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Thread: Another one joins the MRC fray

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Old 11-03-2010, 01:08 PM   #101
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[QUOTE=neiloid1;2712962]Mine settles at 1.75" centre of the skid plate, a little lower at the front, a little higher to the rear (45mm for us Europeans).


Mine running aboot 1.5", little lower at front higher at rear. Running Mini T springs (soft fitted, so droop about 1/3 of travel.). Had it running about 1.75" plus, with flat irons fitted. The extra clearance was brilliant, but rovers fitted now, the extra grip is probably better.
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:15 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
It's been interesting, reading this thread. I just picked one up yesterday myself. Having invested quite a bit in my AX-10, I didn't plan on putting a lot of extra money into the MRC.

- I agree with you that the quality of the plastic is crap. One tray screw hole already stripped, one top shock hole split. Lockers are known to be crap and WILL break. Very poor stock performance/ride height.

- Stock shocks suck. I wanted to remove spacers and use a little droop, but was afraid that an unladen wheel's lower shock spring retainer might pop out with the spring flappin' on the shaft (I know, internally limit the shock. Didn't really want to get that involved with crap shocks I knew I'd replace).

- Wheels and tires. I'll give Losi a bit of a pass on this one, as on just about any type/price RC you buy, the user will usually swap out these to something else.

- I think you are wrong in saying they should use metric hardware. Losi isn't the only major RC vendor still using the imperial system. All my Associated stuff (top tier comp cars/trucks) is imperial. I don't expect Schumaker (sp?), HPI or OFNA (all cars I've owned or own) to cater to my tool chest. But you are right in saying that they should at least provide proper mini-tools so that the average guy can get work done. But being a dedicated hobbier that you are, dropping a one time fee for a set of hex wrenches and a set of nut drivers isn't asking for much.

It's funny, usually it's an American that get's trashed for telling people in other countries "you should do it our way"!!!

Metric is still slowly making inroads in the US, and someday, I'm sure we will be metric. But that day is still a long, long ways away.

- I wonder how the MRC "PRO" works? I saw one at a different store, after I bought my BND. I wonder if the plastic quality is more durable?
Sorry for the delayed reply, it's been a bit hectic at work the past week or so.

Aye the quality of the plastics is starting to be a real problem now, it seems that the plastic lasts up to around 3 rebuilds, after the screws been tightened 3 times there is no thread left.
I've got some M2 bolts on the way and plan on using longer screws where i can then just add a bolt on the end.

I agree with the tyres and wheels, it seems that there is not a kit on the market that comes with decent wheels, tyres and servo's.
I don't mind this too much as long as the rest of the kit is good.

In the case of the MRC though i don't believe the kit is good.
Maybe it's the size or a Losi thing, but the quality of everything just feels more like a toy than a RC car.
The diff lockers only lasted 3 mins before blowing, the car can't achieve and useful angles in stock trim before tipping backwards, the plastic quality is extremely poor, the shocks are terrible and the stock servo wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

To put it into context, my HPI Blitz out the box had.
Crap motor and Esc
Leaky diff
Weak front servo
Crappy wheels and tyres.

It still drove extremely well out the box, it was/is tough as a titanium coated diamond encrusted Chuck Norris, it also crawls better and over rougher terrain than the stock MRC.
And i paid the same price for both.

Even hopped up to the point where about the only stock part that's left is the axle covers it still struggles over terrain (in the vid) that again me Blitz drove up.

So it's difficult to know where exactly the MRC is supposed to be used.
It's slow and boring on gravel, doesn't go up the size rocks in the vid and is small to get up onto bigger rocks.

I think Losi should rename it "the medium sized pebble crawler"

Problem i have now though is i'm getting up to having around £500 into the truck, that's more than in any other RC car i own, including me touring cars.
So if it means i'll need to spend the next 6 month on setup and finding somewhere ideal to run it, i will

On the metric stuff, i'm embarrassed to say it, but my car is actually 99.9% metric
In my defence the kids had been using some of my tools and had put some imperial allens in with metric ones.
But it's still a major on my part.

The only imperial screws on my MRC now are the BWD motor mount screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by neiloid1 View Post
Who's the ugly spud in the third video?
They say the camera adds 10lb's i'm wondering if that translates to 10kgs



Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:59 PM   #103
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Bit more of a update today.

