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Thread: New MRC owner-upgrade questions

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Old 05-09-2011, 03:34 PM   #1
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Default New MRC owner-upgrade questions

Hello. New to the forums and new to crawling. Just picked up a Losi MRC and loving it, but looking at the rides here and doing some crawling, I definetly see room to improve the truck. I have looked at the beginers posts and the Ultimate guide, as well as lots of builds on here. I don't plan to get too crazt yet, but am wondering what upgrades I should make the priority, and what ones can wait.

I am currently looking at servo upgrade first, of coourse to a full size. Wondering if aluminum drivetrain componets, CVD's, and shock upgrade should be high or low on my list. Where will I see the biggest bang for the buck? JUst don't want to be wasteful and foolish on my upgrades. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Amazing site, and some amazing crawlers here. I love the scale crawlers too. Thanks again.

~J.R.
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:05 PM   #2
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is yours the mrc pro roller or the original if its the original i would do the full size servo and metal lockers all the way around cvds and some good drivelines oh and dont forget to get some rovers for some good traction
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:12 PM   #3
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Ohh yes, sorry. It's the original. Bought it RTR. So focusing on driveline upgrades first would be best it seems?
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:15 PM   #4
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On the servo upgrade, do I need to run a BEC with stck electronics, or is it dependent on the servo i choose? I'm running the stock nimh battery but hope to go to lipos soon.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:03 AM   #5
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If you keep the slipper slightly loose, and don't nail the throttle with a stuck tire then IMO you can upgrade tires, Rims,servo and chassis for the big improvements in crawling. But, if you drive hard and don't want to have a day where something breaks and spoils your fun then yes I would say defiantly lockers, cvds and drive shafts. I choose to have my stock drive shafts be my break point simply because they are ez to change(I keep a spare set$12 to $15 I think) I want them to break over my trans gears and ring gears in the axles good luck its a fun machine
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:10 PM   #6
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I would put this as my rough order of things to do (in my opinion only, and presuming you are willing to flash some cash at the crawler?!):

FIRST think about the free mods, they help and dont cost! (in no particular order):
Drill steering knuckles for zero Ackerman (will need a longer link rod making too.
Four link the rear upper links (remove the "Y" upper link, replace with two seperate links (needs rear plate making))
Reposition electronics to front upper link or onto rear axle (i.e. low down)
Battery ontop of servo, or (if small 850mah LiPo) onto front links)
Flip transmission 180deg, to increase room at front - for battery or electronics to fit.
Lower shell - easy, drill new body post holes, about 3/4 inch higher on the body - in effect lowers the shell down on the chassis. Cut the lower angled portion off the shell. = lower centre of gravity.

$£ Mods:
1: Weight the front rims (about 2oz solder wire wrapped round the inner rim channel in each front wheel) [also if you can, replace the stock rims with Axial plastic beadlocks - proper beadlocks make it much easier to swap tires and weights etc. - or convert the stock rims to beadlocks, with either some plastic tube cut to size (search this forum) or buy the Losi beadlock sleeves (as found on the pro roller).]
2: Fit some HB Rover tires (AMAZING improvement in grip)
3: Metal lockers Front Rear Centre (the plasitc stock ones are ok for playing around but will round out on you once you get into it and start pushing the rig a little)
4: Servo: either a high torque mini servo or a full size (the stock servo only puts out about 3 or 4 Kg, so something with 8+ kg will show massive improvements in steering when tackling the rocks). I have used expenisve servos and the cheapest metal gear high torque, both are usuable (obvious quality and longevity difference, but a £10 servo is ok for starters). Fit a BEC, to prevent the ESC blowing it's internal BEC (remember to remove ESC's red wire from the three wire plug.)
5: So many options now, but a couple of other stuff: CVD steering, LiPo battery. Alloy threaded shocks (much much smoother), softer springs (Mini T: pinks (F) and Orange (R, left) and red (R right)

If you get that far and still want more improvements, a new chassis is then next thing, but willrequire further mods and making of links, etc etc.

I really think people should try out the stock chassis more, it really is pretty capable once modded (four link, shocks, etc)
[I do love my mini juice though!]


ABove all the best and most valuable thing to do is PRACTICE! No amount of money or modding will replace hours spent driving and gaining control of the rig.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:47 PM   #7
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Thanks you for the replies. I will definetly address the free mods starting now, and work from there.
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