gc3 wiring

[rainierbeer]

Hey everybody i just put my gc3 together tonight and am wondering how everybody else wired thiers so if you gus would post some pics it would be appreciated.

[Gfresh]

I loved wiring my GC-3 up. Took my time over it. I started from scratch - stripped out ALL the stock wiring. Soldered in new wires from ESC (very fiddly - needs some decent solder skills, esp for the on/off wire and the esc/rx wire).
(I wired up a BEC and the ESC on off to a dual rail switch, so that one switch turned on oth the esc and bec. Rather than having the BEC always powered up when battery connected. This was maybe a step further than most need!)
I also wrapped the wiring in blue braiding to keep it tidy, protected and look a bit nice!

I fitted mini deans to all components (motor connection, BEC power, ESC on off connection to switch) and normal deans to battery.
Heres some photos from a few months back:







heres how it finally ended up, x=locks, grappler shell, HH 33t motor:

[Gfresh]

Don't forget, now (when building) is the best time to do the completely essential and pretty easy GC-3 mods - to get rid of the binding of the lower links and get rid of the binding of the uppers on the shocks:

Shocks: outboard the lower mount (see photo 2 and 5 above). Stops shocks hitting the upper links.

Lower links: file the opening of the skid plate, to increase it by about 4mm. Then replace the GC-3 rod ends (at the skid) with traxxas revo shock ends (they have the flanged ball), this gives a great increase in the articulation of the links, it smooths out the suspension lots. Made a massive difference on the rocks with mine, allowed me to run softer springs and really get the suspension cycling better. Improved stability too, especially at the extremes.

[Gfresh]

battery (on mine) was located on that black plastic tray I made (from an old DVD case). I use 850mah 2S lipos. They fit perfectly between the GC-3 chassis plates (31mm wide).
This position keepw the weight low and up front too, and doesn't interfere with the links movement.

[Gfresh]

RX,
I turfed the reciever board out of its casing. Then wrapped in clear heat shrink.
It is lighter and much much smaller now. It then fits very well under the rear black plastic chassis spacer (use double sided foam tape / servo tape to secure). The pins point up with just enough room to plug everything in.

You need to check everything clears the links and spur gear etc, keep tidy with small zip ties/cable ties.

I had to make sure the ESC wires allowed the rear to move ok, it was close - with all the braiding and thicker wires I used - it was just nicely flexible enough and didn't touch anywhere.

Lots of time spent on that GC-3 (and now I run a mini juice, but the GC-3 lives on with another fellow crawler).

[rainierbeer]

thank you that helped alot i plan on have a couple pics up in a day or two you will have to check it out