After yesterdays play i managed to pop both front and rear diff locks.
Luckily you guys had warned me about this so i had some metal lockers

I think i wrote about this previously, but i did try installing the Metal lockers before, but the little screws seemed very tight, to the point where 1 sheared.
I contacted Losi and they said this is not a known problem, but they happily sent out a replacement gear set FOC, great service

So the rear diff had 1/2 metal diff and 1/2 plastic, so it was the plastic half that split.



While i had the diff apart i also fitted the overdrive gear in the front.

Stock gear is 14T on the left, overdrive is 15T on the right.



Took some finagling as the drive was VERY notchy, in the end i had to fit some spacers behind the diff bearing to pull it away from the overdrive gear.

Reassembled it last night, but found the tranny, wheels etc locked solid
Stripped it down again today and found the diff roated freely without any problems, weird.
Went through the rest of the system and found it was the motor that was locked solid

Stripped the motor down and found this.



Odd thing is when i last used the car it was fine.

I'll put up a post in the HH thread, but is this likely something i've done wrong, or a faulty motor?


Refitted the stock motor, everything rotates freely, ran the truck for 10 mins and it seems fine.

Here's a vid over the overdrive to give you some idea, it's very subtle but is overdriven slightly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD4EWp9qI5M


Lastly for now, the M2 x 20mm bolts came today so i outboarded the shocks.

Massive massive difference, no more binding, great free movement front to back and side to side





Servo wire JUST catches the spring in some positions.



I have a Savox 1251 low pro servo i can fit till the BWD steering kit arrives.
Once that's here the plan is to mount the servo offset so the wires are out the way.


Cheers
Mark

Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:53 PM   #104
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OMG have you ever had any good luck ?

Not sure HH Torquemaster is the way to go after the troubles you've had. Glad you've got your shocks sorted. How are you mounting them at the chassis, those black mounts look cool. Keep up the good work and daily updates.

Cheers, Neil
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:50 PM   #105
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Glad to see you got the longer bolts in...I included some stainless ones with your steering (tuner) kit just in case.

As for your rig...the rocks you are crawling on aren't offering a great example as to it's capabilities. My mini will take a lot of 2.2 lines...especially in current trim with CVD's, outboarded shocks, and Falsenfest knuckles
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:13 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neiloid1 View Post
OMG have you ever had any good luck ?

Not sure HH Torquemaster is the way to go after the troubles you've had. Glad you've got your shocks sorted. How are you mounting them at the chassis, those black mounts look cool. Keep up the good work and daily updates.

Cheers, Neil
To be honest mate i think at this stage it's a bit unfair to beat on HH to bad, i'm not sure if it's maybe something i did wrong.
I did try a 3S pack yesterday for a few mins, it might be a case that this weakened the motor, although it did run fine for 20 mins odd after the 3S on one of my 2S packs.
Plus i have not been in direct contact with HH yet, so they may well say it was something i'm not doing right or offer a solution

For the shock mounts i'm using some 4.2mm ball screws that i had in me screw box.





I tried these because i had difficulties finding the right tightening torque with the stock bolts.
If i went too loose the mount flopped around, to tight and the shock body wouldn't rotate under compression.

They were a temp fix as i was pretty sure they'd pop off at every opportunity, so far not one has come off though

As an engineer i'm a pretty logical guy, i understand that stuff fails nd that most the time bad luck usually turns out to be crap spannering.
Thing is though i'm driving me touring cars 3 to 4 times a week for anything up to 2 hours at a time, the off-road cars get used usually once a week again for around 1 hour.
Both get beat on pretty bad, the Blitz is doing 2m jumps pretty much constantly, because i'm drifting the TC's these are run pretty much WOT the entire time.

No failures and they're a joy to work on.

With the MRC though i can't help but feel even (to the point where it's overriding all logic) that it's cursed

Quote:
Originally Posted by billet works View Post
Glad to see you got the longer bolts in...I included some stainless ones with your steering (tuner) kit just in case.

