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Thread: BWD Mini Wedge with Dub Topper build

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Old 05-20-2011, 09:25 PM   #1
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Default BWD Mini Wedge with Dub Topper build

so just in the course of a week's time my gc-3 truck bodied mrc is transformed. found some worn out bearings while making the transition, now it is silky smooth in the front end.

custom OTA steering , BWD mini-wedge chassis and updated rear upper link mount, BWD black .125" DUB topper. Traxxas OD gear up front, MIP shafts, alum knuckles, c's, rear lockouts, alum locked diffs. 22T Holmes Hobby mini Torquemaster. Hobbico CS170 servo, CC BEC, Mamba 25. Futaba rf603ff and 3PMX. still running el-cheapo Blue 2s 40c 800 mah packs, now located over the rear axle. VP slugs all in the front wheels, rears light as possible.

first impression crawling in the basement on the 18" paver stones =

DAMN! this thing is agile! even with my limited crawling time, I already know this will make up for a LOT of my lack of "seat time" and it feels extremely stable and nimble. having the delrin links it has greater clearance yet low COG even with the heavier of the DUB toppers.

I used clear lexan with "engine spun aluminum" vinyl made for the SS inserts on 62-64 Impalas. sticker side in, the lexan keeps it protected.

Rollover capabilities?? YES. barely touch the throttle, its back shiny side up. The DUB topper seems to feel like a springboard and does very well at correcting. This is gonna be a killer setup for a seasoned pro OR the greenhorn like me just realizing what setup changes affect performance and tailoring to individual driving styles.

I did have to modify the spacers on the topper where it joins the chassis. I snipped 1/8" off of all 4 spacers, and it took it out far enough to clear the shock mount swivel assembly. cant wait to bust out on the rocks!
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:19 PM   #2
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Nice rig,but it will never work!
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Old 05-21-2011, 04:58 PM   #3
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looks like green flames makes a crawler work better. i might have to steal somebody's skins!
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:34 PM   #4
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took a 2nd place finish behind EvilTwin v2 at its first official comp. this chassis rocks! and loves rocks too! we had killer traction but climbed some slippery areas that others had some trouble with. the DUB topper is great on recovery, almost feels like a spring board with little to no throttle needed to get back shiny side up. the delrin links are way slick compared to the straight metal of the previous GC-3 chassis I had ran. adding some RCBros high steer 0-ack knuckles very soon. maybe knuckle weights but it has no twist now and does what I want it to.
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:36 AM   #5
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I bought a couple FlySky 2 channel radios with 3 channel rx, $20 per combo, to try out on my 1.9s and get the electronics smaller cause the F603FF Futaba rx with my 3PMX was just overkill.

The tx felt good, different setup as far as feel from Futaba, which had been the only radio sys I have used until now. install was quick, no bind needed, set my neutral and throttle with the mamba 25 and took it outside after setting my steering trim and end points up. (no separate L/R but HEY, its $20)

First impression.... HOLY S#!T!! for some reason, maybe due to a reprogram or resolution differences, the steering is more responsive, and I swear it runs like its on a 3 cell lipo now. Feels like the motor lost 11 turns somewhere. Had some new 2s Skyy lipos to cycle out but I know they were not the reason for the increase in wheel speed. Fresh bearings couldn't have done it all by itself, either. The radio is well worth the money, and then some. Unless I run a MOA or scaler with a winch, these little radios do one hell of a job for 2 channel needs. Sure there isn't a ton of settings or features, but you can bind more rx's to them if you need to.

here's a link to where I bought mine.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/fs-gt2-24ghz-radio-black.html
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:59 PM   #6
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added some RCBros high steer knuckles. done the caster mod. crazy amounts of steering. my tires were catching the lower links! it seems to steer way beyond what the mrc cvd's want to handle. dialed some of it back out but cranked it back up for a few close calls. finished 3rd behind the most consistent heavy hitters in 1.9, Evil Twin and Stick King. Still have yet to do the underdrive rear axle mod, but its doing great for now.
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:54 PM   #7
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Is this the topper that will fit on the MRC Pro?
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:02 PM   #8
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Actually yes. Don confirmed that it will directly bolt to a mrc pro chassis.
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:17 PM   #9
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I havent been on his site. Does he have pics of it installed yet.
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:54 PM   #10
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no pics on an MRC pro, just the mini wedge.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:18 PM   #11
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Yeah I just checked.
I would love to be a test subject to see how it looks. Hint Hint!!!
LOL.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:50 PM   #12
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while cleaning up the slop in the front axle diff, i decided to take some left over 1/4" brake line tubing and make "mrc beef toobs" that just occupy the axle and add a marginal amount of weight. come to find out, they can tighten up the slack when you offset the lengths, and put your diff closer to the overdrive gear taking the lash out of it.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:17 PM   #13
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Alright. Very Cool! We are going to need a little walk through on this tube setup. I loved my home made beef tubes on my ax and have aways been kicking this around for the mrc.

Idea. How bout extending the tubes all the way outside to the c collars so you can tap and thead then for camber? Just a thought. Anyway questions.

1. Did you have to dremel out the inside of the tubes?
2. Did you have to bore out the insides of the tubes?
3. I get that you used break line but how thick is the wall thickness?

Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickM View Post
Alright. Very Cool! We are going to need a little walk through on this tube setup. I loved my home made beef tubes on my ax and have aways been kicking this around for the mrc.

Idea. How bout extending the tubes all the way outside to the c collars so you can tap and thead then for camber? Just a thought. Anyway questions.

1. Did you have to dremel out the inside of the tubes?
2. Did you have to bore out the insides of the tubes?
3. I get that you used break line but how thick is the wall thickness?

Thanks for the ideas.
X2. added weight with no loss of space. gotta love that on these little things
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:46 AM   #15
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The plastic axle cases were not modified at all. still retained full amount of material; using these tubes for the c's to bolt to, would be a delicate procedure.there is much more plastic to grab the hardware versus the brake line. you would have to make the hardware perfect length or risk hitting the axle, just like the ax beef toobs. also, we're talking small screws...not easy to clean threads up on these or tap the brake line with such small threads. I used them to clock the ring gear assembly and add a little more weight up front. I suppose you could weld larger ends onto the tubes and adapt different C's onto them, like D-Lux is doing, but via the tube. ax-sized stubs will fit snug in this 1/4" line. I dont know the thickness but any auto parts store can give you specs, or look up online?...
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:25 AM   #16
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I am getting ready to do a d-lux setup to my front end, and am going to be running lcc axles. As a result I am not sure if the 1/4 brake line will take the axle size but I am going ti pick some up just in case. I may try to extend the tube to the end of the housing and tap it just to see what happens. I will report back on this. Big props on getting this done.

RickM
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:17 PM   #17
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I was just thinkin for weight. Every little bit helps.
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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yeah one of these days I will buy a digital scale and see what is going on with these subtle mods..
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #19
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thats the best idea ever! now...go make a thread just on that!
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:24 PM   #20
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well this little truck finally had a good driver for a weekend, I took 1st for the first time at a local comp. I think this chassis is starting to make some believers out of some including me!
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