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10-29-2010, 01:28 AM
| #81 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Eastern, Oregon
Posts: 109
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Whats the belly height on these buggers? After looking at your pics some more looks like your stuck for shock mouting in the front besides outboarding them. Can you move your links in board in the front on chassis and axle and leave your shocks where they are? On the back I would leave the links alone, Out board the shocks on the axle and on the chassis so when looking from behind they are parallel, then I would move the upper end to the holes were your chassis support is or just below. Then adjust your ride height with internal spacers or springs. Doing this will alow you to run less preload on your shocks because your tire will have less leverage to move them. When all is done and you are happy with fex and movement if you are not using all of your shock travel put stops on the shaft or inside above the piston this will give more traction and not allow your rig to get over twisted and break stuff like rod ends.
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10-29-2010, 07:10 AM
| #82 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Another day another nightmare. I'm starting to get to the limit of my patience with this build. I've got more hours build time in this little piece of shite than i have in all my other RC cars put together and STILL it's not right  I need some help with the servo mounting please guys. Here's what i've tried so far. 1/ Stock mount won't work as there is no provision for the upper links.  2/ Stock servo will not fit on the BWD mount as the area where the mount holes should be has cut outs.  So it's a full sized servo or nothing. 3/ In both the left and right mounting location the stock steering linkage is either too short or too long (obviously). I'm also needing to bring the servo forward around 14mm otherwise it hits the shocks.  When i move the servo THAT far forward i get no where near full steering throw as the linkage binds. 4/ If i raise and bring the servo forwards it works, but i'm getting a massive amount of flex.  5/ Full sized servo fits in the centre position with the stock steering linkage, but it needs to use the shorter stock steering arm and around 4mm spacing to bring it forward.  Problem here is the rear of the servo touches the springs (with car at full height) and the servo wires catch the spring. Plus i'd like to fit my full sized servo horn to try and get more steering throw. I've read the various build threads, most seem to use the BWD OTA steering kit. This kit may not work with the Losi Z/A knuckles though. Plus if i buy this kit what servo mounts will i need as i'm not really happy using spacers if i can avoid it. So what linkage do i need to buy? What servo mounts do i need to buy? Lastly, The Velcro shell mounting idea is not working. I've adapted some of my touring car posts to fit and made some holes in the shell, but the posts only have 1 screw so they pivot forwards and backwards. Any suggestions on a more robust shell mounting idea? Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:15 AM. |
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10-29-2010, 07:17 AM
| #83 | ||||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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 Quote:
When i tried that i found the links fouled the centre drive shaft, plus the truck seemed less stable (side to side) Quote:
As soon as these arrive i'll try a few shock positions and let you know. Quote:
Cheers Mark | ||||
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10-29-2010, 08:41 AM
| #84 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
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Mark, I feel for you chap. Don't give up on the chassis in favour of a GC3 just yet ! I think I've aready posted that I got a pair of Hot Racing aluminium servo mounts which work well but still need to spaced forward a little. As for the steering link you might as well give Don a little more of your hard earned on one of his steering links. Then you can run your lovely new servo link. As for zero ackerman, I can't help thinking that its just going to give you more heartache with you tyres binding on your shocks or shell or similar  .As for the red axle wideners, yes please if you don't get on with them on the rear - which you shouldn't Must post my build thread. |
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10-29-2010, 12:22 PM
