Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

[MountainStorm]

Did you sand them mounted with foams? I've been trying to come up with a "fool proof" method but after burning through a couple I decided to stop shaving and start saving lol.

Looks good!

[BigDaddy95]

Please can you describe how you shave your wheel?
Thanks

[MRCrackhead]

Are the shocks supposed to be mounted on the outside of the link tabs (axle end)?

Wider is generally more stable? Just throwing it out there.

This Is a really sweet looking rig. Nice work.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Are the shocks supposed to be mounted on the outside of the link tabs (axle end)?

Wider is generally more stable? Just throwing it out there.

This Is a really sweet looking rig. Nice work.

Mounting them inboard actually leaves the shocks in pretty close to the same position as outboarding them on the stock link tabs. Mounting them outboard of the link/shock tabs may very well cause a healthy amount of tire/shock interference. Guess it depends on your setup though. Just my $0.02...

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by MountainStorm

Did you sand them mounted with foams? I've been trying to come up with a "fool proof" method but after burning through a couple I decided to stop shaving and start saving lol.

Looks good!

I shaved the tires as you see them in the pics. I mounted a sanding disk in my lathe and worked the tires on the disk. By working them mounted with the foams in, I have more control of the shaving.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by BigDaddy95

Please can you describe how you shave your wheel?
Thanks

Check out my answer to StormMountain. You just want to make sure you keep the tire moving on the sanding disk so that the rubber doesn't over heat. That is why I like freezing the tire/wheel and foams before I start.
Hope that helps you out BigDaddy.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Are the shocks supposed to be mounted on the outside of the link tabs (axle end)?

Wider is generally more stable? Just throwing it out there.

This Is a really sweet looking rig. Nice work.

This chaotic chassis is wider than the stock chassis, so it does have a wider set-up. but I will check it out. Thanks for the comps and the advice!
Your mini super is really looking cool!!!

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Mounting them inboard actually leaves the shocks in pretty close to the same position as outboarding them on the stock link tabs. Mounting them outboard of the link/shock tabs may very well cause a healthy amount of tire/shock interference. Guess it depends on your setup though. Just my $0.02...

Thanks for the input Brian, like I told MRCrackhead I need to take a look and see if it will work or not. By the way, you should get your 65mm axial shocks tomorrow, they were kind of fun building. Hope they test out ok for you.

[89redranger]

Looking forward to them, and I appreciate the effort you put into them. The mini scene comes and goes, but still to this day the mini and micro crowds seem to be the most tight knit and supportive no matter the size of the crowd. These are the things that keep me around, interested, and motivated.

Now, where are some pics of yours mounted up so I have something to drool over while I wait for Mr. Mailman? A day is sooo long to wait when you got goodies on the way. Haha...

BTW, if you use the "multi-quote" tool down at the bottom you should be able to reply to multiple posts at once. Look for the quotation marks with the little + below them. Just to the right of the quote button.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Looking forward to them, and I appreciate the effort you put into them. The mini scene comes and goes, but still to this day the mini and micro crowds seem to be the most tight knit and supportive no matter the size of the crowd. These are the things that keep me around, interested, and motivated.

Now, where are some pics of yours mounted up so I have something to drool over while I wait for Mr. Mailman? A day is sooo long to wait when you got goodies on the way. Haha...

BTW, if you use the "multi-quote" tool down at the bottom you should be able to reply to multiple posts at once. Look for the quotation marks with the little + below them. Just to the right of the quote button.

I thought I was doing the multiple quotes when I responded to you and MRCrackhead but I guess I didn't hold my tongue right or something.
I started on my shocks but didn't get them done before we left for Medford to see the grandbabies. I'll finish and post up this weekend. I learned another little trick to make it easier to thread the shock shafts.

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

I started on my shocks but didn't get them done before we left for Medford to see the grandbabies. I'll finish and post up this weekend. I learned another little trick to make it easier to thread the shock shafts.

Interested to hear more on the shock build process.

I'd like to have "shock length modification" as a tool in my arsenal of garage fab debauchery.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Interested to hear more on the shock build process.

I'd like to have "shock length modification" as a tool in my arsenal of garage fab debauchery.

