Dlux mini build

[Erik D_lux]

Right now I am at:
7 3/8 rear
7 3/4 front

I can change both pretty easily. I have the huge RCP hexes on the front that I could swap out for standard ones to bring the width way down. I am running standard hexes on the back and could add the bigger ones to get wider too. I used to run the rear at 7 3/4ish and I think I actually liked it better. I may go back to that soon.

[98sahara]

Dood this thing is epic. It's getting my wheels turning

[Voteban]

F**k yeah this is beautiful and I can't wait to get my pro in a week.

[Erik D_lux]

I did a little rebuild on this car. My goals were to get more wheel speed, get better fitting shocks and to move some weight around.

First off I took Rock Hard's idea of doing a direct drive setup. I spent many, many an hour on this little project and had really high hopes for it. Making the setup was not hard at all. Getting it to fit in this chassis was! After about 8 hours of designing and redesigning I finally got it to fit. I first drove it with a 54 tooth spur, not a chance that would work. No problem though, I made it adjustable all the way up to the 62 tooth. I tried that with no luck either. I finally came to the conclusion that either way you go about it, you need to have close to the same reduction as my mini-t trans gave. I think you would need atleast a 90t spur gear for this to work and there just is not enough room in the chassis to support it.

So, I ended up ditching the direct drive idea and going back to the mini-t trans. I have avoided 3s because I did not want to run a BEC or the larger batteries. I finally sucked it up and am now running both. The BEC fit on my front axle and I am running a Gens ace 3s 450mah on my rear links now. I am really liking this much better than being in the chassis. My down hills were suffering a bit and I needed some more weight back there anyway.

I am really liking this setup so far. I felt I had plenty of wheelspeed for the first time after running the higher voltage, so much so that I reduced my gearing for more torque. I think I will be going back to more wheelspeed though as the motor did not even get close to being hot and I would like the speed, torque has never been too much of a problem with this car.

Pictures of the direct drive:





Would have been really nice to lose all that sprung weight too.

39g for a stock trans


16g for the direct drive.

[Erik D_lux]

Next up was the shocks. As you can see in the picture below I had to lay the shocks all the way down in order to get the ride height I wanted.



I am liking my shocks more in the vertical position these days and I wanted to at least have the option of moving them if I want. After some research I found that the mini-t shocks were a pretty good length for me. The nice thing is that they already come with pink springs and the silver springs for the rear. Not sure that I like the silver springs. They feel much stiffer than a pink to me. I think I may make some spacers so I can run pinks all the way around.

Here is a shot of the threaded Losi shocks next to the rear mini-t and then the front mini-t. They ended up being close to the perfect size for my car.

[Erik D_lux]

The only thing I did not like about the shocks was the top mounting hole. I ended up taking on of my big bore shock ends, turning it down just a hair and then drilling out the eye on the shocks. Worked out pretty good.

[Erik D_lux]

Another thing that came to light for me was the wheel nuts. I know its pretty simple but I have always struggled to keep the wheel nuts tight. After building my Berg I found that the stock wheel nuts they use were serrated on the back. I never had one back off. Then I got super 300's and rear straight axles, they both came with a standard nylock nut and I never had an issue. So, now that I had my stock Berg wheel nuts sitting around I found that I could put them on my mini. No more loose wheel nuts on the mini now either! Sweet.

Excuse the great picture.

[Erik D_lux]

As I put in the above post, I moved the battery out back moving it from the chassis. I made a simple battery tray. I am thinking I may even change this though. I think I may make a mount that moves it totally onto the rear axle and change it from a velcro strap to having the velcro right on the mount. That strap is a pain. Oh, I also added .75oz of weight to each lockout. This thing down hills much better with the weight moved and wheel speed to drive out of the down hill.

[Jslick]

Looks Great Erik.

[Voteban]

Hey Erik, does UTRCRC still do comps or are you competing with a different group? I'm also in Utah and I'm about to build up an MRC Pro, so I'd like to put it (and my driving skills) up against some crazy dudes like you!

[Erik D_lux]

801rcc does the comps for the 1.9's and 2.2's. We comp once a month, usually the first or second weekend and its at many different locations. You can check info here:

http://eight01rcc.freeforums.org/

[WAM]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I have the huge RCP hexes on the front.

Would those be these?
http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.p...&cat=17&page=1

If not, do you have a link?

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by WAM

Would those be these?
http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.p...&cat=17&page=1

If not, do you have a link?

Yep, thats them.

Be aware though that they are made for bigger hex pins. I think some are just dealing with the slop but you could also have the option of drilling the stubs and running the bigger hex pins. They are on my web site.