As for your rig...the rocks you are crawling on aren't offering a great example as to it's capabilities. My mini will take a lot of 2.2 lines...especially in current trim with CVD's, outboarded shocks, and Falsenfest knuckles
It was a great tip Don, thanks mate
Great service as well

The car is THAT much better anyone reading this should do this mod.

The car was struggling a bit on those rocks, there was no real finesse needed, it was more a case of give it some throttle and see where the car goes as the rocks dictated the trucks path and the steering did nothing.
Thing is though mate we'd driven around 1 hour and that was only place we found that the car could drive on, so it's really difficult to know what sort of terrain to look for and if that terrain even exists around here.

Looking back i think that my expectations of what RC crawlers are capable of was higher than the reality.
For the local terrain you really need something that at the very least could drive up a decent set of stairs.

I don't give in easy though, i'll keep trying every ones tips, setup's etc and keep my eye out for crawling spots as i go around Athens


Cheers
Mark

Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:55 AM   #107
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Had a load of PM's about the overdrive mod, sorry guys i thought the info was in this thread at the start, but it looks like it was in another thread.

Rather than answer every PM i'll stick the info up here

I got the over drive tip from Don and Paul in posts, #2, #3 and #4 here.
A few BWD Mini Wedge Pro questions

All the info is in the thread above but basically you need to order Traxxas #7079.



Use the small drive gear (can't really see it to well in the pic above, but it's the gear i posted a pic of earlier) and disregard the larger gear.
Paul said some have not had to shim the diff others did, on mind it ran crappy and very notchy without shims, so i added shims to the diff/bearing interface to space the diff gear away from the centre drive gear.




Cheers
Mark

Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:15 AM   #108
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I had the same thing happen to my HH motor. I contacted Mr. Holmes and he said that he has had some of these motors with shotty armatures he sent me a new arm. and brushes free of charge and it works flawlessly now. If or when you get it fixed make sure you break the motor in with no more than 3volts with no load for like 10-15 minutes both directions, inspect the comm and brushes to insures they are running smooth together and you should be good to go. It sucks you have to find some rocks to drive on. I guess Im lucky to live in rural rocky country. I can drive a couple miles down the road and fill the back of a pick up with rocks for free. The only hitch is convincing the wife that we need a giant rock garden in the yard. Hope you get it sorted and actully get to have some fun. I just got mine running again and forgot how fun it was to drive.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:42 AM   #109
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Quote:
I tried these because i had difficulties finding the right tightening torque with the stock bolts.
If i went too loose the mount flopped around, to tight and the shock body wouldn't rotate under compression.
Fuel tube. Cut 1-2mm lengths, take your mounting bolt, slide on one length, slide on the shock, slide on the other length of fuel tube, then the aluminium spacer and bolt to the chassis. As I said in my PM to you I'm going to run longer bolts to move the shocks out a little with the shocks outboarded at the axle. I'll then add a slim nut after the spacer and before the chassis to enable me to tune the resistance at the shock whilst bolting the shocks firmly at the chassis. I'll the move the chassis brace next to the shock mounts to reduce flex.

Clear as mud? I'll post pics
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:45 AM   #110
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Interesting thread and thanks for sharing the tip of how to overdrive the front axle, just ordered the part.
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:26 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyw/me View Post
I had the same thing happen to my HH motor. I contacted Mr. Holmes and he said that he has had some of these motors with shotty armatures he sent me a new arm. and brushes free of charge and it works flawlessly now. If or when you get it fixed make sure you break the motor in with no more than 3volts with no load for like 10-15 minutes both directions, inspect the comm and brushes to insures they are running smooth together and you should be good to go.
Great thanks.
I've put up a post on the HH support thread so i'll see what he says later

Quote:
Originally Posted by toyw/me View Post
It sucks you have to find some rocks to drive on. I guess Im lucky to live in rural rocky country. I can drive a couple miles down the road and fill the back of a pick up with rocks for free. The only hitch is convincing the wife that we need a giant rock garden in the yard. Hope you get it sorted and actully get to have some fun. I just got mine running again and forgot how fun it was to drive.
That's the thing, i'm surrounded by rock.
I live on the side of a mountain who's marble was used to build the Parthenon.
It seems that these are to big for the MRC though as the truck just cannot get up on the rocks, never mind drive em.

