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Thread: The beginers guide to the MRC.

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Old 08-18-2009, 09:11 PM   #1
Rock Crawler
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Cottontown
Posts: 880
Default The beginers guide to the MRC.

O.K. boys and girls, here is the beginers guide to the MRC. It contains answeres to the most often asked questions. As well as links where modifications can be performed, and to where you can buy parts. I havfe broken this down by section, so lets get to it. This whole thread assumes you have a stock MRC. If you are running upgrade parts, then not all questions, answeres or modifications will apply to you.

Section One.
Body, Body mods, Body mounts
__________________________________________________ ___

Q. My body mounts seem to be getting stuck on everything.
A. Its a real pain in the @$$ isnt it. The MRC's body posts are way longer than they will ever need to be. You can cut them down about 3 or 4 holes if you want.

Q My body clips keep falling out, and I am loosing them, any tips?
A. Sure thing,
Body clips

Q. What bodies are available for the MRC.
A There are a ton, and everyone has their own choice on whats best. Basically anything designed to fit a 1/18th RC truck will work. You can also use some of the "hard bodies". These are basically bodies that are formed out of ABS. As long as it has a wheelbase of between 7.5 to 8 inches you should be good. Before you buy one, be sure to measure your wheelbase by usinga ruler and taking a measurment from the front wheels axle nut to the rear wheels axle nut.

Q. How do I lower my body
A. Punch a set of holes about 1 inch farther up on the body then the stock holes already are

Q. My wheels are rubbing my body.
A. A common problem with crawlers is body rub. The best advice that can be given is decide what you can and are willing to live with and what you arent. If having some rub is o.k. with you then only cut what you have to, if you cannot stand any amount of body rubbing, then start cutting. There are several ways to do this, but the smartest, and best way I have found is to take a fine tip sharpie, while holding the suspensio at full articulatin and marking a line where the tires come in contact with the body. Then, use some lexan scissors to trim away the offending area. A little at a time is better than all at once.

Q. I just got a new body for my MRC, how do I put holes in it, and where at.
A. Before you paint your body do these steps. Put new body over rig, and position where you want it. Then use a fine tip sharpie to mark where the body posts are going to come thru. Then cut the excess lexan away from the body mold. Use either a 1/4 to 3/8ths drill bit, or my personal favorite, a hole punch (the kind used for punching holes in paper) and make your holes. If you choose the drill bit method, then set the body on top of a piece of wood where the hole will be and use slow, light pressure. This will stop any possible cracks, or ripping of the body.

For any and all other questions related to body mounting and painting, please refer to the link below

Section Two.
__________________________________________________ ___

Q. What size motors will fit in the MRC without modification
A. Anything under a 370 size motor will fit the MRC. However, please understand that not all motors are the same size. They may have a bigger, longer can. Or the output shaft may be of a diffrent size. You should be prepared to do some slight modifications to anything you buy. I will try to go over some of the most common motors in the Motor section.

Q. My MRC was running fine, and then all of the sudden it stopped, or It ran fine the other day, I charged the batteries when it died, and now it wont run at all..
A. More than likely the problem you are facing is dead batteries in the TX (radio). For some reason, when the batteries in the radio get low,or dies, it can unbind from the reciever and your rig wont work. So, replace those batteries with either some good regular batteries (energizer, rayovac or duracell's) or a quality set of rechargables (energizer, sanyo..et al), and then re-bind it per your instruction manual.

Q. I have a new servo, and was wondering if I needed a BEC.
A. Yes, and No... Is it absolutely neccissary, no... will it help... yes. A BEC basically allow the servo to get its power straight from the battery instead of from the ESC, which doesnt put as much strain on the ESC. This is a good thing. Alot of people are running the stock ESC with upgraded motors and servos and dont ever have a problem with them. So you may get lucky... but its better to get one and not need one then to have your rig sitting on the shelf for a week while your order comes in.

Q. What is the best motor/esc/random electronic out there.
A. This is one of those personal prefrence questions, there is no clear answer. It depends on what you have the money for, and what you like.

Q. What are some of the most common electronics for the MRC.
A. The Tekin B1R and FXR.
Novak mongoose
Castle Creations mamba line

Q. I ran my MRC through the water, or it slipped into a puddle, or a water tower fell over 200 feet from me and my MRC got wet...
A. Seriously, what did you think was going to happen. Here are some things that may help. Remove the electronics from the rig, open them up and dry up all the water. Spray WD-40 inside, let set for a minute or two, dry it out and let it set overnight. It might work and it might not. Next time, dont get the thing wet.

