| | #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ---EAST--TN---
Posts: 355
| I have had a hard time getting the small screws to come out on my MRC. It started with the servo plate on the front. I changed it over to a tlt plate for a full size servo. I had a very hard time geting the small screws out. It seemed like all of my hex drivers would round off, or strip the screw hex. I even had to cut a slot in one with a dremel so that i could remove it with a flat head screwdriver. I thought these screws were 1.5mm, but I saw on here where someone said that those particular screws were standard - and everything else was metric. I dunno? Anyways. I decided I would get a set of better hex drivers to hopefully end my problems. I ordered a set of Bondhus drivers - I thought they were ok, maybe not the best, but pretty good anyway. So I go to remove the tranny screws and the first one is loose and comes out easily. The second one is super tight, and immediatlely rounds off the 1.5mm driver. Is it the screws? The driver? It seems to me like the screws on the MRC are about the worst ive seen. The hex hole is really shallow, and the fit on the driver seems loose. Anybody else having trouble with this? I guess im just gonna get all the screws out however I have to, and replace them with different ones. I know the Bondhus drivers may not be top of the line - but everything I read said that they were good for the price. Any suggestions? |
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| | #2 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 73
| I've had mine pretty much completely apart and yeah those servo plate screws gave me a little trouble. Those were the only ones though. |
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| | #3 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck
Posts: 725
| all the counter sinks are 1.5mm hex, not standard, you need to use a non worn driver ,even a slighty worn driver will give you probs. Oh and dont use a ball end type in the counter sinks, just asking for trouble Last edited by Joat; 01-12-2009 at 01:06 AM. |
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| | #4 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: So-Cal
Posts: 354
| Quuit going to the gym!!! JK |
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| | #5 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Newport News,VA.
Posts: 95
| Quote:
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| | #6 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 114
| I haven't had any issues with stripping screws but I did break a screw in half on my rear servo plate and now I only have the 2 rear screws holding the plate on because I can't get the broken chunk of screw out of the axle... |
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| | #7 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck
Posts: 725
| Quote:
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| | #8 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hiatus..sutiaH
Posts: 1,640
| Once removed just drill out the axle mounts to a 3mm diameter and use that hardware. much easier to work with. |
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| | #9 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 114
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| | #10 |
| I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,328
| One simple trick: BUY GOOD TOOLS. I've never stripped one using the Dynamite Aluminum Red Handles, nor my Ofna Drivers for my Skil driver. |
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| | #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ---EAST--TN---
Posts: 355
| I think the problem is with the screws themselves. Other people are saying that are having the same problem - with lots of different brands of tools. I knew that when I got the Bondhus set it wasnt top of the line, but I thought they had a pretty good reputation. Certainly better than to strip on the first tight screw I tried to take out. |
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| | #12 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck
Posts: 725
| Quote:
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| | #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ---EAST--TN---
Posts: 355
| Ok that makes sense. Thanks for the tip. Something like this one? - I think its the one Binaryterror was talking about, plus it says machined. http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-Machine...3286.m20.l1116 |
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| | #14 |
| Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Hog Eye, Texas
Posts: 558
| best thing to do is redril for 3mm. i will as soon as i get some hardware. in the meanttime, i removed the screws and ran a 2mm tap through the posts. it helped out a lot. |
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| | #15 | ||
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck
Posts: 725
| Quote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-10812-Hex-W...2em118Q2el1247 Quote:
The post and almost all the hardware is alreay 2mm x .4 pitch,, do you mean 3mm x .5 pitch? | ||
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| | #16 |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: SE MI
Posts: 28
| been using these for over 5 years, and havent stripped a hex head out since I bought em (even the TEEEEENY ones) http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Integy-6-Pi...QQcmdZViewItem even had the MRC apart a few times with no issues. Last edited by ken448; 01-13-2009 at 05:15 PM. |
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| | #17 |
| Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Hog Eye, Texas
Posts: 558
| yes joat 3mm x .5. i ran the 2mm tap through and it actually cut a little more. when they are originally assembled they are not tapped. they just thread the hardware right into the plastic. just like the rod ends. |
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| | #18 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: On the Snap on truck
Posts: 725
| Yeah it's better they dont tap it, it gives a better grip on the screw,plus there really no need to ,it also keeps production cost down, I perfer the fine thread they used instead of the coarse thread alot of manufactures use,it's a way better product because of that. |
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