We also have thousands and thousands of tons of big rocks used for sea defences around Athens, but again the height of the rocks and the gaps between them are just too much for the MRC to handle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neiloid1 View Post
Fuel tube. Cut 1-2mm lengths, take your mounting bolt, slide on one length, slide on the shock, slide on the other length of fuel tube, then the aluminium spacer and bolt to the chassis. As I said in my PM to you I'm going to run longer bolts to move the shocks out a little with the shocks outboarded at the axle. I'll then add a slim nut after the spacer and before the chassis to enable me to tune the resistance at the shock whilst bolting the shocks firmly at the chassis. I'll the move the chassis brace next to the shock mounts to reduce flex.

Clear as mud? I'll post pics
Tried that shock mounting method.
Problem i found was that as the shocks compress and expand there is a slight amount of fore and aft movement, so the top shock mount needs to pivot slightly around it's location.
With the fuel tube this pivoting was too tight for my liking.

The ball headed screws so far have performed faultlessly, if they start popping off every so often i'll look into a different solution, right now though i'm chuffed to bollox with it

Quote:
Originally Posted by biggusditchus View Post
Interesting thread and thanks for sharing the tip of how to overdrive the front axle, just ordered the part.

Didn't really do anything to be honest, thanks have to go to Don and Paul



Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:01 PM   #112
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Any phrase that starts off "I met a bloke off the internet" is usually the point where the dodgy stuff starts happening.

In this case though i met MadForce today, absolutely kick ass and top bloke
He gave me some great tips on setting up the little MRC, he also bought his XR10 along so i could see it in action and compare the 2.

Best of all though he showed me a kickass spot that's great for both the MRC and 2.2's that's only 15 mins from me house

So mega mega thanks to Spiros for his help and for still smiling after i'd crashed his kick ass XR10 for the third time

Gotta say i'm absolutely chuffed to bollox with the lil MRC after todays drive.

No doubt the XR10 is better, it gets up stuff the MRC can't even get a sniff at.
You can get up 90% of the bits the XR10 gets up, only real exceptions are the ledges and higher sections.

What really sets the XR10 apart though is, with the MRC you might get up the same line as the XR10 1 out of 10 times, with the XR10 you'll get up 9 out of 10 times.
The thing is just so much easier to drive than the MRC.

To be honest though i'm really happy at what the MRC did today, it needs a few more tweaks and as i'm back to the stock motor it's really lacking in torque and wheel speed, but the bitch did well.

BUT (you know it had to come) i had 2 shocks come out the bottom mount AGAIN (front left and rear right) and 1 of the mounts has snapped.



Carried out a temp repair so i can drive it his weekend and also put some fuel tubing in the shocks to act as a bit of a bumpstop to hopefully stop it happening again.

Any tips on gauging how much tubing to add (length wise)?

I pushed the truck down, found the point where i felt it was reaching it's limit and added that amount of tubing.

Any better methods than this?

The good thing is though, this has show the upper ball screw mounts hold up great


Only thing now is, after seeing the XR10 in action i'm contemplating buying one


Cheers
Mark

Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:03 PM   #113
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Not much been happening recently as i've been waiting in parts, what with letter bombs in Greece and the bombs on the logistic flights in the UK and US things had got a bit backed up.

After waiting 3 weeks for some bits EVERYTHING came in together today.

The Crawler Mafia 16T motor




Pack of pinions




Pro-Line Baja shell








Also ordered most of the MRC Pro front end bits to go with the ZA knuckles that arrived a few weeks back.
Seems like a lot of the Pro steering and linkage bits are not compatible with the standard MRC.

Bought these knuckles as the 3mm stepped screws come with them.




The Pro linkage




Decent servo mounts at last.




Set of new springs to make up for the one i lost.







The Axial end links, just in case.




Best RC grease i've come across, Gorilla Snawt.




Also ordered this little bag for the MRC.







Everything fits great, only downside is you need to take the separators and shelf out to get to the car


Last but by no means least a MASSIVE thank you to Neil for these foams, can't wait to try em.




I'll stick up another post in a bit with the fitting of the stuff




Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:36 PM   #114
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As i'd ran out of grease when fitting the overdrive mod i decided to strip down the axle check for wear and regrease.