Q. How do I waterproof my electronics
A. There are alot of diffrent theorys on this, however here is the first thing you should know. Water and electronics do not mix. One tiny pinhole in anything and you could ruin everything. So, do any and all of these with caution.

Water Proofing Electronics

Q. Should I go LiPo.
A. that depends on you. Lipo has alot of advantages and a few dis-advantages. First, if you dont know what it is, then use the search button. They will genearly get you some more wheelspeed, and may let you run a little longer. However, they are also very picky, you need a dedicated charger, and a little know-how. So search and study up. Here is a great place to start, please read post #2

Definitive ESC, MOTOR, and BATTERY threads - RCC's top tech threads!

Q. Can someone help me with wiring my electronics
A. Love too, read here first.

Definitive Radio, Power Wiring, BEC and Servo Threads-- RCC's Top Tech Threads!

Q. Should I get the tekin B1, or the tekin B1R...
A. the B1R of course. The B1 does not have a reverse function.

Q. How long should I charge my stock batteries on the stock charger
A. No more than 4.5 hourse. That charger and the batteries get real hot if left on there for any longer

For any and all other electronics questions please see the below link


Section Three
Motors, and Transmission
__________________________________________________ __________

Q. I see on here that one of the free-mods is to flip the tranny/motor. What does that mean and what will it do for me...
A. It means unbolting the motor/trans from the skid, and turning it around so it faces the other direction. Flipping the motor/tranny mainly is only done for one reason, more room for the electronics to be mounted closer to the front axle, and off of the top of the rig.

Q. How do I loosen/tighten the slipper clutch.
A. the small 1/4inch nut on the transmission. (its under the transmission cover)

Q. I want my MRC to go real fast, more of a rock basher/racer...
A. O.K. then get you a Losi mini slider motor.... they are one of the fastest motors out there.

Q. My new mini slider motor gets real hot, and so does my ESC.
A. Yep, here are some helpfull hints. Either, drop to a 10t pinion gear, or install some heat sinks on your motor. Use the search button there is a ton of information about it on here

Q. Is the Holmes Hobbies Torque Master Mini any good.
A. No, its horrible, worst motor ever made.... OF COURSE ITS GOOD. most of the people on here run one, he is one of the top motor buildiers in crawling and his motors flat out win comps

Q. What are some good motors for the MRC
A. There are several, here are the most common

Holmes Hobbies Torque Master Mini
Losi Mini Slider Motor
Losi Insane 370 motor

There are plenty of others, but these are what I have seen as being used the most

Section 4
__________________________________________________ __________________

Q. One of the tabs on the shock mount on the axle is broken
A. Its a common problem due to over-tightening the screw that holds it in place. Its not a game changer, or anything really to worry about. It will hold just fine. In order to fix it, you need to replace the axle housing. Part number LOSB1405

Q. I am getting this wierd "clicking/popping" sound from my rear axle.
A. You need to replace your ring and pinion and the axle housing.. If that doesnt work shim the left bearing on the ring gear out with a thin washer.

Q. I broke my driveshaft
A. It happens. Replace with a new losi plastic driveshaft, or a GOOD quality part like the MIP's or the punisher shafts. Stay away from integy parts
The best parts to replace with are the MIP driveshafts or the Punisher driveshafts

Q. I lost a pin out of my driveshaft
A. It happens. Replace with a stock pin (and a dab of thread locker), or you can use a body clip/paper clip, nail, or pice of wire.

Q. I was out driving my truck around the yard/rocks/ditch/laundry/over the kids, and now only the front/rear wheels turn, its like I dont have four wheel drive anymore/ or I only have 3 wheel drive now...
A. You have broken a locker. The axles on the MRC have little plastic lockers that mount inside of the ring gear housing, to much torque, and the metal axle shaft spins in the locker , instead of turning with the locker. You need to buy some metal lockers.
There isnt currently a how to thread on replacing them because it is very easy to do, refer to your owners manual for dissassembly and reassembly

Q. Should I upgrade the center locker
A. Yes, tho they dont break often, if you are already doing the front and rear, then you might as well do the center while you are at it.

Q. I cant get my center lockers to fit, or they are very hard to put in
A. Completly normal. They are a tight fit. I used a pair of pliers to squeeze them in. Just be sure you have them lined up correctly before you mash them down.

Last edited by soundcolor; 10-31-2009 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:11 PM   #2
Rock Crawler
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Cottontown
Posts: 880

Section 5
Wheels and tires
__________________________________________________ _____________

Q. Which wheels/tires are best.
A. Well, that depends on what type of crawling you do, and where you live. One thing is for sure, hard, solid steel tires would be better than stock. Make some friends in your area and see what they like.

