Tranny gears, high torque low-pro servo, and knuckles... What do I have for options?

[89redranger]

So, here's the deal... I've recently (last couple of months) put together my Mini Crawler Pro and have been modding and abusing it non-stop since.

It's come to a point where I'm really starting to crank on it, and the stock plastic parts just hate life.

Plastic Factory Knuckles-better off in the trash. Both knuckles are stripped out and are getting replaced. I have a little more planned than just replacing them with aluminum. I'd like to go to a BTA steering setup with the knuckles flipped side to side to place the tie rod COMPLETELY behind the axle. Which knuckles would be the best to start with? Should I go Losi Aluminum, or use the RCBros High-steer knuckles? I have no idea...


Hitec 645MG Servo-too deep of a profile to run with the servo horn behind the axle, tougher than nails but sluggish and easy to stall with sticky weighted tires and wide hexes pushing the scrub radius out with locked diffs front/rear...

I need a standard full size mount servo that is low profile (shallow depth I guess) and has torque somewhere around 170-190oz@ my BEC's 6V output. Got any ideas guys? I need less overhang off the front axle with my servo facing behind the axle.

Plastic tranny gears-brushless system turned the teeth of the tranny gears into dust in the case. Need metal gears... What're my options there, only Hot Racing?

Thanks for the help guys! The sun is coming and I can't wait to really get out on the rocks with this thing!

[Psychomonkey RC]

If you want a BTA with the stock four link plate you will probable have to fab it up yourself. I did one on my Minijuice and it took the better part of a day to get right. The upper links are just right in the way for a BTA. I set up my wife's mini with 3mm SS rod for a tie rod with some added castor. It all tucks in very nice. It's also much easier to do.
As for servo alot of people run the low profile Futaba 9551 (I think). I really like to have more power than what they can put out. I have one mini running over 300oz and one over 400oz. Maybe overkill but it can get you out of a jam.
HR is the only company to make metal gears for the transmission.
Psycho

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Psychomonkey RC

If you want a BTA with the stock four link plate you will probable have to fab it up yourself. I did one on my Minijuice and it took the better part of a day to get right. The upper links are just right in the way for a BTA. I set up my wife's mini with 3mm SS rod for a tie rod with some added castor. It all tucks in very nice. It's also much easier to do.
As for servo alot of people run the low profile Futaba 9551 (I think). I really like to have more power than what they can put out. I have one mini running over 300oz and one over 400oz. Maybe overkill but it can get you out of a jam.
HR is the only company to make metal gears for the transmission.
Psycho

I'm actually ordering the RCBros Servo/4-link plate for the front and the "buggy 4-link" plate for the rear.

I wanna get the knuckles for the MRC that bolt together (can't figure out how to get them though?) because they have the highsteer arms on top of them. I've also seen them with double ended arms which would mean that I could face my servo rearward with the draglink behind the axle and run my tierod as in the RCBros BTA kit (from in front of the axle up and under the servo plate then back down and forward to the other side).

[4xFord]

RCBros has Zero Ackerman high steer knuckles for the MRC, you should see if you can add them to the order.

http://cart.rcbros.com/product_info.php?products_id=265

[89redranger]

Overdrive mod done as of last night!

I thought I had an issue with the pinion being stripped in the front axle so I finally went and got the Mini E-Revo pinion for the front. Tore it all down, slapped the pinion in, and put it all back together.

What I had thought to be a stripped pinion turned out to be a problem with the gear lash. From the factory the tolerances were loose enough that I could not only do the bigger pinion without any mods, but I actually had to use the washer from behind the factory pinion to tighten things up. Things were REALLY loose feeling, so I put that factory washer between the toothed head of the pinion and the diff case to get rid of the slack in the drivetrain.

Doing the same in the rear REALLY made this thing feel tight and responsive! The only slop in the drivetrain now is at the driveshaft joints (have MIP CVD shafts, waiting for these to break), and in the factory metal lockers (can't do much about it...).

I honestly can't believe that these things have so much slop and lash in all the drivetrain stock. Come on Losi, these things will roll out 3 inches of slack if you let off the throttle quickly!