| #85 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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It's been one of them weeks mate  Not really tempted to go for another chassis as. 1/ The BWD stuff is fantastic quality 2/ It seems that many of the problems i'm experiencing will be the same for any 4 link kit. I'm not adverse to moding stuff to fit, truth be told i kinda enjoy it at times. Problem is though i'm out in the sticks here and finding materials like delrin, or even basic stuff like M2x20mm screws is an absolute nightmare. Even if i knew a shop that had em in stock, by the time i've battled traffic getting there then finding somewhere to park, chances are they'll be out of stock  Plus even if they have stuff in stock which is extremely rare and unlikely it'll then be 3 x the price as say ebay. So i just like to get everything set out in my mind and order what i need, if i knew the steering kit was essential i'd have ordered it with the chassis, likewise if i knew i needed full sized servo mounts i'd have ordered those as well like the traxxas end links. With the binding and stuff, i'm guessing this is pretty much the norm on most crawlers, reading through threads on other kits there seems to be some problem on just about any kit you can buy, be it xr10 gears stripping or LCC MOA problems. Coming from off-road, touring/drifting car, planes and copters though i've not really experienced any of that. My Exotek chassis for me Cyclone bolted straight on, and every stock bit fitted straight on, the same with me Blitz and Firestorm chassis's and hop up's. So it's taken a learning curve for me to find out what the expectations are on crawler stuff. As an example any binding on me tourers would be completely unacceptable as it'd no doubt send the car straight off into the guide rail. On crawlers though because the speeds are a lot slower it's not so much of a problem. So i just need to dial in my thinking, expectations and frame of mind Just ordered the BWD OTA steering kit for the stock knuckles. If it doesn't fit the ZA knuckles then bugger it i'll run the stock knuckles instead Cheers Mark |
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10-29-2010, 01:03 PM
| #86 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Eastern, Oregon
Posts: 109
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Wow another long list of problems. The bdw steering kit looks cool and for Z/A knucks you may beable to use longer rod ends or space the out a bit to reach the holes then shave some material off the tie rod to fit under the servo mount. For now you could screw the stock sevo mount on top of the bdw one at least you could be driving the thing around till your parts get there. Steering is almost always a custom thing. Order yourself a decent stock of builder parts like rod ends, grub screws, rcbros has delrin tube that is great for these cars. A drill bit, a 3mm tap, and a saw and your in business. I also like to use all thread for mock up it lets you bend and adjust lengths without wasting your link building materials. Oh and 1 more thing if you can get some 45 degree bent rod ends like for an axial or venom creeper they work great for steering setup. After you get some supplies you can build instead of buy and it will be different from others and you can spend your time doing that instead of waiting for part to ship.
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10-29-2010, 03:42 PM
| #87 | ||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Have you got link please? I'll be bashing the hell out of it this weekend so i'll let you know after the weekend what i recon on the rear wideners Aye get a thread up, be great to see your build. Quote:
I've ordered some Derin rods from RCbros, so that should help. I'll also order some Delrin plate so i can faff about and try a few ideas i have on shell mounts. Do you have a link for the 45° end links please? I don't know if i'm searching with the wrong phrase but nothing came up on ebay. | ||
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10-29-2010, 03:53 PM
| #88 |
| dnf   Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
Posts: 1,901
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you said the servo hits the shock springs,try mounting your shocks on the outside of the mounte[axle] you will need a spacer and a longer bolt. thats will also help with the shocks hitting the chassis [up top] during the flow of articulation. |
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10-29-2010, 04:08 PM
| #89 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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I tried that as a temp mod and it looks like it'll solve near on all my problems. Only thing is i didn't have any long enough M2 bolts, ordered some M2 x 20mm bolts from ebay, they should be here next week | |
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10-29-2010, 05:45 PM
| #90 | |||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
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Quote:
Quote:
I've returned the favour for the lipo links you posted! | |||
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10-30-2010, 03:49 AM
| #91 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Thanks Neil, ordered Quote:
Sorry forgot all about this  Well comparing my measurements to Neil's i think i need to work on my droopage (didn't think that'd be a phrase i'd be uttering when i woke yyup this morning ).Mines running a fair bit higher.   I'll wind in a LOT less preload next time out and try that. Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:15 AM. | |
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10-30-2010, 05:30 AM
| #92 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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10-30-2010, 10:14 AM
| #93 |
| RcBros Hobbies   Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,646
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I really think our front 4 link might help you will your servo mounting issues. You can run a fullsize or mini servo and shift the servo right to left to accomedate your linkage.