Q. How much weight should I put in my wheels and tires.
A. If you have the stock servo, then no more than about 2oz each. If you have upgraded to a full size servo, then you can get away with about 8 max. Anymore is way to much. And please, save yourself the trouble... dont put any weight in your rear tires.. If you do, limit it to no more than about 2 to 3 oz.

Q.Are the stock wheels real beadlocks
A. No... they arent. There is a mod you can do to make them real beadlocks.
Four link, lowered, beadlock conversion, losi blues

Q. Oh My God... my new proline FlatIrons rub everything.
A. Yes, they do. They are huge. but they work. If you dont want them to rub, either get some wheel widners or some wider hexes. Diffrent wheels will help here too, just be sure to check the offset

Q. How do I add weight to my wheels
A. There are lots of options for doing this. BB's, and lead weight are the most common solutions.

Q. Should I vent my tires, or do I vent the tires, or wheels, or both
A. Its best to vent the wheels. However, if you are like me, and have weighted your wheels then this may not be an option for you. In that case vent the tires. I like to use a 1/16th drill bit on the wheels and punch 4 holes (one at the top, bottom, and each side of the inside of the wheel). If I am venting the tires, I like to use a 3/32nd bit and punch holes in the same manner as I did on the wheels

Q. What is the diffrence in the tire foams, and which do I need/should I use
A. Tire foam ranges anywhere from a fine tuning mode to a huge improvement. While almost all foams are diffrent one thing they all have in common is their job. They are in there to support the tire. They keep pressure on the tread so that it doesnt just buckle and become useless. Knowing that we can start to understand which foams to use and why. Basically there are 4 diffrent levels of foam, Soft, Medium, Hard and Memory foam. Now, if the tires you are buying have thick sidewalls then you can go with a much softer foam, if your tires have a really thini sidewall then you need a firmer foam. Memory foam can be used either way.

Q. Should I cut my tire foam or not, and how much should I cut
A. Now cutting down the foam is only done for one reason, becaus the tire is to full, and cannot compress enough to conform to the shape of the rocks your crawling over. No matter whether or not you have the softest compound tire with the thinest sidewalls ever and the softest foam ever made, if the tire wont compress, then your foams are too big. So if you are not getting the traction you think you should, then try to cut the foams. I like to trim a little at a time from one side, re-install it and roll it over some books, or other edgy surfaces in my house until I feel it is right. If you are doing thiis, always put a little pressure down on the wheel/tire when you are doing it or it wont conform to anything. Take small slices off the side at a time. Then, if you still are toooo full, start taking small slices off the top until you get it where you want. Dont over do it tho, small steps

Section 6
Steering and Servos
__________________________________________________ ___________

Q. Should I upgrade my servo...
A. Yes, but only if your budget allows you to get something better the stocker. There is no point in wasting money on another mini servo that is weak and plastic geared. You want power, as in at least 100oz/in and metal gears. The most popular choice (and for good reason) seems to be the hitech 645. If you dont have the money to get a good full size servo, then dont get one at all. Be sure to always leave the servo saver on your stock servo at all times. If you pull it off, you will fry your servo and maybe your esc very quickly

Q. Do I need a new servo plate for a full size servo.
A. Yes, you can make one or buy one... I have... when the situation arose... attatched my Hitech 645 to the stock servo mount with 3 zip ties, and it held... But, its not as good as a solidly mounted plate. You will also need to either make, or buy mounts for it.

Q. I want more steering travel, how can I get it.
A. You can file/grind down the axle stub shaft that the axle goes into, or you can get some CVD's (constant velocity drive)

Section 7
Suspension, links and shocks
__________________________________________________ ____________

Q. When I am driving around, or climbing up a rock, my MRC leans really had to the left side. What/Why is it doing this
A. You are experiencing Torque Twist. This is a common occurance in a shaft driven rock crawler (shaft driven meaning it has drive shafts going from the transmission to the axles). Torque Twist (TT from here on out) happens for alot of reasons, and there are lots of fixes, or helpers for it. You need to seriously consider doing one, or all of the following. Getting all of the weight you can as low as possible, using heavier shock oil, converting to a 4 link suspension, heavier springs.

Q. I hear that limiting your shocks is good, but I want lots of articulation, I think it looks cool... How, and wy should I limit it my shocks.
A. Yeah, it looks cool but its not very effective. To limit your shocks, you need to diss-assemble them, and slide a piece of nitro fuel tubing on the shock shaft inside the shock body The tubing needs to be betwee 1/4 inch and 3/8ths inch long. The reason for limiting your shocks is that while having tons of articulation looks cool, it actually hinders your ability to crawl. When you have as much articulation as the MRC has stock your suspension is actually losing control of the chassis, and allowing the weight in the chassi to push the suspension around. This causes huge problems in the vertical, sidehilling and descending departments of crawling.

