02-08-2011, 08:30 PM | #41 | |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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Its defiantly a LCC. Its not crazy on power but it has more wheel speed than it did stock. I really need to get a real motor in before I comment. When it was all MRC axles it was weak with torque and wheel speed was poor also. I got the LCC axles in and done first and ran it with the MRC trans to see how it would do. I have never felt torque like that in my life! It was jaw dropping. I bet I could have wedged the tire and broke the chassis in half. With the MRC trans being ballpark 7:1 and worms approx 23:1 you can imagine. It was obviously slow though too. Full throttle I could not even come close to saving a backwards roll. If I didnt have to save a backwards roll or out run myself going down hill it actually crawled really well. I was really impressed with how it crawled. I guess going from a LCC shafty to a MRC shafty I was less than impressed. Now it feels more normal to me. I figured I had to get some better gearing for it to work better. Doing some research I figured some stuff out. Looks like the MRC and the rest of the Losi mini stuff is pretty compatible. You can use a 50t spur gear intended for the LST2. LOSB0935. It would probably really speed the MRC up. I am not sure what pinion you might have to use to make up for the diameter though. I also found that the mini-t and MRC trans are pretty similar. I would like to know if the internals have the same bearing spacing and if I could simply transplant the mini-t gearing into the MRC trans and give me 2.7:1 instead of the 7:1. Even if you cant swap internals I might still try a stock mini T trans. Doing the mini-t and a 50t spur with 20 or so tooth pinion is my next step if the LCC trans does not work. I think it will still be slow but I am good with tons of torque and just enough wheelspeed to get me out of trouble. That combo might actually be good for me. I had to lengthen my driveshaft in the back when I ran the MRC trans. Now I put the LCC trans in and it needs to be stock length again . I am waiting on parts to see how it runs with the current combo. Just being in front dig (rear locked from worms) it does ok. I got all hard core on a dog bed (think comforter) and wrapped the bed around a wheel pretty good before it stalled. 2s is decent but 3s was much better. It also sucks a lot of power just like the LCC. I dont know if my 360mah batteries will make a course anymore. Might have to get bigger 3s batteries. Anybody know a motor that will take 3s and a lot of abuse? Fast too? I am running a 12t pinion now. I have a 9t on the way though. Anybody know of a smaller pinion than 9t? Do they make anything that small? | |
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02-08-2011, 08:38 PM | #42 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
| Here are a couple I have... Homemade motor plate and cut down LCC trans. If you wanted to get crazy you could run dig I also need to think about swapping in aluminum parts to bring weight and rotating weight down. I want to make sure the entire idea will work first though. I still have lots to fine tune. The rear ended up being a bit over 1/8" wider than the front. I would like to find a wheel that will really suck the rear end in. Anybody have an idea? I would need a beadlock. Searching said hummer beadlocks, trail readys or some race car wheels that I need to glue the tires on. None of those are great option IMO. I may have to machine some... need my mill first. |
02-08-2011, 08:39 PM | #43 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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02-10-2011, 11:26 PM | #44 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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I got the 9t transmission along with some of the other parts needed today. Got it all together and it runs, actually it drives amazing. That little motor even with the 9t pinion is not going to cut it. It would barely be ok on 3s but its kinda like, well, running a losi on a brushed motor LOL. It just does not suit me. So on to the final plan,... Mini T transmission setup. Anybody have a need for a mini LCC trans setup? I may just get a new case and sell it but it would be cool to find somebody that needs it. |
02-11-2011, 05:45 PM | #45 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 657
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When I ran my LCC, bushless was the only way to go. Maybe put a 540 moter back on your LCC tranny or a Mongoose or Losi Xcelorin
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02-11-2011, 05:49 PM | #46 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: EvilCrawlerDesigns@comcast.net
Posts: 3,510
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02-11-2011, 06:06 PM | #47 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 657
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02-11-2011, 07:14 PM | #48 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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I should have a decent motor on the way. I am trying to keep costs resonable as I dont even know if the idea will work. I just cant see dropping $100 on a motor ESC and not use them later. I am hoping with my new motor and the Mini-T trans on the way that it will be the ticket. I know it will crawl really good but just not sure if it will have enough wheel speed. Hopefully it has enough just to get by, after using these axles I really dont want to give them up. |
02-21-2011, 09:42 PM | #49 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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It up and running! I installed the mini-t trans. It worked out really, really well. 2.7:1 for this trans vs. stock at 7.something:1 The mini t came out lighter and smaller too. In hindsight, I could not be happier that the LCC trans failed. I am glad I didnt have to add weight to the chassis. It still is a bit slow but I have lots of options to work with right now. I am thinking a 10.5 or 13.5 Mongoose system might be one of my next moves. I would also like to try a smaller spur. 58, 54 or 50 if I can get them to work. I think the right turn brushless, 3s batteries and a smaller spur gear and this thing will rip. Has more room in all directions You can see the size difference from the stock MRC trans. Most of the difference comes from the idler gear being bigger for more reduction. Random rear shot |
