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Old 12-18-2014, 05:51 PM   #21
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Default Re: MRC Motor Plate

Well, I got both motor plates all drilled out. Tried putting the CF one on and it was way to thick. Plus, I snapped the head off a bolt. Put the titanium one on and it works great. But, it was a pain in the ass to drill out. Now I'm looking at power supplies to anodize it. I also have to make some tweaks to the design. Overall, I'm happy with my first part that I designed with out help. Although I can't cut it out on my own. But that's why you make friends with machinists.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:48 PM   #22
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Default Re: MRC Motor Plate

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Originally Posted by OTHGbronco82 View Post
Well, I got both motor plates all drilled out. Tried putting the CF one on and it was way to thick. Plus, I snapped the head off a bolt. Put the titanium one on and it works great. But, it was a pain in the ass to drill out. Now I'm looking at power supplies to anodize it. I also have to make some tweaks to the design. Overall, I'm happy with my first part that I designed with out help. Although I can't cut it out on my own. But that's why you make friends with machinists.
Glad it worked out... sorry the CF was to thick . And yeah machinists can work magic usually it just helps to draw stuff in correctly and not leave out holes!

If you want a cheaper option I can cut some protos from say... plastic and use those to check

As for the power supply I have (literally) used old 9V batteries I got from our sound guy at church. It wasn't the most efficient but when you had a big olde box of them for free you did all kinds of stupid stuff with them just don't use 120V obviously and wiring in a bulb into the circuit helps control the current so you don't blow stuff up
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:58 PM   #23
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Default Re: MRC Motor Plate

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Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin View Post
Glad it worked out... sorry the CF was to thick . And yeah machinists can work magic usually it just helps to draw stuff in correctly and not leave out holes!

If you want a cheaper option I can cut some protos from say... plastic and use those to check

As for the power supply I have (literally) used old 9V batteries I got from our sound guy at church. It wasn't the most efficient but when you had a big olde box of them for free you did all kinds of stupid stuff with them just don't use 120V obviously and wiring in a bulb into the circuit helps control the current so you don't blow stuff up
Eh, that was kinda my fault. I should have checked clearances. I probably will do some plastic protos just to make sure it's completely right. But that's after I print a couple in paper to make sure the holes line up.

I would like to have an adjustable power supply though. Makes things way easier. I just can't decide whether or not to get a 60V or a 120V. The 120v is $130 and can do all the colors of the titanium spectrum. But, the 60v is cheaper and can only do about half the colors the 120 can. So many decisions. Time to sell some clod axles.

Thanks again for machining the motor plates.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:40 PM   #24
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Default Re: MRC Motor Plate

What is a clod axle

Its all good man! I always tell people "I make parts to your print. If that is in or out of spec is your problem" all jokes aside it is true... I only do what you ask me to unless I look at it and go "yeah your not even close" . I am slowly working on getting my machinery up and running so I can get things cranked out a tad faster is the hope... one can wish right
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:48 PM   #25
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Default Re: MRC Motor Plate

Got my power supply today. Now I have to take it all back apart, get my supplies, and anodized the motor plate. Oh yay.
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