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Old 04-08-2010, 10:43 AM   #41
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If you used something smaller in diameter for your drag link and tie rod, then I think you should be able to mount your drag link on top of the knuckle arms. I've drilled and tapped my aluminum knuckles for 0 ackerman angles. All my links are further above the knuckle arms
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneed View Post
If you used something smaller in diameter for your drag link and tie rod, then I think you should be able to mount your drag link on top of the knuckle arms. I've drilled and tapped my aluminum knuckles for 0 ackerman angles. All my links are further above the knuckle arms
Yeah I know., I need to find something that is smaller but still strong. got a link to your setup?

Last edited by helhedded; 04-08-2010 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:31 PM   #43
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Um.. I don't have a pic showing the front view. I'll try to remember tonight. I will tell you what I'm using for tie rods. 1/8th music wire
That stuff is strong. For what little lenghts you need to use, there's not hardly any flex. You can flex it, if you try like hell. But it's got memory. Also I've got about 2.5mm spacer between my knuckle arms and tie rod. Puts it up high. I shaved the housing alot to make fit
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:32 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneed View Post
Um.. I don't have a pic showing the front view. I'll try to remember tonight. I will tell you what I'm using for tie rods. 1/8th music wire
That stuff is strong. For what little lenghts you need to use, there's not hardly any flex. You can flex it, if you try like hell. But it's got memory. Also I've got about 2.5mm spacer between my knuckle arms and tie rod. Puts it up high. I shaved the housing alot to make fit
sounds cool. pics would be sweet
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:50 PM   #45
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I have some solid steel rod that will work,I'll bring it with me and we'll whip some thing up real quick for you steering.
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:20 PM   #46
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I have some solid steel rod that will work,I'll bring it with me and we'll whip some thing up real quick for you steering.

sounds like a plan
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:26 PM   #47
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After spinning out a pin in one of driveshafts just zipping around the house I knew that they needed to be upgraded. After a little searching I came across this mod that Eric113 posted. I already had some stampede shafts and balls laying around so I just spent $10 at my lhs and after I had some beefy shafts.

Here is a link to Eric113's post
eric113 GC2

When I was running a shafty in the 2.2 class I had a problem with twisting driveshafts. I didn't want to upgrade to MIPs because I liked how the plastic shafts were a weak point. I still wanted to stiffen them up a bit and Corkysk8 mentioned that 8-32 all thread was a perfect fit in the Traxxas shafts. It's a cheap way to have some super strong driveshafts





Last edited by helhedded; 04-09-2010 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:16 PM   #48
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Well Lil Focker has been lots of fun. We have experienced a few hangups here and there such as: blowing a tranny locker at ECC, lil focker being so thirsty that he decided to go for a swim, lil focker eating up both sets of axle gears... you know









Fast forward to the last Ark/la/miss comp that we had last weekend. My buddy Rottenbelly hooked me up with some wheel wideners. I just wanted them on the front to see if it made a positve performance gain. The way the truck ran was so much better compared to before. I also added an ounce to my back axle. The truck stays planted more now. I ended up in 3rd place, but points were tight. The more and more I drive this lil focker, the more I love it.

It's been a rough trip Lil' Focker, but I won't give up on you. I probably just need to tone down your lipo power.

I upgraded to some Vendetta Shocks. They are very smooth and the red compound HB Rovers and Lil' Nova foams are a killer combo.






Last edited by helhedded; 06-07-2010 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:17 PM   #49
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I recently put on a JR8711 servo due to my Hitec 5645 feeling too weak. I am really glad that I put this monster on because the last thing you need is your servo stalling out when you have no dig. I also siped my Rovers. I'm not sure why I didn't so this a long time ago.







The 8711 @6.0v has no problem doing what I tell it do



I had to turn my tranny around to allow more room for my battery...talk about cramming 5 lbs of crap in a 2lb box....

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Old 07-21-2010, 05:31 PM   #50
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Nice mod for the shafts. Looks like I'll add that and turn the trans around to my list of things for my son's GC3 build. I'll have to post some pics when the cvd's arrive this week and start building this lil turd.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:22 PM   #51
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So how much wider did the wideners make it?

Last edited by jimbiss; 07-22-2010 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:53 AM   #52
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Quote:
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Nice mod for the shafts. Looks like I'll add that and turn the trans around to my list of things for my son's GC3 build.
You will love these shafts! They are cheap and work great. Just make sure that you trim them properly


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So how much wider did the wideners make it?

They pushed my front out to 8" wide. I'm not sure on the measurement before the install.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:29 PM   #53
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Here are a few pics that show the difference from the front to the rear. It seems to really help with the turning radius.



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Old 08-02-2010, 07:03 PM   #54
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Great build! I thought about putting my 8711 in mine but need to upgrade some parts first,that's a lot of servo for these little trucks!! What's it weigh with the battery and all ready to hit the rocks?

Last edited by Cave Dave; 08-02-2010 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #55
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Great build! I thought about putting my 8711 in mine but need to upgrade some parts first,that's a lot of srevo for these little trucks!! What's it weigh with the battery and all ready to hit the rocks?

Yeah it is a lot of servo power for sure but I haven't broken anything... yet


I just threw it up on the scale RTR with a new Rhino 360 mah 2s (tiny) and it weighed 2.75 lbs. I really need to move the electronics down lower... I really don't like how everything is at the moment. I'll probably end up flipping the tranny back around so I can have more space in the back.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:31 PM   #56
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This lil focker rocks. It amazes most everyone when he takes it out. That looks like the same place my 2.2 cooled off last comp. Great lil' rig Ashton can't wait to drive when you get it out again
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:41 PM   #57
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This lil focker rocks. It amazes most everyone when he takes it out. That looks like the same place my 2.2 cooled off last comp. Great lil' rig Ashton can't wait to drive when you get it out again

I'll let you drive it, but when will you build your own so we can start running these things at 4WP?
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:53 AM   #58
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Nice build nice to stare at and be a dreamer
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:05 PM   #59
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Default helhedded GC3

To helhedded,
Nice build, excellent photos and thanks for all the useful information.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:30 PM   #60
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Nice build nice to stare at and be a dreamer
Thanks!

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To helhedded,
Nice build, excellent photos and thanks for all the useful information.
bens170
Thanks!





small update:
more belly clearance!

..not too sure if the shocks will stay like that, but it does help with sidehilling. FYI, I only had to stretch the stock gc3 links by 1mm to get them back to the correct length. The uppers will work in the lowest hole. You just have to rotate the lower links inward a little. I also have my shocks limited by 1/4", so that is why I am not seeing any binding.




Last edited by helhedded; 08-24-2010 at 01:14 PM.
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