02-21-2011, 09:45 PM | #50 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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Here is the current ride height. I am really excited that with this new setup I will be able to run pink springs in the rear. I didnt like running stiffer springs to help with the torque twist. Hopefully with the new springs I will have it slug really low. I also think I am ready for a new chassis. I could build my GC3. Not sure if I want to do that or go bodiless. |
02-21-2011, 09:52 PM | #51 |
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Here is an interesting thought that I had for you losers without an overdrive The Mini-T trans comes with spider gears where the locker would go on the MRC. If you were to fit these spider gears into the MRC trans, would that not put power to the axle that has less traction (front on climbs)? It could act as a really good dig, without having dig. I suppose going down hill could suck if only the rear was spinning though? Somebody needs to try it. |
02-23-2011, 01:42 PM | #52 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: E LEE, NV
Posts: 589
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That sounds great at first but the more I thought it it I think it will have a negitive effect on times when your truck has the fronts on the ground and the rears are off the ground but if you ran a really thick grease in it you may be able to blip the throttle to help overcome the diff. Just a thought, I like the idea. I've only had my mini for about 4 days so take that into consideration lol
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02-23-2011, 02:42 PM | #53 |
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Yeah, I suppose any time you were high centered etc it could really screw you. This is taking the assumption that it completely loses power. I am not sure if it does? Anybody have a stock mini-t that can tell us how the different axles work?
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02-23-2011, 09:37 PM | #54 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
Posts: 1,901
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with the massive gear reduction within the axles................. have yo considerd direct drive? the pti goliath was like that,and isnt the moa lcc kit basicall a direct drive? Just motor with pinion matched to a spure,then direct drive to the axles. That should be fast enough dpending on your spur/pinion combo. and you can lose all the weight of a trans housing and its gears. |
02-23-2011, 11:58 PM | #55 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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Thats a really interesting thought. Something I will keep in mind for sure. I finally got everything to a point where it is good enough to drive in a comp. It actually faster with that 17t motor than my rig was stock and a 33t motor. I went ahead and got a mongoose on the way, 13.5t. I am thinking it is calling for 3s too. I think I can get this rig much faster and with much more power than stock.. |
02-24-2011, 12:20 AM | #56 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
Posts: 1,901
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Here is a picture of a typical direct drive setup. The pti setup placed the motor ontop of the spur,that makes alot of top weight.I feel something simular could be done placing the motor beside the spur,keeping the weight down low. I dont think a alum motor plat is neccessary,I'd consider carbon. |
02-24-2011, 08:23 AM | #57 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,848
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This is the kind of outside the box thinking that makes the crawling community so much fun. Keep it up. The MRC platform needs some competition even if it is from a LLC. Now on to my concerns. Is all this R&D work putting you behind on my berg knuckle weight project????????? If so cut it out. Just kidding. Keep up the cool stuff. RickM |
03-16-2011, 12:48 AM | #58 |
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I finally got some more time to work on this. Good thing too. I have my first comp with it this weekend. When I sat back and looked at what I had there were a lot of compromises. I always fool myself into thinking I can just buy something and make it work and be happy with it. I really need to understand/learn that I like the best of the best and to get that from the beginning. Some of the best advice is "Poor people cant afford to be cheap". It holds true and I always find myself buying parts over and over. So, I upgraded some stuff. First off I wanted a bodiless chassis. I am fed up with running bodies. I really liked the BJ and the T1E. The BJ was out of stock so it made my choice pretty simple. I am pretty stoaked about it. Roll overs now seem possible, I am loving the angled skid and the super narrow chassis. |
03-16-2011, 02:03 AM | #59 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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I ditched the Chisels for the Rovers. I am not sure how much difference it made with the little time I have on this car. Some other big changes for me were straight lower front links and putting the steering in the front. I had to do both to get everything to clear. Everything was tight up there. I will have to see how I like both. I upgraded my 7955tg servo for a 7950 on 7.4v. I wanted to do this as I could ditch the BEC and just go straight to the battery. There is not much you can do to minimize in these cars so I am taking what I can get. It really cleaned up the wiring too. It was also a good excuse to buy a 7980 for my LCC and put the 7950 in here. LOL |
03-16-2011, 10:01 AM | #60 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: appleton
Posts: 2,067
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Nice build thread thanks for sharing.
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