Loose bead locks on rear tires
 

I got my rear Bead locks set to just barely pin the tire. I tested and I tightened, and then I tightened some more. Now I got it set perfect so the rears just slip right before a forced roll over from the usual rear traction bite .and when you get jammed up it acts very much like a dig. some one else try this and let me know what you think. I didnt read nothing in the 1.9 rules that says you tires have to be locked down . I bet you would raise some eyebrow when your rear tires stop spinning when your about to roll in a comp :lmao:

If you try this, make sure you tighten them up enough to still pull off your usual steep climbs. Its like a slipper clutch for each rear wheel . I like when i get a rear tire stuck now. I can just power right out and the tire will spin before anything breaks."thumbsup"

Its not the worst idea I've ever heard..

I just don't see how it would reliably work

The real idea I have is to make a slipper to replace the wheel hex in the rims
basically the rim would have a disk and the hub/carrier would have a disk and they meat together to make a slipper. then add a spring washer to the wheel nut . If you tighten it up there would be no slip at all , and then loosen for slippage...Now that might be more reliable maybe ,but the bead lock is doing the same thing imo. It slips at the same point every time so far. thanks for your opinion."thumbsup"

Here is the video clip of my MRC with the loose rear bead lock mod .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV2iBEaw2bQ


bottom line I get up more steep crawls without roll overs, back flips, or 3 wheeling up the whole climb. even with weight in the rears you are able to control how much the rear tires bite to stop the back flipping and make more climbs then ever before. My bead locks make it very ez to do because there is a lock ring on only one side so its simple to make the adjustments to get it perfect. And the tire fits into a groove in these rims so the tire doesn't come out even when loosened. hope you like the video. This mod strait up works and and I have not had to adjust it since I got the tension on the tire where I want it . most people don't even run rear weight due to this problem and some even chop aggressive lugs off of expensive rear tires to stop the bite. thanks for checking this out. give it a shot nothing to lose except for the back flips. "thumbsup"

it soundss like it would work great.. Im just letting people know tht with the stock MRC beadlocks it doesnt work so well..I guess i just learned they were fake beadlocks. lol

You know what - this is a great, blue-sky thinking, free mod. that seems to work well.

Dude, there were sooooooo many touch penalties in that climb that I don't think any mod could overcome.....

No seriously, looks to be decent, I may give it a try...

Still working great. I actually can't believe how great it works. :shock:I wanted to let you guys know I was not able to do it on the axial rims. The proline titus pin the tire by only the outer ring. They stay in the groove while spinning and don't pull out. The axial rim seemed to pin the tire very well even when loose. So it had to be realy loose to work. But bottom line my crawler is way better at everything with this mod. Have not found any down side to this yet as long as you set it at the perfect tenshion I have not had to readjust."thumbsup"

It's a kick ass idea, and I don't see where it violates any USRCCA rules. The one concern is that it wouldn't work on every wheel or tire. A more controllable slipper would be a better idea, but cool way to think outside the box"thumbsup".

It is a great idea,but I cant see it working i the video,except for when you hold the tire...Try marking the tire/wheel with chalk,then it would be easier to see whats happening.

I will post up a new video when I get home. the main thing I was trying to show in the video was that it wont flip even on a vertical crawl with the rear wheel pinned :shock: but i will try to show it slipping here and there without the tire pinned. and I will full speed up a steep incline with no backflip for you guys :mrgreen: "chalk" good idea "thumbsup" i got the axial rims to work it was the tires, had excess rubber chunks (from molding) hanging up the spin in the groove. and a dash of baby powder (or light oil/grease)got em spinning nice and consistently. I will try and video my scx10 also.

It kinda acts like an overdrive front standard rear or standard fron underdrive rear setup on a climb allowing the front to grip harder and turn faster than the rear. In the video try 2 things:
1) like mentioned above, mark the tire and the rim at the same point so we can watch the slip.
2) go up the exact same section with a set of wheels that are fully tightened to show the performance difference!

Cool idea, love the goofy free stuff that just plain works. They are my favorite mods!
Matt

Ok after running the scx with axial rims. There are a few problems I need to fix to get em to work right. :oops:So don't try it if you have axail rims until I post a mod to make em work. But if you have the proline titus there is no problems at all. Unfortunatly I don't own any other rims to test it on :cry: so as of now the only rims I can say it works great on is the titus. I think the axail rims can work I just need to mod them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyBK1M7Cbx8

new video footage :flipoff:
I did not get a chance to lock em down to compare, I ran out of daylight
the chalk(white crayon I had no chalk) worked great "thumbsup"
enjoy its short but sweet
by the way my motor is wasted and I am thumb steering crawling and shooting the video so....

Works pretty good"thumbsup"
But it will also have some draw backs too...
If your the kinda guy that likes to launch your truck,its gonna be hard to get that power to the ground.

But if your a slow technical driver,this is a very reasonable idea to consider.

That depends How you have it set. I still have Launch, but you are right there must be less launch. Imo all you need is more than enough wheelspeed and a strong motor. But that is the reason I don't run them looser, because I still want to leap. I don't see a draw back to just losing some launch, but others might. You should see how this thing acts when I have em realy loose :shock: very diggy but can't jump a gap. But I say if crawlers where made to fly they'ed have wings:lmao:

Another option
 

i've been thinking about your idea all day and this is what i've come up with as an alternative to makeing an actual slipper plate for each wheel.

Take your stock hex and round it off, I just chopped mine for testing the idea I'm sure you could use a hunk of 3/8th delrin tube with a slot for the pin in it too.

I added a small nylon washer to protect the wheel from wear and on the outside of the wheel a washer, lock washer then the lock nut. It seams to work just fine, just like youre idea without wearing the rubber in the lock ring... No body likes it when your rubber is too thin and breaks...

I didn't have the proper size washer's but a trip the hardware store and about $2 should get you going on this mod. I think for it to be highly efficent would have toplay with materials for proper friction.

The only problem I see is without locktight the lock nut will want to loosen just a tad... I think it's a sount consept.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/4758489a.jpg

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/da0429f9.jpg

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/0ab354c0.jpg

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/73ba38bf.jpg

Interesting idea Adam, I dare you to run it at Motorama!:twisted: Double Dog Dare You!

Nice job man"thumbsup"

I use some light oil on the beads so it wont wear
paintball gun oil to be exact it stops rubber o rings from wearing
can't wait to try it your way also. Plus can do that on my other rims
I think you may need something like slipper material for a washer in there"thumbsup"

I was having a tough time getting my x-locks to spin in the rim.. some oil might help..

I messed around with the setup that I just came up with and it works well, just seams to loosen up the longer it runs. I think it work require a spring to help keep steady tenstion but then the axle might not be long enough for that. I'm going to have to work on this a little... humm I wonder if I could mod a stock slipper plate from the trans to go into each rear axle for maximum adjustability. I think you have somthing here with this idea.

I could still climb just as well it just took a little extra playing with but in the tight technical dips and turns the most bound up rear wheel stoped and and let the front pull through or both stopped till the front moved the pressure off the rear making it very predictable to control.

I love this idea. Now to perfect a mechenizm for this idea.

Here's a video I did, it's kinda dark but you can see the longer I drive the more it loosens up.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/x...h_881a350e.jpg