users removing all the clips from the front shocks and adding a couple to the left rear.

[akguanja]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Hey I see your from Wasilla your really on the map now thanks to your ex Mayor and current Govenor....

lol. i hope we were on the maps before that.alaska has been a state for a few years now lmfao. but ya people deffinatly know the name "wasilla" more now. heh. its only 30 mins away from anchorage, where rocky lives

- tre

[8onick]

know Mark Whatley? I did the Alaska Cruiser Trek with him a few years back. amazing country you have up there. I miss my time in Alaska.

[ktmguy]

What is said here makes sense, however by stiffening up the left rear, it would then articulate less on that side because of the stiffness, correct?

[Desolas]

While increasing spring rate will change that side's stiffness, changing the preload does not increase the spring rate. Having a stiffer spring does make it resist twisting that direction; but that benefits the performance of the suspension.

[RockAddict75]

KTMGUY,
Try flipping your motor/trans/skidplate 180 degrees. This helped eliminate SOME of the torque twist this little rig has. Also thicker fluid in the left rear helps. By flipping the trans you also put the weight bias of the motor and gearbox forward. I put two thick, one thin pre-load spacer on each rear shock to stiffen up the ass-end. Also add a little MORE weight to the right front wheel than the left. This will help combat the twist in a steep climb. Lastly drop your ride height a little(5-10mm), you can do this by putting limiters inside the shocks, or moving your upper shockmounts. These mods have virtually eliminated the twist in my MRC. Hope this helps

http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/q...albumview=grid

[ktmguy]

Thanks, Great info.. The shock work I can handle, But not sure im far enough along to handle flipping things 180 degrees.. Any pics of this? Would be very helpful.. The stiffer fluid and spacers int he left rear, and slightly more weight in the right front, sounds easy enough though!

[RockAddict75]

No pics of the actual process, but it is easier than it sounds.

1- disconnect your front & rear driveshafts above the yoke.
(the little phillips screws w/ nylock nuts on the reverse side)
2- remove the 8 caphead screws that hold the links/skidplate to the chassis' side plates.
3- rotate the entire assembly 180, so that the motor is up front.
4- re-install the lower links and skid to the stock mounting holes.
5- re-connect the driveshafts (I used a bit of locktite on the nuts, the screws don't seem to get much of a bite into the nylock part of the nut)

This puts the weight bias of the motor/tranny forward slightly. It may not seem like much to some, but as we all know, all the little "tweaks" add up to better performance. For some reason that I CAN'T explain, this mod helps smooths out the dreaded twist. Good Luck

[RockAddict75]

I forgot to add, If you didn't already know. When you do this flip mod, your throttle will be reversed. Simply flip the throttle reversing switch on your radio. You're ready for B'ness

[Just Zach]

If you limit your shocks internally and get the link geometry more level then that will reduce some of the torque twist.

[chetly]

Originally Posted by RockAddict75

No pics of the actual process, but it is easier than it sounds.

1- disconnect your front & rear driveshafts above the yoke.
(the little phillips screws w/ nylock nuts on the reverse side)
2- remove the 8 caphead screws that hold the links/skidplate to the chassis' side plates.
3- rotate the entire assembly 180, so that the motor is up front.
4- re-install the lower links and skid to the stock mounting holes.
5- re-connect the driveshafts (I used a bit of locktite on the nuts, the screws don't seem to get much of a bite into the nylock part of the nut)

This puts the weight bias of the motor/tranny forward slightly. It may not seem like much to some, but as we all know, all the little "tweaks" add up to better performance. For some reason that I CAN'T explain, this mod helps smooths out the dreaded twist. Good Luck

What did you do with the receiver? i just picked mine up last night, tried doing the mod, but the gearbox hits the receiver? I figured you have to move it but where are you placing it?

[RockAddict75]

Lose the gearbox cover It's pretty much useless, unless you love dirt or crawl in the catbox. This is assuming that you have moved your ESC/RX down onto your upper links, and gotten rid of the upper plate all together. Otherwise, if you want to keep your stock battery placement, and the upper-deck intact, try moving your reciever to the servo plate on the rear axle.

Here is a link to pictures of my mods, and the little rig in action
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/q...albumview=grid

[chetly]

Thanks, those pictures help out a bit. I plan on keeping the stock battery location for right now. But I like the idea of moving the receiver or esc onto the rear diff plate. Looks like you used lexan and cut out a piece that fits the upper link, I like that. Ill have to look into doing that tonight.

[RockAddict75]

Moving the battery DOWN will make the biggest difference in performance. If you dont wan't to re-configure the stock pack, try a small matchbox size 7.4 lipo. Max Amps, E-flite, Thunder Power, all make suitable packs in the 800mah range that you can velcro/stick lower on the rig(I.E. on the servo, on the upper-links,ect). This, IMO, makes a larger performance gain than any other mod (untill the blue compound claws come out!). By the way, those lipo packs are fairly cheap, E-flites' 860mah 7.4 is around $20.