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Thread: A Total Noob's First Build Thread

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Old 11-20-2010, 01:00 AM   #1
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Default A Total Noob's First Build Thread

I've been lurking here for awhile, really unsure about this crawling business. A friend picked up an MRC a looong time ago, and I finally followed suit last weekend, grabbing a lightly used stock rtr off a local guy.

I came home, chased my cat around the living room with it, then came on here to figure out how to make it totally sick. Bought my star to start committing to the project, then dug deep into some build threads.

I went today and picked up a set of Proline Titus 1.9" Beadlocks and some Flat Irons, as a starting point while I deliberate over which way to go with the chassis.

I'd love some advice (and part numbers/reliable retailers) as far as shocks and driveline parts, I have a DTX Vendetta standing by that I can swipe the shocks from to start with, as I understand they are a direct fit/good starting point?

This one will probably start slow and hopefully end with a sweet rock crawking machine

Thanks in advance for any advice! I'd really like to do it right the first time, as I've learned the hard way with my go fast rc's, rebuying kits/parts/tires because I went too fast with unreliable information.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:03 AM   #2
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First question: are the Flat Irons a solid tire choice? He had some TSL Swampers(?) as well that I could still exchange for, as well as a few other 1.9" tires.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:20 AM   #3
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flat irons are to tall imo. i would exchange them for a set of rovers or tsl's. some people love them others dont. i really liked mine but like i said they are just to tall for my liking.

are far as chassis choices you can get a gc3, mini juice, mini wedge or even a tie moon buggy. all fantastic choices

post up some pics of your lil truck
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettness37 View Post
First question: are the Flat Irons a solid tire choice? He had some TSL Swampers(?) as well that I could still exchange for, as well as a few other 1.9" tires.
Flatirons are good (ok rovers ARE better for grip, but flatties height can give clearance advantages)

One definate thing to do to flat irons is to cut off every other set of lugs, makes them hook up much better. BIG improvement.



Rovers, X locks, flat irons (All been fited to my MRC)
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:47 AM   #5
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Hi Brett,

Welcome to the forum and welcome to MRC ownership

Can't offer much advice as i'm a noob meself, a few things i have learnt though.

The Titus wheels are shite.
The middle section that looks like its aluminium is actually cheap soft plastic.
The wheel weight system that looks good in the ad is crap, as your fitting the weight in the exact area where you want to tyres to compress.
Lastly they're bloody expensive for a set a cheap plastic wheels.

Dunno if you've bought yours already or if you can exchange them, but if i could change 1 thing in my build i'd have bought some VP LH Procomps instead.

Buy some delrin tube, screws and Traxxas end links.
A lot of this hobby is DIY and even if you buy a top notch chassis kit there is a very good chance that there will things you want to swap around and change.

If your looking for a new motor i can't recommend the Crawler Mafia motor high enough.
Smooth as a fresh Brazilian on a silk sheet, lots of go when needed.
I'm running the 16T and it's mental, i'd probably go for the 17T if i was to do it again.

Alternatively, if you can't be arsed messing about cutting bits of delrin and testing different shocks positions, put your MRC back up on a ebay and buy the MRC Pro

As i say i can't offer much advice as i simply don't have much experience, but take a gander through my thread to see the bits i choose.


Cheers
Mark
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Old 11-20-2010, 11:59 AM   #6
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Thanks for the comments guys!


Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr6fs View Post
Hi Brett,


The Titus wheels are shite.
The middle section that looks like its aluminium is actually cheap soft plastic.
The wheel weight system that looks good in the ad is crap, as your fitting the weight in the exact area where you want to tyres to compress.
Lastly they're bloody expensive for a set a cheap plastic wheels.

Dunno if you've bought yours already or if you can exchange them, but if i could change 1 thing in my build i'd have bought some VP LH Procomps instead.
Burn! I was so excited about them I opened them up and started messing about with them last night (no returns on opened product). Was surprised to find they only have a ring on one side and that they were plastic So it begins

I totally would have gone with the Vanquish, but they were sold out. Should have been my first clue that there were 5-6 sets of the Titus on the wall and nothing else in the shop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr6fs View Post

Alternatively, if you can't be arsed messing about cutting bits of delrin and testing different shocks positions, put your MRC back up on a ebay and buy the MRC Pro
Yeah, I was looking at that last night anyway (damn insomnia). By the time I replace the shocks, hubs, lockers, spindles... I'm looking at nearly the price of the Pro.

Should I pack this rtr in and just shift gears? Is the Pro a serious crawler out of the box? Or am I still better to grab all the upgrades/a Pro and a Mini Wedge/Mini Juice?
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:31 PM   #7
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Hi and welcome

If you want performance on a plate day one then chop in the RTR and get the Pro - so long as you have the motor, electronics and a decent servo. If you are fiddler/fettler and want something that you have had a say in creating then get yourself a chassis kit. They come in all shapes and sizes from just the chassis to near complete (Upper and lower links, servo plates, etc)

Have fun and read, then read some more. There is a wealth of info on this site and a great deal of knowledge. The chassis fabricators and sponsored drivers are also regular contributors and more than happy to help - where else would you get that?
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:58 PM   #8
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Depends on what you want.

The Pro seems to crawl great straight out the box, bits Pro bits i've fitted on my MRC went straight on, no faffing no adjustments just bolt straight on and drive off.

The aftermarket stuff often needs fettling.
On my BWM Mini wedge chassis it really only started to work after the shocks had been outboarded.
Then because of a cock up on my part i ended up with a odd mix of steering parts, so had to chop and change stuff around to see what worked.

Through all this Don from BWD and the other lads on here have talked me through it and helped me.

So for me the best part of this build so far is experimenting and fitting new stuff then adjusting it to get it work.

If you like me then your probably better off ordering the kit of your choice then building each individual section EXACTLY to the spec you want.
On everyone of my RC's i've spent many an hour reading and searching to find what works best where, for me that's a big draw to this hobby, if there was a truck that you bought and just drove i'd be bored straight away.

As i say i'm still a noob so please take that into account before going on my advice, but it's really up to you on what you want for a truck, a driver or a project.
In my (very inexperienced) view there is very little to separate the top chassis that "crawlher" mentioned in post #3, on performance alone, a good driver could probably win with any just as easy as with a Pro, so it's just picking your maker and going for it


Cheers
Mark


Cheers
Mark
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