OK, as 89redranger stated, this group is great for sharing tricks and mods to help each other out.
This may not be news to most of you but this is what I learned so far working on shock shafts. First off get rid of the 3mm.5 die. I used a 6-32 die, coarser threads don't rip out as easy and the ball ends don't know the difference 3mm and 6-32 threads. Next, use a good cutting oil and go slow, going to fast creats heat that actually welds the thread to the die, causing the thread to rip off. I usually do a 1/8th turn at a time and reverse thread to clean the thread I just cut. GO SLOW!

I measured several different brands of 3mm shocks shaft, and all had a different diameter, 2.94-3.2mm. Obviously the the larger diameter is going to be harder to thread. So to change the length of your shaft, measure and mark to the total length you want to reduce to, including threads. At this point I cut the shaft with a abraisive cut off wheel ( mine is a 4 1/2" side head grinder mounted in a vice). Next I clean the grind, chanfer the end to make it eaiser to start the die. The next step is what makes a huge difference to cutting the threads. I mark the length I want the threads to be and chuck the shaft in my lathe and remove a little material up to the length of the threads I marked. On the gold shaft axial it is just enough to remove the gold color. If you dont have a lathe use a drill and a file. I know that most of you that have tried this mount your shafts in a drill chuck to hold it while cutting the threads. You do not want the shaft to
turn in the chuck and score it. I use the chuck from the tailstock of my lathe and mount it in a vice. I think the larger the chuck the more holding power you have! When I was doing contract work for government we always costed the biggest piece of equipment we could afford, same theory for the chuck. When I tighten the chuck I use the key in all three holes to get it as tight as possible. Remember if you score the shaft where it slides threw the o-ring your shock it is going to leak!

There you have it, everything I know about shortening shock shafts. I know this may not be news to some of you but I wanted to write it so that made sense to you no matter what your building level!
Have FUN building, I know I did!!
Be sure and share your tips to this process, there is always a better way to do things!!!

[CODYBOY]

Had some time this weekend to finish up my 65mm axial shocks. They are a cross build of info from Hulksra and Dravpnir. I also turned some spring cup for these from some lexen rod.

[CODYBOY]

Had some time last week to Cut-&-Shut some tires. I used some 1/8 scale HB tires and some old 1.9 tires doner tires for the side walls. I did a set for my MRC build, and a set for "89redranger" My set is about 4"x
1 1/8" Brians are around 4 1/8" X 1 1/8". I used super soft and soft compounds.

Here are a few picks. I forgot about the learning curve as far as technique. I did quite a few sets when I was comping 2.2s.





Here they are compaired to my stock rovers.





And a couple photos with my RC Bros knuckle weights. I had do just a little machining to get them to work with these wheels but they work pretty good now.





A couple photos of the pin on 89redrangers tires.





You can see the building curve here, I did Brians tires first.

[MountainStorm]

Looks clean from over here. My first cut n shots did not need any ventilation....they had so many gaps down the center

That has really come along and looks like a proper mini comp rig.

[winnerone23]

They look great!

Smart man, smart man! You did Brian's first...

[CODYBOY]

Thanks Storm, I'm like you in the sense that if I'm not building I get a little cranky.

[CODYBOY]

Hey Troy, I didn't have the right ca for Brians tires, so had a problem with the side walls. Besides the price was right for him! I also built a couple little jigs before I started mine.

[CODYBOY]

Worked on adding more weight to the axles this weekend. I managed to get the fronts up to two ounces on each side. I had to do a little shaping but got more lower weight in each side.



The rear weights are stainless steel discs that I picked up at my favorite recycle yard. They are a ounce apiece, and I can add brass to them if I need to. I drilled a hole to slip over the rear lockout and drilled and tapped for a lock screw.





Now to figure out where all of this is going to go. I plan on shortening the servo wire. I think that will wait until tomorrow!

[89redranger]

Lookin good man! Your ESC/wiring looks almost identical to mine. If it helps at all, check out the little tray I made that holds either the RX or ESC behind the trans in my Infectious car. It may very well be what you need to tuck some things away, but it all still gets tight quick. As the saying goes, 10 pounds of "stuff" in a 5 pound bag. Or, in this case, 5 pounds of "stuff" in a 2 pound car...