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Old 01-04-2011, 11:15 PM   #21
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Great Job Erik, I wish they had the 20* knuckles for the MRC like they do for the LCC. I looks like you are going to smash your servo with it pointed like that.
Ok, so your comment about the servo pointed down interested me....

I knew it was pointed down but I didnt really put too much thought into it. I just thought it was the compromise that I was going to have to take in order to have a better pinion angle.

I did some measuring...

All of this is pretty approximate but hopefully you will get the idea.

A full size servo with the axle in the stock clocked position will be approx 1" out from center line and approx 1.25" from the ground.

The above is just the servo case. If you want to add the servo horn, it would be approx 1.360" out from center line and approx .850 from the ground.

The way I had the servo was approx 1" out from center line and approx .750 from the ground.

So, even though it was out and pointed down it was still better than stock steering.

It really made me take a second look at the setup. I dont know why it had to stick out so far. I drilled some holes .380 further back on the plate so I could bring the servo in towards the vehicle.

Now the servo case measures approx .650" out from center line and approx .750 from the ground. Pretty good. It also helped with my steering geometry. I was not too fond of my drag link having a crazy bend and also the angle when full turned. It is now much more straight.


Pushed back



Drive shaft angle still good and above lower links



Before:




After:

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Old 01-04-2011, 11:22 PM   #22
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Nice job. I bet the wheelspeed will be sweet with all the weight out of the wheels and on the knuckles.
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:51 AM   #23
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That looks much safer for the servo.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:40 PM   #24
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Well,... I got it all figured out tonight.

I went out and bought a new ESC and motor. I was super nervous to hook my battery up to it but I did anyway. I must have held my fingers on the ESC checking for heat and had my nose right up to it all while holding the battery connection, ready to pull the battery at the first sign of failure All went well though and it runs good. I just hope doing the bit of carpet crawling that I did with the 3s does not ruin it for me when I run 2s.

I figured out that I will need a lot of tuning in my shocks and I really hope my foam shows up. The fronts are way too flat/soft since I had them channeled for a lot of weight.

Some pictures...

I went ahead and did a mod that I have on my LCC. I figured since I have chromoly pins in my axle shafts now I might as well upgrade to the bigger chromoly pin. These make a huge difference. Nobody has broken one in the LCC I am sure I will not break one on this thing.
http://www.dluxfab.com/products



Installed electronics. I would have liked to put them on my upper links but my driveshaft is higher all the way to the axle. I might rethink this later but I think it will be fine for now.





Overall shot of the steering



Overall shot of the car without body



Couple of body shots...





I am going to take this thing out tomorrow and hopefully tune it a bit. I just need my 2s batteries that will hopefully be here tomorrow.

Last edited by Erik D_lux; 08-27-2011 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:59 AM   #25
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Awesome work!!! are you using the 20deg knuckles or just clocking back the stock knuckles? This mod makes it super easy to run the LCC CVD's as well!!!
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:07 PM   #26
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Awesome work!!! are you using the 20deg knuckles or just clocking back the stock knuckles? This mod makes it super easy to run the LCC CVD's as well!!!
I dont think it would matter if you ran 10* or 20*. You just stick them on, turn them (round so you can clock anywhere) until you have your desired caster and then screw them on. I have a couple of pictures and can elaborate if you like. Really though, simple mod.

Shafts, C's, Knuckles, steering hardware, king pins, bearings all bigger and better and also the ability to run knuckle weights. Seems pretty obvious to me when all you need are the parts and a drill/tap.
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:31 PM   #27
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Nice Work!
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:25 PM   #28
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Damn dude, very nice work.
I need to look at my BTA again and see if moving the servo back will help my draglink clear.
i have nothing to suggest other than rovers and nova single foams. But chisels may be your preference.
And the MiniJuice chassis is very well laid out for no binding and shock angles.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:41 PM   #29
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VERY NICE!!!
Way to think behond the norm
I think this as probably my fav mod,I give it 5 stars

Last edited by rock hard; 01-06-2011 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:39 AM   #30
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Thanks guys.

Shell: I actually did just get Nova foams today. That guy has always given good service and good parts at a great price! I ordered two soft and two medium. He hooked me up with some extras which were very nice too. I think the softs maybe a touch too soft for me in the front and the medium seems a touch too stiff in the rear. I think I can cut some foam down in the rear and be good. I am going to test my rig out first though and see how I like it. I am thinking now I will order some more mediums and see if I can get them cut down in the front and be good. I think they will.

I am just running Chisels because its what came with the rig. I figured I will give them a chance and see how I like them. I really want the Rovers because I know they work good on the 2.2. I just told myself that I was going to contain myself and not spend much money on this. LOL, yeah right. Anybody gone from Chisels to Rovers and want to give an opinion?

