Broken MRC Pro chassis plate
 

I managed to break one of the chassis plates on my MRC Pro.
I'm not sure when it happened. I comped with it last weekend.
I was just getting ready to make some adjustments when I noticed the broken chassis plate.

I've attached a picture to show where it broke.
It is cracked in the same location at the other end of the chassis plate.

http://myrcmt.com/review/images/gall...oken_Plate.jpg


Has anyone else here had this issue? I don't want to replace it with the same piece if it's going to happen again.

I haven't heard of a chassis cracking yet.
Hopefully you can get this resolved. Maybe PM Jake and take an actual pic of the crack/s.

good luck man"thumbsup"

I've broken a total of 3 sideplates. Not much you can do aside from be easy on it while driving or make some thin aluminum braces that copy the lower half of the chassis. I'd consider myself to be on the extreme side of being hard on my 1.9 though, I usually drive it like a slash:ror:

I've seen this guy drive and he ain't lyin. I am waiting for mine to break. I might just make some braces before it happens.

Yep i know one guy from Washington also broke or cracked his.

Thanks guys, I may need to look at something else for a replacement piece.
Carbon fiber is sweet, but not of it's going to be breaking.

Mine broke in the same spot. Got new side plates and superglued the edges and so far I havent broke it.

pro plates
 

So you glued just the edges of the sideplates?

Yep you glue all the edges with super glue. It's an old trick we used to do in 1/10 pan cars it keeps it from splitting, If the chassis is going to break in half or shater it's going to do it no matter what but splitting is the start most of the time.

Im glad I went with the gc3. this thing is a tank. I like carbon fiber but where I run I cant be falling off a rock cliff and have chassis breaking. anyone go back to the gc3 with all the other MRCpro goodies?

I'm glad I didn't get the pro roller, cracked chassis = no good. I just built up a rtr to pro level or better.

Pics?

I would also like to see this rtr build that is just as good or better than MRCpro. So post a pic or post your build thread, or make a build thread. (or there is no such mrc that you speak of) :lmao: JK but seriously is it a gc3 or what chassis is it? Cause the stock chassis is nothing compared to the mrcpro .:shock:

I found a pic of it looks like the mixer chassis. With horrible battery placement (hope you moved that thing down) but I know how it is with no room for a nimh batt. I like my 430mah 2s lipo. But on the real that is a nice chassis bro.

I'm still glad I went with the pro roller.
I think it's a great starting point.
I just wish that the chassis plates were a little more durable.

Then again, it wouldn't be any fun if didn't get to upgrade something right? ;-)

I want to dig into something here. I looked at the pic and the location of the break and something jumped out at me immediately. that break is right on a drilled hole and it is also at a part of the chassis that should have some reinforcement from the skid. All that to say, to me it should not break at that location from hard driving. Is there anything applying excessive pressure on that part of the side plate? Would it help to take a sliver of carbon and apply it over the bottom of the chassis and dissapate some of the pressure of that one screw on that one hole? Maybe even epoxy it over the side plate and give it some girth.

you could just get some GC3 side plates,skid it should be a direct replacement for all your other parts.I dont think you will ever break it"thumbsup" its the OG

I did check the local hobby shops with info on the MRC pro, and what I've heard were both good and bad with the same issues of cracking of the plates. I did a little bit of research and ordered a GC3 chassis on ebay buy it now $39.87 plus $4.80 shipping. Considering other sites still has them for $59.99 and up. I guess we'll see how this differs from the MRC pro chassis.

What is the diff in chassis..... First off you have Weight, upper link points for anti-squat and adjustable shock points.
I think the skid is wider too I'm pretty sure.