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09-18-2010, 05:05 PM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Trafalgar
Posts: 50
|  Lowering mrc
I have mrc with the losi aftermarket shocks and was wondering if there was any possible way to lower it a little without buying new shocks. thanks Last edited by Cole Moore; 09-21-2010 at 05:51 PM. |
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09-18-2010, 05:19 PM
| #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Topeka
Posts: 103
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Im down to find more info on this as well.. I flipped my shocks upside down, got bent lower links, and am working out how I'm gunna remove the electronics tray and remount everything including the upper shock mounts.. Have a few ideas, and one is to lay the shocks down a little more and give it a little better droop while sprung. ~Kev |
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09-18-2010, 07:51 PM
| #3 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa
Posts: 52
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Post some pics of your setup.
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09-18-2010, 08:30 PM
| #4 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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You can always use a bit of fuel tubing inside the shock around the shaft for an internal limiter. That will allow less droop. However, you need to make sure that you have the ability raise the spring by the same amount....
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09-18-2010, 08:45 PM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Topeka
Posts: 103
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Well, here it is.. as I said above.. Flipped shocks, bent lower (rear only so far) links, battery on the servo.. no weight in the wheels yet, but I did remove 1/2 the width of the foam inside them.. Adapter on the battery because I still use the stock Nimh.. heavy and helps it climb on the servo.. but the esc is wired for deans so I can use my lipo's in the tray as well as my smaller lipos on the servo. Excuse the front driveshaft, I have warranty one on the shelf to go in tomorrow.. Day I bought it the shaft fell apart at the press pin and I lost it in the grass.. called tech support and they sent me new ones.. I mowed 4 days later and found it (could not friggin believe it) so I wired it back together as temp till the new ones arrived.. They came yesterday, been busy all day though!     Pic showing the balance I get with the nimh pack:  When I put the bent links on, I extended one of the stock straight lowers and subbed it in place of the main steering rod.. I tried full droop for a day, with no springs at all.. and all it did was flop about.. torque twist owned it... drove me nuts and crawled like crap.. So the springs went back on.. Up next on the list: softer/shorter springs for better droop replace front driveshaft bent lowers on the front (LHS only had 1 set in stock) better servo 4 link the rear consider 4 link on front ~Kev Last edited by Darksiede; 09-18-2010 at 10:12 PM. Reason: removed double pic |
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09-19-2010, 01:15 AM
| #6 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
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What weight shock oil are you running? If you are going to run droop or semi droop you really need to get some stiffer oil in there or else it will flop all over as you are describing. I have been having great results with semi droop in front and sprung in the rear. It really helps on steep climbs to keep the front down since we dont have digs on these things. I am running two springs on my front shocks, one internal pulling down and the other external pushing up...Try that out I bet you will like it! SMR 510RR  |
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09-19-2010, 01:29 AM
| #7 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Topeka
Posts: 103
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Still on stock shock oil.. I am gutting a pair of ballpoint pens tomorrow and giving the semi-droop test on the front.. I took all the spring spacers out tonight and played with it on my junkyard course. It had some flop to it, drooping about 1/2" lower then in the pics above which were totally sprung. It wasn't bad overall, and really liking how my cut down foams are working on the front.. will do the rears after I pick up some BB's for weight at wallyworld tomorrow. I think I want the front about 1/4 to 1/2" lower then the rear, internally & externally sprung like yours (and my LHS' dudes is setup). With about 50 BB's in the fronts and 25 in the rears, with the cut down foams. Once I get the bent links for the front I will really wring it out. Then next thing will be fabbing up a 4 link setup for the rear, and servo plate with a side by side setup to mount my smaller lipo's on and get that weight even closer to the axle. I'm not sure I will 4 link the front now, I'll need the front upper link truss for plans down the road. After that's all done, I'll be removing the electronics tray. fabbing up a plate to ride on the front upper link truss and hold the esc & rx. When I remove the electronics tray, I have to relocate the upper shock mounts as well.. still trying to figure out what I plan to do there.. How are your internal springs setup to pull down? Just thinking about that.. on my inverted shocks it will be easy, spring on the piston rod, between the "bottom" of the shock and the piston.. ~Kev Last edited by Darksiede; 09-19-2010 at 01:31 AM. |
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09-19-2010, 03:21 AM
| #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
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I wouldnt run BB's as weight, that is an old school trick that just about no one uses any more. Do yourself a favor and look for some lead roap when you are at wallyworld, should be with the fishing weights. I couldnt find any there so I just bought some 3/4 and 1/2 oz egg shaped fishing weights and pounded them out so they would fit in the channel in the wheel and then just threw some electrical tape on them to hold them from shifting around. You will want to run at least 3 oz in the front and 1 oz in the rear. Also the ball point pen springs I have tried were all way too stiff for these light rigs. I ended up buying some Micro T springs and they are awesome. They are different front and rear (rears are like 1/8" longer) and come in a pack of 3 different spring rates. They were cheap (a couple bucks a pack I think) and I have a firm pushing up and a soft pulling down and that gets me about 50% droop and still holds the front down during climbs. It may be worth seeing if the LHS has them. Yea the internal springs are between the piston and the cap the shaft goes through. Easiest way to get them in there is to unscrew the rod end and pull the shaft out, put the spring on and put it back together. You should also pick up some shock oil to throw in them at the same time. Grab a couple weights of oil to test out (its like $3 a bottle) I would say like 30, 45, 60 would be good to start testing with. Oh and if those are the stock tires do yourself a favor and replace them with something better. There are plenty of options out there but rovers seem to be the go to tire. Hope that helps, SMR 510RR Last edited by SMR 510RR; 09-19-2010 at 03:23 AM. |
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09-19-2010, 02:54 PM
| #9 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Topeka
Posts: 103
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I spent the afternoon tinkering.. I'm going to post up my own thread on it later though instead of hijacking this one.. I'm aiming for the same thing as this thread, but its turned into my build/setup thread or whatever lol.. ~Kev |
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09-20-2010, 04:20 AM
| #10 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 80
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09-21-2010, 05:54 PM
| #11 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Trafalgar
Posts: 50
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i dont have internal springs in my aftermarket losi shocks
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