AX-10 rear straight axle mod

[RickM]

Alright- I noticed egressor did something similar but I added my own twist. I also did a quick search to see if anyone else has been up to this but could not find much. If I am very late to this game sorry.

I was tired of the fact that the hex's for the mini were using a small pin and did not like the idea of drilling out the axle shafts potentially weakening the axles. Egressor was using ax10 axles to strengthen the rear axle so I decided to order some and give it a try. I did not however want to drill out my chubs as I am still using the stock chubs. I went to the lhs and picked up 4 8x5x2.5 bearings and some 8x5x.5 washers. I then cut the ax-10 axles to measure. I took my dremal to the end and ground down a square but left it a little flaired. I had to knock off the side edges just a little to fit in the locker. All was went back together and actually reduced slop in the rear axle. I will post pics tomorrow.

[customforlife]

so what are the washers for?

[DickyT]

Pics please Rick! I have several sets of AX10 axles laying around

My brain does not comprehend your scribbles (typed words) much, but i might be able to figure out the process via pics

[RickM]

The stock bearings are 3 mil wide, not 2.5. Dickyt. We had a rain shower that equated to a squirt gun and a garden hose but somehow it knocked out our power in the middle of the night and kept it out until 10:30 this morning. It distracted me this morning and I forgot to take pics before venturing out of the dark and into the light. I will get them up tonight.

[neiloid1]

Can't wait to see the pictures

[DickyT]

I think a light bulb just clicked.... you are talking about the straight axles, not the housings... I get it I have a few spare sets of them too!

[RickM]

Here goes. Imagine these being a direct replacement from stock. Imagine the bearing and washer as a direct replacement as well. I cut mine a little long to be safe. I also ground the where I had to work a little to get them in the locker to ensure as little slop as possible.






This was a very basic mod. All you need is a dremel and hacksaw. Measure twice cut once and grind a bit, test some more, grind a bit and so forth.

[DickyT]

And serious rear end bullet proofing

Time to order some gunnar pins!

[RickM]

That was essentially part of my thinking. This all started because I did not like drilling out the stock axles to run larger pins and normal hex's rather than the plastic ones I had somehow still limped along with. I decided this allowed me to firm up the slop, firm up the structural beef, give me a larger circumfrance to run a larger pin through, and finally give me an aluminum hex. Dickyt. You bring up a good point. I tend to ramble some on this stuff so here is a line item of what I did in summary.

1. Pull the current axle assembly apart. (you might not have to remove the inside axle housing from the rig if you don't want to.)
2. Pull the ring/locker assembly out.
3. Measure up your current axle shaft assembly to get a ball park measurement. (remember it is easier to trim an axle cut to long then to lengthen a short axle).
4. Cut the ax-10 axle.
5. Take the cut end and hit it with a dremel to create the box end. Hit it lightly and try to insert it into the locker which should be out of your rig. You will want it to snug up as you insert it to remove slop. You will have to also slightly narrow the sides of this box section as it might not fit in the locker for that reason. Thats your call. Again grind gently, measure grind some more etc....
6. Insert the ring/locker back in the axle and put the housing back together.
7. Insert the axle shafts back into the axle lockers.
8. Take the new 5x8x.5 washer and install it against the bearing seat on the axle.
9. Take the 5x8x2.5 bearing and slide it against the washer.
10. Install the chub assembly and check for no binding. (if you have binding, your axle may be to long, which should be obvious so go back to the dremel).
11. Install a 5x8x.5 washer inside the chub outer bearing seat, and around the axle.
12. Install the outside 5x8x2.5 bearing.
13. Install the pin
14. Install the hex
15. Drive it like you stole it.

I am not sure the aluminum or pro chubs have 2 bearings per side so some consideration may have to be given to this. I know Egressor used a 10 mil drill to drill out the inside and get a larger bearing, but my rig started as an rtr so I am still using the plastic c's which have an inside and outside bearing.

Hope this is a better summary.

[DickyT]

And when you say chubs you mean lockouts.

Chubs (caster hubs) are on your front axle!

Nice writeup Rick!

[RickM]

Thats right dickyt. I meant lockouts.

RickM