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10-30-2010, 02:58 PM
| #94 | ||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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What's the thinking and logic behind not having the truck as high as possible? I realise the higher the truck the higher the CoG, but if the trucks not tipping over does this matter? What about droop, is this why we lower the chassis? What's a good start point with droop? Is there a rough guide like 20% of suspension travel as droop? Quote:
Think i'm pretty much sorted now though. I have a few servo mounts on the way, with the BWD OTA steering kit and your delrin tube that should cover most circumstances Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 10-30-2010 at 03:27 PM. | ||
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10-31-2010, 02:59 AM
| #95 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Eastern, Oregon
Posts: 109
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Your opening a whole new can of worms when talking about droop. There is so much to learn about shock tuning Ive had 4 different trucks and about 8 or 10 different chassis and different shock set ups on all of them. You have to tune shocks to your chassis, your driving style, and your terrain. The best advise Ican give is drive it, tinker, drive it, tinker, find out what works and what doesnt FOR YOU. You can try to PM some guys with the same chassis and they may help you get in the ball park but beyond that you have to play. I mean afterall these are just expensive toys. I will tell you for the losi shocks I like a 50/50 sprung droop. meaning springs on the inside ( cut down pen springs) to make the shock shorter and external springs to make the shock longer so only 50% of your shock shaft is exposed start with middle of the road oil like 35 weight and work from there. Belly height is another prefrence thing but I think your to tall. Somewhere between 1.5" and 2" inch seems to be the spot for these minis. Have fun.
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10-31-2010, 12:27 PM
| #96 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Fortunately i think this is one area where some of my experiences with touring and off-road RC cars might be of use. As the basics of suspension tuning should transfer over Only thing is with TC's and off-roaders i've learnt through trial and error to get a feel for a good setup in certain conditions. After a while you get to know what feels right even without looking at the lap times. With crawlers my main problem is, i could (by some massive bit of luck) come across the perfect setup, but without any experience i wouldn't know it unless it bit me in the ass. I used to faff about with setup pretty much none stop, it got to the point though where we were spending 20 mins working on the cars for 10 mins driving  One of the main reasons we started drifting instead of racing was it meant a LOT less setup and more time driving. We're now at a stage where the only time the shell comes off is to change batteries So i'm not after the last fraction of performance, there or there abouts i'll do just fine for now till i get some experience under me belt. Cheers Mark |
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10-31-2010, 06:02 PM
| #97 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
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Emails and photos sent. |
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11-02-2010, 05:27 PM
| #98 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney
Posts: 344
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It's been interesting, reading this thread. I just picked one up yesterday myself. Having invested quite a bit in my AX-10, I didn't plan on putting a lot of extra money into the MRC. - I agree with you that the quality of the plastic is crap. One tray screw hole already stripped, one top shock hole split. Lockers are known to be crap and WILL break. Very poor stock performance/ride height. - Stock shocks suck. I wanted to remove spacers and use a little droop, but was afraid that an unladen wheel's lower shock spring retainer might pop out with the spring flappin' on the shaft (I know, internally limit the shock. Didn't really want to get that involved with crap shocks I knew I'd replace). - Wheels and tires. I'll give Losi a bit of a pass on this one, as on just about any type/price RC you buy, the user will usually swap out these to something else. - I think you are wrong in saying they should use metric hardware. Losi isn't the only major RC vendor still using the imperial system. All my Associated stuff (top tier comp cars/trucks) is imperial. I don't expect Schumaker (sp?), HPI or OFNA (all cars I've owned or own) to cater to my tool chest. But you are right in saying that they should at least provide proper mini-tools so that the average guy can get work done. But being a dedicated hobbier that you are, dropping a one time fee for a set of hex wrenches and a set of nut drivers isn't asking for much. It's funny, usually it's an American that get's trashed for telling people in other countries "you should do it our way"!!!  Metric is still slowly making inroads in the US, and someday, I'm sure we will be metric. But that day is still a long, long ways away. - I wonder how the MRC "PRO" works? I saw one at a different store, after I bought my BND. I wonder if the plastic quality is more durable? |
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11-02-2010, 06:59 PM
| #99 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Just a quick post for now as i'm off to bed, a couple of vids shot today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLM30drkyOA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrlhBva18ng http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUA89aYtWhQ Cheers Mark |
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11-03-2010, 06:10 AM
| #100 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
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Who's the ugly spud in the third video?  |
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