Q. My shocks leak.
A. Alot of shocks leak, you have either assembled them wrong, Dont have them tight, they are a bad design and you need to fix them, or you have nicked the shock shaft. So, check your assembly, make sure they are tight, and use some teflon tape, or replace them.

Q. What weight shock oil should I run.
A. Everyone likes something diffrent. Start with at least 50wt and work your way up until you are happy

Q. Should I lower my MRC, and why.
A. YES. the MRC stock sits very high off the ground. Limiting your shocks will lower the vehicle some. The reason to lower it is for a better Center of Gravity (COG from here on out). The lower your COG, the better you will climb, descend, and sidehill. When you have a high COG, the truck will feel tippy, and unstable.

Q. Should I run a droop setup
A. Some like it, some dont, it gets the rig very... very low to the ground, You will need to move to a heavier weight shock oil if you do. Use the search button to find out how/why

Q. Do the Mini T springs fit the MRC
A. Yes they do, they are a little shorter and a little stiffer, so they are perfect!

Q. What is a four link, and how is it diffrent from the stock setup
A. A four link has four independant links that leave the chassis from four diffrent points and connect to the axle in four independant locations. They do not touch each other, and there are always 2 upper links, and 2 lower links.

Q. What is wrong with the stock 3 link. Why is it a bad design.
A. There is nothing neccissarily wrong with a three link, however the way that it is done on the MRC is what makes it bad. The upper link (or the Y link) mounts to the axle in a way that would allow the axle to rotate 180 degrees if it werent stopped by shocks and lower links. The only thing that the upper Y link is used for on the MRC is to stop axle wrap (where the axle wants to spin forward or backward), and to stop the side to side movement of the axle. It is a free rotationg design that in no way helps the suspension do its job.

Q. Why should I switch to a 4 link setup. Should I go 4 link in the front, rear or both.
A. A four link doesnt allow the axle to rotate freely. Instead it make the axle move in a very defined path. A four link will help fight TT because it no longer relies on the shocks and springs to do all of the work, rather it conrols the weight transfer of the chassis so that the weight is being forced to move directly forward or backwards instead of off to an angle (as the stock 3 link does). A rear 4 link will help alot with TT, and with climbing ablity, but a full front and rear 4 link setup will all but stop TT and really enhance the abiliies of your truck in every way.

Q. Can I make my own 4 link. What materials should I use.
A. Yes, you can make your own. Its not that complicated, however you should know this, you will be messing with suspension geometry and if you dont do it right, or the links are not the same length your axle will not work the way its supposed to, so if you are not comptent with a ruler and basic fabrication then just buy a kit. If you are going to DIY, then you can use 4-40 stainless steel allthread (with some alum, or brass sleeves to make it slide over the rocks better), You can use delrin, or anything else really that is strong and you can get some end links onto. You will need to come up with a way to mount your upper links to the axle. You can remove the stock rear servo plate and mount your links straight to the axle where the servo plate used to mount to, or you can drill a couple of holes in the rear servo plate and mount them there. You can also make your own rear plate if you want.

Section 7
Chassis and setup
__________________________________________________ ______________

Q. Whats the best chassis for the MRC...
A. Dont ask us this question anymore. for the love of god almighty. You want to find out whats the best. Read around on here. Look at the pics, go out to your local comps, make friends and see what others are doing. When you start getting up into the more comp level chassis it is no longer about which chassis is better, but who is better at setting it up and driving it. No-one on here has driven every chassis out, and therefore can only give their opinion on the few they have actually driven. You will get a 9 page discussion with no clear answer. Its up to you, so read, learn and search.

Q. Should I mount my battery to the front servo.
A. If you want. It gets you some more weight on the front axle... which is good, and it does move it down a little lower. If you want to do this, then be sure you at least have it attatched with some velcro, zip-ties, or stickytape.

Q. How are you guys mounting your electronics to the links.
A. We are making a little small lexan shelf. You can make one out of an old RC body you have laying around and zip-tie it down, or sticky tape it down.

