Shimming a ring gear

[josephi]

I am wondering what others are using to shim a ring and/or a pinion in the rear axle. I did a search and the only results I could come up with were to use a washer. Ok, but how thick? Is there something off the shelf to use?
Any suggestions would be great!

[daver18qc]

I found some "generic bearing shims" in 4mm inside diameter at my local hobbie shop, they are VERY thin, you'd need about 3 to make up the depth of a piece of paper. Pack of 20 cost me 4.99 i think. I tried searching for my original package for the part number but couldn't find it. Must have went to the thrash, sorry :P

[josephi]

Originally Posted by daver18qc

I found some "generic bearing shims" in 4mm inside diameter at my local hobbie shop, they are VERY thin, you'd need about 3 to make up the depth of a piece of paper. Pack of 20 cost me 4.99 i think. I tried searching for my original package for the part number but couldn't find it. Must have went to the thrash, sorry :P

Thanks, that's a good start!

[daver18qc]

These kind !
Link: Yokomo 4mm Spacer Shim Set [YOKZC-S40] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies

[winnerone23]

I make CF "beef tubes" that fit snuggly inside ur axle housings and one is marked with a R. It goes on the back side of the ring gear. It both stiffens ur axle housing and shims ur ring gear over for perfect gear mesh.

I'll get some pics posted after work.

[89redranger]

These are the shims I use. Buy multiple packs to stick in the toolblox. I shim the diff, then cut each beef tube from 1/4"×0.035" aluminum tube 1mm less than the distance between the diff and the end of the housing. Personally, I don't care for my beef tubes rubbing the ends of my diff or bearings. Leave a 1mm gap between the diff and tubes.

http://www.thetoyz.com/Traxxas/Mini-...sociated/8009/

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[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

These are the shims I use. Buy multiple packs to stick in the toolblox. I shim the diff, then cut each beef tube from 1/4"×0.035" aluminum tube 1mm less than the distance between the diff and the end of the housing. Personally, I don't care for my beef tubes rubbing the ends of my diff or bearings. Leave a 1mm gap between the diff and tubes.

Traxxas Mini-1-16-Revo parts at the thetoyz.com - All your Traxxas Mini-1-16-Revo parts in one superstore!

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That's what I used. Got mine in a pack with a bunch of other shims I couldn't use (come in handy some day).

Thanks for the part number (minus the extras).

[89redranger]

You must have bought the whole vehicle shim kit or something. This one came with exactly what's pictured when I ordered mine. Four shims and that's it. If I could figure it out I'd shim the locker as opposed to the whole diff. Shimming the diff to one side or the other leaves one shaft with lots of engagement in the locker, and the other side just "ok." I've actually had my "ok" side click in the steel locker a few times, so took one shim out of that side and have been using a dab of loctite on the ends of the shafts before sliding them into the locker. I really wish somebody would make a decent no slop locker/bolt on hardened steel ring gear (LOSB1254, Losi Mini LST viscous diff set)/deep engagement shaft setup. I'd buy 4 of them right now.

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[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

You must have bought the whole vehicle shim kit or something. This one came with exactly what's pictured when I ordered mine. Four shims and that's it. If I could figure it out I'd shim the locker as opposed to the whole diff. Shimming the diff to one side or the other leaves one shaft with lots of engagement in the locker, and the other side just "ok." I've actually had my "ok" side click in the steel locker a few times, so took one shim out of that side and have been using a dab of loctite on the ends of the shafts before sliding them into the locker. I really wish somebody would make a decent no slop locker/bolt on hardened steel ring gear (LOSB1254, Losi Mini LST viscous diff set)/deep engagement shaft setup. I'd buy 4 of them right now.

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I really can't believe un upgraded diff/axle-shaft doesn't exist already.

It seems ridiculous to think that in its hayday the MRC pro never generated a diff upgrade, overdrive, underdrive, etc.

I can think of about 20 local axles that need something better ASAP....

I'm hoping the Slick Rock will be a hit, and generate new parts options.

More likely, like everything else, I'll have to fabricate my own parts to get what I really want.