There also seemed to be some confusion on fitting spacers (if needed) so i snapped a pic that should explain it better than i can.

On my car because the Traxxas gear is slightly bigger it meant that the gear mesh was very tight.
To get around this i added 4 x 0.2mm spacers to push the diff further away from the Traxxas gear.

You should be able to see the spacers in this pic.



I can't tell you the part number of the spacers i used unfortunately as they were just 4 i had in my screw box.

Measuring the axle though that the spacers and bearings have to go over your going to need 7mm internal diameter spacers.



External diameter around 9mm or 10mm should do.

So i'd look for a set of 7mm (internal) x 10mm (external) and around 0.2mm thick.



Next i did the steering.
Obviously the ZA kit needs longer steering linkages heres the difference between the stock steering linkage (shorter one) and the Pro.



That's about it really, everything went straight together.





Car is currently looking like this.









As for the Crawler Mafia motor
Carried out the run in procedure as to Pauls instructions and wow, this thing REALLY moves now, it's also very controllable as well though.
Set on a inside course and the car went straight over stuff that need a bit of patience and expertise previously.


Only shite thing now is the steering, can't wait to get me BWD kit here and fitted.


Did someone say wheelspeed

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amxmsj_bwr8




Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:51 PM   #115
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Christmas has come early for you mate ! Blimey, when you put an order in you really put an order in. Hope this little lot manages to sort your out your steering. I'd be really interested to see if those ZA aluminium knuckles work with the BWD OTA steering link - can't help thinking they won't as it looks like they closer to the axle than the standard knuckle.

Glad you got the foams, I'm sure you'll love them.

Can't wait to see how it all goes together. Cutting down that bug body is fun.....
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:03 PM   #116
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So those ZA knuckles are threaded 3mm??
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:28 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neiloid1 View Post
Christmas has come early for you mate ! Blimey, when you put an order in you really put an order in. Hope this little lot manages to sort your out your steering. I'd be really interested to see if those ZA aluminium knuckles work with the BWD OTA steering link - can't help thinking they won't as it looks like they closer to the axle than the standard knuckle.

Glad you got the foams, I'm sure you'll love them.

Can't wait to see how it all goes together. Cutting down that bug body is fun.....
Aye i've been up and down the stairs so many times checking for post, then today i needed to make 2 trips there was that much stuff

I'm chuffed to bollox with everything on the car now, only thing left is the steering.
I did start to foooook about with linkages and what not trying to install the longer servo arm, but i thought the BWD kit i'll probably be here Monday so no point putting any more time in on it.

As you can see from the vid, the circle is shite :(

I've got some delrin tubing coming, some threaded bar and with those Axial end links i'm pretty confident i'll be able to adapt the BWD kit if needed.
If i can't i'll go back to the stock knuckles as i'd much prefer better steering than ZA

If it's quiet tomorrow i'll bang the foams in then, can't wait to try em, thanks again Neil


Noooooooooooooo don't start on the cutting the shell up, i like it as is, i really really hope i can retain the wings, motor etc.
Looking unlikely though

Quote:
Originally Posted by neiloid1 View Post
So those ZA knuckles are threaded 3mm??
Nope where the knuckles mount the caps it's 2mm, i think the front linkage bar is 3mm i'll need to check.
The linkage that goes to the servo is 3mm though.




Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:21 PM   #118
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awesome rig you got there man
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:00 PM   #119
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It's getting there thanks
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:58 PM   #120
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The BWD OTA kit arrived today

Don sent the stock link and the ZA link as i'm running the Losi ZA knuckles and he had tried his kit on these knuckles before.





The standard knuckle kit is the one on the top.




Measured the Losi Pro link that is for the ZA knuckles.




The BWD ZA kit was 105mm so i didn't have to use spacers, it fit straight on

Only thing i had to do was use spacers between the knuckles and the end link, as the spacers that came with the kit were a little short.





First thing i noticed when driving was with the longer servo arm i had to turn down my EPA to 40%
Full lock to lock is around 1cm of servo arm movement.

Only thing restricting my lock now are the CVD's.
Do the Losi or MIP CVD kits give anymore steering lock?



Cheers
Mark
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