Last edited by soundcolor; 08-23-2009 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:13 PM   #3
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Section 8
Random questions
__________________________________________________ _______________

Q. Where can I get ___insert part here_________.
A. Here is a link that should help. There are new parts coming out for the MRC almost daily, so if you see something you like on someone elses rig, then ask them what it it, where they got it and how much it cost.
Losi MRC Ultimate Guide

Q. What are the 1.9 class comp rules...
A. http://www.usrcca.com/usrcca_rules_2...-09-master.pdf

Q. Hey, I'm a newb has anyone thought of doing this yet.... (insert random mod)
A. Most likely yes. But we are always open to new ideas. Please, before you post something up, do a search to see if its been done before. If you have a new idea, or a mod to the mod then by all means. Once you have been around for a while then you will know if you have something original. Until then tho, search first, then post.

Q. Is the MRC any good/ is the MRC a turd/ is an Axial better...
A. Yes, the MRC is a good rig, if it werent there wouldn't have been a whole comp class set up just for it.
Yes, the MRC has some issues,
Maybe. Depends on which axial, and what upgrades.

Q. I bought something from so n so, and havent gotten my product, and cant get in touch with them.
A. Did you post up in the chit-chat area. Did you send them a PM. Did you contact pay-pal or your credit card company

Q. Which is better, a scaler, a tuber, or a full chassis rig
A. Depends on what you like. Scalers are great looking and perform pretty well, Tubers, look bitchin and perform pretty well, and full chassis look awsome and perform pretty well. So, really its up to you, read, and search and see what you like best

Q. I want to get an MRC, but they have this New Bright at walmart for like 20 bucks, which is better...
A. Seriously... thats your question.... really.... That New bright at walmart doesnt have a suspension, isnt rebuildable, isn't upgradable and shouldn't even be called a RC vehicle... its barely good enough to classify as a toy.

Q.I really like (insert random company)'s parts, but I cant get in touch with (random company founder/owner). What do I do.
A. Did you send them a PM, do they have an E-mail account, did you send them an e-mail. Do they have a website... did you contact them by phone, Did you wait more than 1 day for a response

Q. Can someone post pics of their rig
A. Losi Crawler Pictures......

Q. I cant find what I am looking for using the search button
A. Select "advanced search", Select the Losi MRC forum, Select "seach titles only, and then keep your quarry as short as possible. You will have much more luck with one or two words at a time than with ten.

Q. I saw someone posted something the other day, and now I can't find it.
A. Use the search and search by that persons username

If you find an error or duplicate question please PM me, and I will fix it.
And as always, I will keep an eye out for new questions that need to be added here. If you have any ideas, or see something you would liike posted then send me a PM and I'll see what I can do
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Last edited by soundcolor; 08-23-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:05 AM   #4
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Cottontown
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new stuff in the section 5 (wheels and tires) about tire foam

if you guys have anything else you would want to see in this feel free to shoot me a PM
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:31 AM   #5
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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new stuff in section 7

I added a couple of Q an A's on 4 links. I also moved the random questions section down to post number 3 because I was running out of character room on post 1 and 2
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:50 AM   #6
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Default beginners guide

looks like i will be visiting this thread often as soon as my MRC arrives
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:21 AM   #7
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Default wheels and tires

I cut my foam in my flatiron tires and now have dents in my tires:-(How do I fix it?
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:19 AM   #8
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: England, Yorkshire, West yorkshire, Leeds
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Hmm, I think I'm going to need this after x-mas... Especially the beadlock and 4 link part
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Old 12-23-2009, 02:06 PM   #9
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Yea im gonna be hitting this up after christmas to do the beadlock mod.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:07 PM   #10
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Location: Jersey Strong!
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I've wanted an MRC for sometime now and I just ordered one today. Thanks soundcolor for all the info
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:01 AM   #11
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: UK
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THIS /\ /\ is ALL GOOD

Cheers - A
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:06 PM   #12
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Excellent info. soundcolor - You answered my specific question perfectly, in detail and with a part link. Awesome!
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:36 PM   #13
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Great info!! for this first time crawler.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:08 PM   #14
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anza
Posts: 34

To Soundcolor,
Thanks for all the information on the beginner's guide to MRC.
Just last month picked up my first Losi 1/18th scale Mini Rock Crawler.
Still learning about it.
Again Thanks,
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:48 PM   #15
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I made a little pic for one tip

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Old 12-09-2010, 11:21 PM   #16
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Southern California
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Thanks for all the info on the MRC...Will be buying an MRC soon!
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:43 AM   #17
Join Date: Dec 2010
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very informative and helpful... nice one!
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:48 PM   #18
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im so pleased with all of this info and the willingness of people to help a total noob out that i bought a star... thanks again
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:38 PM   #19
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this seems like a good place to ask, how long are the stock MRC shocks? looking for a shorter shock in a 1/10scale application, seems like it may be a good option.

thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:19 PM   #20
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: portland
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Thanks for all the great info it really helps out the noobs (me)
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