[89redranger]

I know the feeling. Try finding a CMS/3-link it for one of these rigs. I build a lot of my own parts. A decent locker may have to be one more thing I build on my own...



Really hoping for better parts with the release of the Slick Rock. Hopefully parts that translate well to both the scale/comp sides of these rigs. No matter what style rig we're all building, we all need pretty much the same parts.

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[josephi]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys! I am debating the shims vs. the CF beef tubes!!

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by josephi

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys! I am debating the shims vs. the CF beef tubes!!

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Personally, I don't care for my beef tubes rubbing the ends of my diff or bearings. Leave a 1mm gap between the diff and tubes.

No experience with the CF tubes personally.

I know I have a different shim package in my front diff vs the rear. Front has Traxxas overdrive, rear does not.

Unless there are a couple different versions of the tubes for different applications, it would seem the shims would be the more tried-and-true method.

I'm not wild about the beef tube tight against the bearings like 89redranger stated. My personal preference is to shim the diff and keep the beef tubes off the diff/bearings.

Bearings turning tight against a fixed tube will either wear the bearing/diff assembly; or the tube itself will wear away. Either way, sooner or later, something will no longer be working properly...

[89redranger]

Exactly my thoughts. The right material could act as a bushing, but why? Shim, then measure, cut, and install your tubes if you use them. Also, K&S 1/4" stainless works bitchin for front tubes. A little more weight, more rigid, but a bitch to cut by hand. My pipe cutter hates me...

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[winnerone23]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

No experience with the CF tubes personally.

I know I have a different shim package in my front diff vs the rear. Front has Traxxas overdrive, rear does not.

Unless there are a couple different versions of the tubes for different applications, it would seem the shims would be the more tried-and-true method.

I'm not wild about the beef tube tight against the bearings like 89redranger stated. My personal preference is to shim the diff and keep the beef tubes off the diff/bearings.

Bearings turning tight against a fixed tube will either wear the bearing/diff assembly; or the tube itself will wear away. Either way, sooner or later, something will no longer be working properly...

The beef tubes would have no ill effect on which pinion is used as the ring gear and locker is all the same. All the tube does is keep the diff setup from bein sloppy in ur axles, as is the same with shims.
I have been running them close to a year and yet to have a bearing go bad, tube wear, or a single gear pop..
You really don't need to take my word for the abuse I can put my rig/rigs thru. MrcCrackhead crawls with the same club..
I do understand the thought behind the worry tho. Ranger and MCH..

[89redranger]

Under normal loads you would be correct. The tube would cause minimal drag. Under torque, deflection from the pinion is fairly high though. Deflection pushing the diff right into your CF beef tubes. While it works for you, I wouldn't do it. Like the old saying goes, there are a thousand ways to skin a cat. Either way, your tubes/shims probably cost you less, weigh less and function the same as my actual tubes and shims.

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[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

The beef tubes would have no ill effect on which pinion is used as the ring gear and locker is all the same. All the tube does is keep the diff setup from bein sloppy in ur axles, as is the same with shims.
I have been running them close to a year and yet to have a bearing go bad, tube wear, or a single gear pop..
You really don't need to take my word for the abuse I can put my rig/rigs thru. MrcCrackhead crawls with the same club..
I do understand the thought behind the worry tho. Ranger and MCH..

Winner does run his rig a lot, and just short of outright abuse. I've seen it.

It's all theory, and white noise in the end.

Small rig, small power, light weight......probably doesn't matter which route you go.

I've gone a different route altogether by beef-tubing my mini axles on the outside, so shims are my preferred method.

I'm more referring to the tubes in my AX10 when speaking personally about internal tubes. In that rig, I would never dream of smashing something into the diff assembly.

[89redranger]

I've seen local rigs with wood screw holding them together. As I said, because it's not my preferred method doesn't mean it's wrong. Some of those very same wood screw laden rigs that I made fun of have beat me on more than one occasion. Considering there are 0 legitimate shim or beef tube kits sold specifically for the MRC, anything home brew that works is gold...

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[89redranger]

BTW, my first rig was shimmed with individual coils cut off a toy buggy's springs stacked behind the bearing. Anything that matches the bearing ID could work there.

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