klampyz 1/18 HSP Kulak / Losi MRC

[klampykixx]

hi guys. i started a thread on scale 4x4 and it dawned on me, that its not really the place to post a crawler.... lol

ill put up all my pics so far.

first mods, change rims for actual 1.9 rims. the first non stock tires truly sucked balls.





next was to lower the servo



then to find there was no lubrication at all....







fixed that right up...

swapped the springs for ones from a 1/16 HSP buggy i had(black).. much softer than the stock kulak springs. (chrome) on the rear. and left the silver ones on the front but spaced them down to stiffen them up.



the slipped some 2.2s on there. they also sucked... lol

weighted in the front.

[klampykixx]

first run out on the dirt was fun. but found plenty that needed to be attended to in the handling department.





vids:

1_18 HSP :: DSCI0464.mp4 video by klampykixx - Photobucket

1_18 HSP :: DSCI0466.mp4 video by klampykixx - Photobucket

took a bit of coaxing, but got all the way up there on its own.








then had a day at the beach on the rocks.















beach vid

1_18 HSP :: 20120901_170934.mp4 video by klampykixx - Photobucket

[klampykixx]

then started the mods. i flipped the top plate to get the ride height down.



and had its first weigh in on the 2.2s



aaaannd still wasnt happy with the chassis layout so new TVPs made, touring car shocks up front





and then i decided that the 2.2s were too big for it, and the rubber compound just wasnt cutting the mustard even after some quick dremel cuts to the tread.

so test fitted some rock bashers to see how they look. and now i have another pair on order to complete the set.



until then, im running the HSP tires with the small lugs cut on both front and rear now.

[klampykixx]

then swapped out for lipo powah!



and the front rims are weighted, all four are sealed without foams, just air. they could probably be a smidgen softer, but for now they grip well.



bent the rear links







went back to the scales, now under a kilo!!



then took it for a drive on the breakwall on the coast. and must say its starting to handle very very well

but still need to lower the CoG, so started by trimming as much as i can from up high. starting with the battery, moved to under the ESC, and the panel its mounted to has been trimmed right back, along with the rear section that holds the rear shocks. trimmed the chassis from the unused shock points and then also refilled the diffs with more grease to make them a touch heavier.



and thats where im at now

soon, i want to add the alloy Chubs, and swivel hubs, id love some rear lockouts, but not sure on that one yet. alloy driveshafts might also be on the cards yet not sure until i break one.

oh, and if i missed it, i let the smoke out of the stock servo, and swapped it for the metal geared stock one from my 1/8 HSP MOA.

[klampykixx]

can someone point me to the rules of the class that this crawler fits into please?

edit: http://www.usrcca.com/rules/USRCCA_2...01-15-2011.pdf

i found the rule book. but now im more confused sorta.

1.9 class, is that class 3 regardless?

and then sportsman class, do LMC compete in that or C3??

reason i ask, is C3/1.9 has a max wheelbase of 8.5inch.

2.4 - Class 3 – Class 1.9 :
▪ 2.4.1 - Vehicle wheelbase is limited to a maximum of 8.5 inches.

yet, stock, has more than that... so are other peoples LMCs under 8.5inch wb???

width is fine, im just under the width allowance

▪ 2.4.2 - Vehicle track width is limited to a maximum of 8 inches. This is determined by measuring the bottom of the
outer most edge of the front and rear tires while the vehicle is sitting on level ground.

but then, the sportsman class is open to 2.2 rims, and much longer/wider rigs. so, would i not neccessarily be hindered/disadvantaged if i used my rig as-is in that class?? or would it be a massive disadvantage to do so?

2.5 – Sportsman Class (Optional):
▪ 2.5.1 - Vehicle wheelbase is limited to a maximum of 12.5 inches.
▪ 2.5.2 - Vehicle track width is limited to a maximum of 12.5 inches. This is determined by measuring
the bottom of the outer most edge of the front and rear tires while the vehicle is sitting on level ground.
▪ 2.5.3 - Vehicle is limited to 2.2 inch wheels/rims or smaller at the bead surface. Wheels may be modified, provided
that the tire bead surface does not exceed 2.2 inches in diameter. With a tire mounted, no exterior component of the
wheel, including but not limited to, the bead lock ring shall exceed 2.55". Tires may be modified from other sized tires
using only a pliable rubber, but must not exceed a total uncompressed outer diameter of 6 inches.

can someone please clear this up for me. as, one day id like to compete with this truck, just to see how it fairs against much higher dollar spend trucks.

[klampykixx]

forgot that editing a post doesnt update the thread.

[Nik6189]

Hey mate we have one or two in our club and a few of the kids have them too. Now that the mrc isnt made anymore and are in high demand ( to butcher and dress in drag as a suzuki) Im suprized there isnt more of these around.
Good work on it. Im lucky enough to have a couple of pors and they are a blast to drive
Nik

[klampykixx]

cool thanks

[klampykixx]

got my rock bashers today!



the new ones have blank sidewalls....






now i just need to find some 1.9 beadlock rims so i dont have to deal with gluing the tires on. theyre just a tad loose on the 1/10 touring car rims... i had 2.5wheel drive when i took it out just before.. kinda annoying when all ya need is that slipping rims traction to climb that rock..... :/

glue, or beadlock......