So, I am stressing about lipos for Saturdays comp. I ordered 1 from a vendor (Sunday) and the vendor tells me there is no tracking number, good luck! I also bought some from the classifieds on here (Tuesday). Dude was all over it and shipped really fast. I should have had them no later than today (priority) but,... the package looks like it took a right instead of a left. Last known location is in Maine!!!! LOL. Seriously, could it get further away?
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:55 AM   #31
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Lol. Just tracked the lipos that were in Maine again. USPS now says they are in Salt lake city @1:20 am. WTF? Its 1am now... Hopefully its right and my lipos will be here tomorrow(today now).
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:12 AM   #32
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Lol. Just tracked the lipos that were in Maine again. USPS now says they are in Salt lake city @1:20 am. WTF? Its 1am now... Hopefully its right and my lipos will be here tomorrow(today now).

that sucks! I paid for 2-3 priority and shipped out monday!
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:42 PM   #33
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Great mod Dlux. I read here but I am a little slow so work with me here. It looks to me like you took the stock c's bearings and all and pulled off the screw posts. Then you slid the lcc c-hubs over the mrc c-hubs, locked those suckers down and them popped on the knuckles. I think I get all that. Now onto th cvd part. Is the spacing right now on the mrc cvd's to work as a plug and play?? Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:53 PM   #34
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Great mod Dlux. I read here but I am a little slow so work with me here. It looks to me like you took the stock c's bearings and all and pulled off the screw posts. Then you slid the lcc c-hubs over the mrc c-hubs, locked those suckers down and them popped on the knuckles. I think I get all that. Now onto th cvd part. Is the spacing right now on the mrc cvd's to work as a plug and play?? Thanks.
Yep. Here, I will try to explain a bit more in detail

Take off everything on the MRC from the Cs out. Now you will just have a axle housing.

Grab your LCC Cs and you need to mill/hole saw the part that slides onto the MRC housing. The MRC housing is 1/2" diameter and the LCC Cs something like .485 diameter. It will not slide on in stock form. You cannot use a drill bit, you have to use a hole saw type because you only want to make the diameter bigger on the LCC C, you dont want to make it deeper or the axle shafts will not sit right and possibly bind in the locker.

I used a hole saw like this one:



An actual hole saw might be too sloppy and too out of round. I am not sure. A mill would be great if you have one.

Now the toughest part. I took the bottom of the LCC C and ground a flat spot where I could get a drill bit to start. I drilled it out to a #56 drill size and went from one end to another (see picture). Take your time with this and do not force the drill bit. You want it to be a straight as possible and that tiny drill bit will walk. Get this hole as close to the edge as possible. You dont have much room to work with as the MRC axle housing does not stick into the LCC C very far. Now that I was all the way though I took the top of the C that did not have the flat spot on it and I drilled that out to a 3/64 drill and on the bottom I re drilled to a #52 (I think) drill bit. Back to the spot where I drilled a 3/64 bit I then tapped that hole for a 0-80 screw. After that, you should have something that looks like the below part:






Now that you have the completed piece above you should be able to put it on the MRC axle housing and rotate it to where you want to set your caster. Once you have your caster, take your #52 (I think) drill bit and start drilling the MRC housing through the LCC C hole that is not tapped. Take this real slow again, you dont want that bit to walk. Start drilling and every once in awhile take the C off to make sure your bit is not walking and about to come through the MRC plastic. Take this all the way to the threaded holes in the LCC C. Now you should have 2 holes in the MRC housing that line up with the 2 holes in the LCC C. Take a 0-80 x 1" screw (dont go cheap on this part. Get either stainless or if you can find an allen drive that is best) and start it on the threaded side. Thread it down all the way until it comes out the bottom, ground flat part of the C. Finish the other 3 holes the same way.

Now you just need to assemble everything just like it was on and LCC. C's, kingpins, knuckles, bearings and outer stub shaft are all from an LCC. The inner shaft will come from the MRC CVD kit. I got this idea from Krawlfreaks build. The stub shafts and the MRC inner shafts are not an exact fit but they are close and I do not see any draw backs yet from using them. The MRC and LCC stub/bells are slightly different. MRC = .300 LCC = .310.





I am sure I left out a lot of details but that should help. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Last edited by Erik D_lux; 01-07-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:00 PM   #35
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I got the batteries and went out and drove this thing today.

I have to be honest. I didnt know if I would even like the 1.9. I was starting to doubt it more and more. I really just did it for something to do and get some more comp time in. After running it today it totally changed my mind! I took my LCC and the MRC out and I wanted nothing to do with the MRC! I could not believe the lines I was able to pull off with this thing. It was great! I cant wait for the comp tomorrow. This thing just does everything I tell it to.

I am sure most everybody in here is used to how small these things are but I am still getting used to it. My 2.2 feels like a monster now. I cant get over how tiny the batteries are either LOL



Lastly, I thought this picture was really cool. Talk about tight clearances from every direction!

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Old 01-08-2011, 07:48 PM   #36
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Nice work! Way to think outside the box, much like your LCC.

- Chris
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:04 AM   #37
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Been working on the mini. However, I am not sure I should be updating it in here anymore but, I dont know where to put it?....

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Old 02-08-2011, 01:23 AM   #38
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You freak.
That's like the 1.9 version of 5 ton rockwells.
Cool man, cool.

That little 380 motor runs them ok?
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:47 AM   #39
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Wow crazy!!! Let see some more pics!!
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:02 AM   #40
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OK now I want to do that, awesome, totally awesome.
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