Another one joins the MRC fray

[cbr6fs]

El Matador,

Thanks for the link, unfortunately i was unable to find anything in the other build threads that could help.

I'll whip off the lower links tomorrow and measure them.
I did check before assembly and they did all look to be the same size though.

Looking at some of the other build threads, it seems that shock bind especially at the rear is a problem for them as well.
In one thread the op moved the shocks outside the mounts, i might try that.

Only other options i can see are:
1/ Move the upper links in-board
2/ Fit bigger spacers on the upper shock mounts
3/ Internal shock springs

Is this a common problem when going 4-link with the MRC (shock bind i mean)?


Neil,

Aye all 3 times i rebuild it today
The servo arm i bought is longer than the stock item, so it catches on the steering linkage.

I was wondering when you'd ask about the spacers
They're the TCS ones (G made i think).
I just want to try them on the rear for a little while see how they are, if i don't like them on the rear i'll ship a pair off to you mate


Cheers
Mark

[Drvnbeing]

Ya know ya can just solder the wire onto your endbell, right? Just make sure ya solder it up in the right location. I had one hh mini that all four tabs broke off and the wires ended up just being soldered right to the endbell. No big just scrape the coating off of the endbell and use a lil flux. Also John sells all replaceable parts for his motors so if ya are real anal about it just order up a new endbell. I always try to adjust my motor now so the wiring is somewhat facing inside the chassis.
Good luck.
And keep in mind Rich and Del Monte can prob get ya anything faster than customer service with the right info, just send them a pm next time ya have a manufacturer defect like the screws. Both are great guys and go out of their way to make things happen. Losi has their problems but they have a great group of guys working for them and I wont hesitate to continue buying rigs from them.

Cheers!

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by Drvnbeing

Ya know ya can just solder the wire onto your endbell, right? Just make sure ya solder it up in the right location. I had one hh mini that all four tabs broke off and the wires ended up just being soldered right to the endbell. No big just scrape the coating off of the endbell and use a lil flux. Also John sells all replaceable parts for his motors so if ya are real anal about it just order up a new endbell. I always try to adjust my motor now so the wiring is somewhat facing inside the chassis.
Good luck.
And keep in mind Rich and Del Monte can prob get ya anything faster than customer service with the right info, just send them a pm next time ya have a manufacturer defect like the screws. Both are great guys and go out of their way to make things happen. Losi has their problems but they have a great group of guys working for them and I wont hesitate to continue buying rigs from them.

Cheers!

Aye i wanted to check to see if the tabs were known to be weak and if they were covered by warranty first.

To be honest though for the price of the motor it'd cost more to return it than it would to buy a new one

Ordered a Crawler Mafia 16T, Paul did me a great deal and i have added a endbell to the order

Do Richy and Del Monte work for Losi then?
Pretty impressed with their customer service, they answered my email quickly and sent out the replacements straight away.

Great service guys

[cbr6fs]

Another day and today i was determined to get the thing running and running well.

As mentioned above i re-soldered the wire straight to the end-bell.
Worked a treat and is probably better there as it's out the way now.

Faffed about with battery placement, tried on the top of the chassis but didn't like it.
Tried on the side of the chassis, but thought the pack a little to exposed there.

In the end i stuck some industrial strength velcro to the rear link plate, stuck some female end velcro to my packs and it seems to work a treat.

Happy to hear others opinions though

Looked at mounting the stock shell, i have some body mount posts from my TC, but i need to move around the shock placements to get it to fit.
Soooooooooo as i had the velcro out i stuck some velcro to the top of the chassis and some on the inside of the shell and it seems to work great.
I can lift up the truck by the shell now the velcro's that strong

That's it pretty much sorted, only thing now is to test it.
Took it out to a local spot and woooowwwww what a difference.

Not only does the truck climb up angles it couldn't before, it's easier to drive and a hell of a lot more stable.


A few bits to sort out like suspension and link locations, i really want to try a few things to stop the shocks binding on the upper rear links as well as i'm getting very little articulation as it is.


But so far i'm chuffed to bollox

[toyw/me]

Dont know if you got the crooked chassis thing figured or not but you might want to hold the 2 side plates next to each other and make sure all the holes were machined the same on both plates, first thing I thought was you had your links in different holes. Are your shocks hitting the links or are your shocks binding by themselves. If you have the top of your shocks too tight(so they dont pivot at all) they will bind. I like to use small nuts that fit the shock screw for spacers even just one at a couple mm thick can make all the difference. You also might want to keep in mind that most of these comp chassis are designed for a limited amount of articulation nowhere near stock. Good luck have fun.