[winnerone23]

Glue, or beadlocks...... This a question? Beadlocks! It's easier to change tires or wheels on ur crawler.. tho it may put you over ur max width depending on offset, you may have to drop the wheel wideners. Other then that its personal preference..
Besides the aluminum wheels just look bad a$$ .... I've rotated 3 diff sets of wheels on my 4.25" rovers...

[klampykixx]

yea... kinda already knew the answer, just didnt want to believe it.. :/

so im tossing up between three sets.

gmade VR01



losi 1.9



or this from "promise hobby"

[klampykixx]

ok so i took it for another run at the beach today and i tell ya, its real frustrating when it would 99.9% likely make it up that rock if it had more than 1wheel drive..... :/

so definately going to be getting the promise hobby rims, just coz theyre alloy and theyre only $40 for the set.

but for now, this is my only option that doesnt involve glue. and im not happy with the way it looks. its way too wide, but the center hole in the rim is too big for the stub. ..

Fronts got the blue losi foams that come with the rock bashers.



Rears got the pink foams out of the HSP tires.



and here we have a rig that would be close on 2kg now.... :/

[klampykixx]

ok. so drove it today. like that ^^.......

lets just say it sucked balls... burnt a servo, super short battery time, handled badly, and was way underpowered to what it used to be.

so. i made a decision. foams in the tires were a must. just too soft other wise, so i glued the stock RockBasher tire/foams onto the touringcar rims and, i wasnt liking the way it was driving. still felt there was too much up top. AND, felt it wasnt driving like a real truck. ie: my jeep, has more flex in the front and less in the rear. this was the opposite of that, and possibly why it was feeling rather unnatural to drive.

so heres what i did.

reversed the chassis, touring car shock/springs to the rear and HSP shocks with soft springs to the front. flipped the front shock mount including the ESC to lower the front end dramatically and put the heavier of the two lower down on the chassis. and replaced the servo with one from my 1/8 ford build.... (sad..) 9-12kg





and underneath..

[klampykixx]

after the re-arrange of the chassis layout. it definately drives better than it did. however, now its also lighter, less weight up front and no weight on the back. basically what im getting annoyed with, is if i start climbing something, gets to about 70ish degrees and just wants to back flip. im thinking more weight on the front should help to combat that, but then the other half of the story is that when descending, it just wants to do forward flips coz theres no added weight on the rear... its stuck between a rock n a hard place... lol dammed if i do, dammed if i dont...

any suggestions? im still wanting to build a tube chassis for it but dont want to risk reducing its capability even as is...

[klampykixx]

something wrong with that link...

HSP Kulak 1/18 at the beach crawling #1 - YouTube

HSP Kulak 1/18 at the beach crawling #2 - YouTube

those should work.

[klampykixx]

i think im gonna put the weight i took out of the rims back on the hubs. and see how that goes, that will bring it back to the 988g it was before the rim change. hoping that makes the difference.

[winnerone23]

Weight up front is good.. when coming down off I climb, ur rolling over forward, if It's doin it easily, is most likely weight too high, not enough weight or too much weight.. weight high pulls it over.. rolling over goin up a climb with weight in the rear an not up front, is cause then the back wheels are biting too much an trying to drive the rear end under itself.. th rig looks good, an all ur testing will help you understand ur rig more, then as you get somewhere with it, that you like it, just change one thing at a time, an you will understand what an why each change helps or doesn't help.. changing ten things at once an it drives better, you don't know what helped.. its what I was told when I started.. hope it helps..

[klampykixx]

Thanks for the tips Troy

i had a read from start to finish of your thread. lots of little tips within. and nice rig btw

i totally hear ya on the weight factor. its not really a need for more or less weight, its a matter of putting it in the right location. after reversing my chassis, it does drive so much better than it did. and strangely, the ESC weighs more than the 2s... so the ESC got lowered, and the 2s stayed roughly where it was when it was at the other end.

before the chassis reversal, the front rims where weighted, as were the front hubs. now, only the hubs are weighted and i think it needs that little extra on the front end. but after todays drive on the rocks down the street, ive found a section of the neighbour's rockwall that ive made a line for myself, kinda like a testing ground and altho i couldnt pass the point one handed while recording, it well and truly surpassed my previous best my over three times !!! very much happier with it than i was even before. new tires, better balance. just allround more stable and better!

im thinking that as soon as i weigh down the front axle just a tad more, it will be where i want it to be.

i took some body-off pics of balance points tonight.


starting with ground clearance




descent balance




ascending balance




sidehill tipping point




it then sits like this, but only just. and only on this side. it will not balance on its rims on the other side.




and a flex shot to show where the ESC hides out




ill post up vids of todays efforts later on once theyre uploaded. (pretty crappy coz one handed, but ya get the point.)

[klampykixx]

i think when i do the outboard shock mod, ill move my battery down to my upper links and the RX back up top. the RX weighs nothing compared to the 2s. so i believe that lowering it to below the top of the tire, and forwards might even give me the extra front weight im looking for too

[klampykixx]

1/18 HSP Kulak More Rock Crawling - YouTube


1/18 HSP Kulak More Rock Crawling 2 - YouTube