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11-24-2010, 05:09 PM | #141 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
| Worry is though, it'll just bend the shock shaft instead of popping out. Have you glued yours, any problems? How about mounting the shocks upside down? The shock ends i'll need a fair bit of force to strip their threads, even if it moves the failure point to the upper mounts, at least the shocks are easier to attach and i won't lose the spring. Anyone tried upside down Losi shocks on a MRC? Clearance ok? Cheers Mark |
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11-24-2010, 06:36 PM | #142 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
| Quote:
My fronts are upside down and I glued all of them (cups and the ball ends). The shafts just dont bite into the plastic enough so they pull out all the time. On the cups I just use a small dot of glue so I can still take it off if I want/need to but it wont just fall off. I also use small springs from a micro-t for front springs so when my tires rub it is only hitting the shock body rather than the spring. | |
11-25-2010, 02:35 AM | #143 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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It's the ball ends i'm having problems with. I'll try the shocks upside down if that doesn't work i'll try a dab of glue. Thanks Cheers Mark |
11-26-2010, 05:14 PM | #144 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
|
Few updates. The Losi CVD's came in today Been problems with the steering and binding for a while now, but didn't want to do anything to major till i saw what difference to the steering throw the CVD's made. Answer = Big improvement So with the CVD's fitted i tackled the other problems. #1 Spring and shock binding on servo mount (front) Bit of a dremel later and #1 sorted #2 OTA steering link catching on servo mount bolts. Because i'm using the Losi ZA knuckles and there is no BWD OTA for these i knew that a there might be a bit of "adjusting" needed. Dunno if these screws are a problem on the other knuckles, but of you have a BWD OTA kit it's got to be worth countersinking them. You can see where it's rubbing here. The difference. Both done #3 move the steering link up the servo arm. Couldn't do this as the servo link was catching on the OTA link causing servo stall. Bit of a play with the dremel again and sorted. Also moved the steering link 1 hole up the servo horn. Result = Fanfooooooooookintastic steering at last. Adjusted the end points and now the knuckles JUST kiss the axle. A noticeable amount of power increase and far better steering modulation. I'll test it out and see how it goes, if need be i'll dremel the knuckles and axle slightly as i have a bit more steering throw before the wheels start hitting the chassis. Also replaced the stock 60T spur with the HR 62T spur and fitted a 11T pinion, tree pulling torque FTW!!!11111 Turned all my shocks upside down, glued the cups to the end mount and glued the end mount to the shock shaft. Fingers crossed no more problems with the shaft popping out and all fingers crossed i don't need to change springs Also fitted the BEC. I will experiment a bit with battery locations next time out, as the pack is very exposed at the rear. But other than that i recon that's about it for this little bitch. I think it's now sorted Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:12 AM. |
11-26-2010, 07:09 PM | #145 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
| Quote:
Nice dremel work, good to see you've solved your bind issues. The ZA steering spindles look to push the OTA steerer further back and into the servo mount bolt heads. I'll need to look at that on mine. You can ignore the last part of my PM as these photos shOw what I was after | |
11-26-2010, 07:50 PM | #146 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Don't mention wheels Just checked out the classifieds and found i've missed out on some VP's with weights and Rover tyres Been looking for some VP's since buying the little bitch then i miss out For the OTA kit i knew i'd need to do some modifying and adjustments, so that's no problem. I think it might be better for BWD to countersink those servo mount holes in the future though just in case. Also might be a good idea to stick $5 on the kit price and include 4 x 20mm M2 bolts for the outboard shocks mod, as it doesn't seem possible to use the chassis without binding without outboarding. Even now i'm outboarded i still can't seem to use most the link/shock positions without binding. Only other thing that i thought weird was no inclusion of anything to mount the shell with. It's not a bodiless chassis, but there are no provision for mounting a shell and the stock shell mounts don't fit. So for anyone reading this that's looking to buy the BWD kit. Fantastic kit. Totally transforms the MRC from a kids toy into an accomplished crawler. Don's a great guy to deal with, very helpful, answered any communication usually within the hour. All parts and ordered despatched quickly and very well packaged. Quality of workmanship is exceptional, all well machined. There are some things you'll need to buy that i couldn't find mentioned in the instructions: 4 x 20MM M2 bolts Some method of mounting the shell Full sized servo mounts IMO all absolutely essential. Some stuff i'd do before you assemble the kit: Countersink the servo mount holes underneath the servo plate. Take a couple of mm off the rear of the servo plate IF you plan on using the front shock mounting holes. Had a bit of binding on 1 of the lower links, so if i was to build the car again i'd set aside more time and do a mock up and take some of the sharp edges off the lower links where needed. Other than that if your not going with the OTA kit you'll need stuff to make up steering linkages. Also advisable to have spacers of various sizes around. As Neil said i'll keep me eye out for some wheels. I'm gonna start looking for a new servo/link mount. The steering works fantastic now but the mount flexes more than Arnold Schwarzenegger in a 80's action movie. Seems like a odd choice of material, made worse by losing a lot of it's integrity by having lots holes cut in it Not sure if a stiffer mount will give a noticeable improvement, i'm guessing it'll give a more direct feel to the steering. Cheers Mark |
01-04-2011, 09:18 AM | #147 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
|
No updates as i've done nothing except drive the bollox off the thing. Still having the shock shafts coming out from the lower mounts, tried glue, tried new mounts, tried various lengths of silicon tubing but this inevitably ends every run. I am keeping my eye out for different shocks to try Was out t'other day with a few mates and a few off-roader RC cars and saw a tree that looked like fun. As i had the MRC in the car i thought i'd give it a bash. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQUWSd0x4VM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF88dq_nSaA Cheers Mark |
01-05-2011, 02:17 AM | #148 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 396
|
Nice looking mini tree crawler you've got there |
01-06-2011, 02:00 PM | #149 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens
Posts: 474
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Not sure if it was the height and the fact that if i fooooooked up and it dropped from 2 meters it'd be bolloxed, or just that it's because i was crawling something different. But it was good fun The other good thing is i don't recon a bigger crawler would make it up as it'd be too wide |
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