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by toyw/me

Dont know if you got the crooked chassis thing figured or not but you might want to hold the 2 side plates next to each other and make sure all the holes were machined the same on both plates, first thing I thought was you had your links in different holes. Are your shocks hitting the links or are your shocks binding by themselves. If you have the top of your shocks too tight(so they dont pivot at all) they will bind. I like to use small nuts that fit the shock screw for spacers even just one at a couple mm thick can make all the difference. You also might want to keep in mind that most of these comp chassis are designed for a limited amount of articulation nowhere near stock. Good luck have fun.

Thanks.

I tried that yesterday the holes seem to line up fine, but the quality of the BWD stuff is pretty fantastic anyways.

It looks to me as though the skid plate/tranny mount isn't square.
I'll try fitting spacers later in the week see if i can chase it down to 1 place.

The shocks are hitting the lower links (at the rear).

At rest the spring is about 2mm from touching the upper link.



If i lift the front right wheel (when viewed from behind) 60mm this is how it looks.



At 110mm it's at it's absolute limit of articulation and pops the spring out of it's lower cup.




I do have the option of moving the rear upper link position from it's current location (Black arrow) to it's inboard position (Yellow arrow)

Problem then is, i get very bad binding at the link (red arrow), which causes even more problems.





Cheers
Mark

[billet works]

Mark, something me and the team have done now is outboard all 4 shocks at the axle side. You are hitting because of the holes you are using on the link mounts. Outboard the shocks and that issue will lessen as well

If you skid is drilled crooked, it would be the only one out of 100 sold so far. They are drilled in a fixture so I dont see it being possible for them to vary much if any.

BW

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by billet works

Mark, something me and the team have done now is outboard all 4 shocks at the axle side. You are hitting because of the holes you are using on the link mounts. Outboard the shocks and that issue will lessen as well

Yep, same here. Especially the rear shocks.....outboarding them will give you a bit more stability. You can use a spacer or a spare ball from a rod end. Just make sure you have a bolt that is long enough.

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by billet works

Mark, something me and the team have done now is outboard all 4 shocks at the axle side. You are hitting because of the holes you are using on the link mounts. Outboard the shocks and that issue will lessen as well

If you skid is drilled crooked, it would be the only one out of 100 sold so far. They are drilled in a fixture so I dont see it being possible for them to vary much if any.

BW

Thanks Don

I'll move the shocks in the morrow.
It's weird mate, it's as though the side plate is bent, but it's not, nor is it catching on anything.

Just put 2 more packs through it though and i'm still loving it

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Yep, same here. Especially the rear shocks.....outboarding them will give you a bit more stability. You can use a spacer or a spare ball from a rod end. Just make sure you have a bolt that is long enough.

Any pics please?

[cbr6fs]

Took a few quick vids outside.

On both these ledges the car tipped backwards before the upgrades.

Ohhhh and i know my gear mesh is crap


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEMcv6XATgM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni2fo5RWEG8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E09wr9A5qEI

Bit lame but it'll give a rough idea on the performance even with my crap driving



Cheers
Mark

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by cbr6fs

Any pics please?

None up here at work, but I can snap one this evening for you.

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

None up here at work, but I can snap one this evening for you.

It's ok mate thanks, i found some pics on scatterbrains thread, i presume this is what you mean?




Just looked through my screw tub and i don't have enough M2x20mm screws, so i've ordered some, should be here next week.


Cheers
Mark

[JeremyH]

Yep, that's exactly how mine are setup....both front and rear.

It looks like he's running the same chassis as you as well....

[cbr6fs]

And the mounts hold up ok like that?


Another couple of quick questions please.
I've read that the spurs and pinions are .5 is this correct?

Would these pinions work on me MRC?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Novak-Mongoose...item5add2049da

What servo posts/mounts you guys using?



Cheers
Mark

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by cbr6fs

And the mounts hold up ok like that?

Yep, as long as you use a ball end or a spacer between the mount and run a bolt all the way through.

[cbr6fs]

Done a bit more reading and searching, seems most are using rc18t pinions.

So i've ordered a few of those.

[rock hard]

Have you already ordered the pinions?get a 10t if you can,that will be perfect I think.

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by rock hard

Have you already ordered the pinions?get a 10t if you can,that will be perfect I think.

Thanks Paul.

Yep i've ordered these (9T 10T 11T 12T) a 13T and 15T.
I have ordered the correct pinion though right it is the rc18t pinions we use right?

Only difficulty i'm having now is finding servo mounts.
Ideally i'd like some that are offset (to bring the servo forwards) instead of having to use spacers.

Any ideas or suggestion very welcome



Cheers
Mark

[rock hard]

You should be good,I use the rc18 pinion on mine. I like the losi pack too.

asfar as a servo mount? IDK,I use the stock slingshot mount.