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Old 01-11-2009, 09:58 PM   #1
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Default Screws stripping easily?

I have had a hard time getting the small screws to come out on my MRC. It started with the servo plate on the front. I changed it over to a tlt plate for a full size servo. I had a very hard time geting the small screws out. It seemed like all of my hex drivers would round off, or strip the screw hex. I even had to cut a slot in one with a dremel so that i could remove it with a flat head screwdriver.
I thought these screws were 1.5mm, but I saw on here where someone said that those particular screws were standard - and everything else was metric. I dunno?
Anyways. I decided I would get a set of better hex drivers to hopefully end my problems.
I ordered a set of Bondhus drivers - I thought they were ok, maybe not the best, but pretty good anyway.
So I go to remove the tranny screws and the first one is loose and comes out easily. The second one is super tight, and immediatlely rounds off the 1.5mm driver. Is it the screws? The driver? It seems to me like the screws on the MRC are about the worst ive seen. The hex hole is really shallow, and the fit on the driver seems loose.
Anybody else having trouble with this? I guess im just gonna get all the screws out however I have to, and replace them with different ones. I know the Bondhus drivers may not be top of the line - but everything I read said that they were good for the price.
Any suggestions?
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:22 PM   #2
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I've had mine pretty much completely apart and yeah those servo plate screws gave me a little trouble. Those were the only ones though.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:53 AM   #3
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all the counter sinks are 1.5mm hex, not standard, you need to use a non worn driver ,even a slighty worn driver will give you probs.
Oh and dont use a ball end type in the counter sinks, just asking for trouble

Last edited by Joat; 01-12-2009 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:56 AM   #4
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Quuit going to the gym!!! JK
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joat View Post
all the counter sinks are 1.5mm hex, not standard, you need to use a non worn driver ,even a slighty worn driver will give you probs.
Oh and dont use a ball end type in the counter sinks, just asking for trouble
this is correct .... i wanna know why these little screws are ruining my tools normaly you would strip the srew and not the tool i've bought about 7 or 8 1.5's i have used every thing from craftsman,mac co,snap-on and all your home depot and lowe's brands every one rounded off ..is theri anything better than the best (craftsman,snap-on,mac tool co.)
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:30 AM   #6
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I haven't had any issues with stripping screws but I did break a screw in half on my rear servo plate and now I only have the 2 rear screws holding the plate on because I can't get the broken chunk of screw out of the axle...
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CustomCrawlerZ View Post
this is correct .... i wanna know why these little screws are ruining my tools normaly you would strip the srew and not the tool i've bought about 7 or 8 1.5's i have used every thing from craftsman,mac co,snap-on and all your home depot and lowe's brands every one rounded off ..is theri anything better than the best (craftsman,snap-on,mac tool co.)
So far I have been having good luck with the long ofna hex drivers, I have multiples of snap on, etc, but the screws are eating them up bad, brand new ones dont last more then 3-4 screws before they start getting loose?the worse part is snap on disco'd the hand hex drivers that I have and I seem to having a hard time getting replacement blades.
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:46 AM   #8
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Once removed just drill out the axle mounts to a 3mm diameter and use that hardware. much easier to work with.
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc J33P View Post
Once removed just drill out the axle mounts to a 3mm diameter and use that hardware. much easier to work with.
good call. I might have to do that.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:14 AM   #10
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One simple trick: BUY GOOD TOOLS.

I've never stripped one using the Dynamite Aluminum Red Handles, nor my Ofna Drivers for my Skil driver.
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:54 PM   #11
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I think the problem is with the screws themselves.
Other people are saying that are having the same problem - with lots of different brands of tools.
I knew that when I got the Bondhus set it wasnt top of the line, but I thought they had a pretty good reputation. Certainly better than to strip on the first tight screw I tried to take out.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrover View Post
I think the problem is with the screws themselves.
Other people are saying that are having the same problem - with lots of different brands of tools.
I knew that when I got the Bondhus set it wasnt top of the line, but I thought they had a pretty good reputation. Certainly better than to strip on the first tight screw I tried to take out.
Yes the screws are touchy when it comes to the type of driver used, but mac,snapon,craftsmans etc are all "formed" tip type drivers, where is my ofna set is a "machined" tip type, once you switch to a machined tip your problems will disappear till the tip wears.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:56 PM   #13
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Ok
that makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
Something like this one? - I think its the one Binaryterror was talking about, plus it says machined.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-Machine...3286.m20.l1116
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:13 PM   #14
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best thing to do is redril for 3mm. i will as soon as i get some hardware. in the meanttime, i removed the screws and ran a 2mm tap through the posts. it helped out a lot.
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Old 01-13-2009, 01:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrover View Post
Ok
that makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
Something like this one? - I think its the one Binaryterror was talking about, plus it says machined.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-Machine...3286.m20.l1116
I have this set and love em,the extra length really comes in handy, plus you can flex it a bit to get to those akward ones that are a real PITA, and since ball drivers cause more damage to any type of screws I try to stay away from using them as much as possible
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-10812-Hex-W...2em118Q2el1247
Quote:
Originally Posted by angryone View Post
best thing to do is redril for 3mm. i will as soon as i get some hardware. in the meanttime, i removed the screws and ran a 2mm tap through the posts. it helped out a lot.
Doing that does not leave alot of material left, esp on the 3 posts on the diff housing for the servo plate.
The post and almost all the hardware is alreay 2mm x .4 pitch,, do you mean 3mm x .5 pitch?
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:11 PM   #16
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been using these for over 5 years, and havent stripped a hex head out since I bought em (even the TEEEEENY ones)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Integy-6-Pi...QQcmdZViewItem

even had the MRC apart a few times with no issues.

Last edited by ken448; 01-13-2009 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 01-13-2009, 06:32 PM   #17
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yes joat 3mm x .5. i ran the 2mm tap through and it actually cut a little more. when they are originally assembled they are not tapped. they just thread the hardware right into the plastic. just like the rod ends.
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Old 01-13-2009, 06:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angryone View Post
yes joat 3mm x .5. i ran the 2mm tap through and it actually cut a little more. when they are originally assembled they are not tapped. they just thread the hardware right into the plastic. just like the rod ends.
Yeah it's better they dont tap it, it gives a better grip on the screw,plus there really no need to ,it also keeps production cost down, I perfer the fine thread they used instead of the coarse thread alot of manufactures use,it's a way better product because of that.
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