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Old 05-12-2015, 08:35 PM   #1
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Default Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

Ok, time to start yet another build, one of these days I will finish one of them!!!
I think I like to tinker and building them better than I like comping them. It may be that my driving skills are lacking in a big way.
I have been following most all of the resent builds on here and you guys are amazing, and got me hooked on doing a build.
Bought this MRC from Winnerone (Troy, "you are suppose to make a counter offer"). He gave me a great deal after I did make a counter offer, What a funny guy! So now I'm starting with a new MRC pro slider. It did have the wheels, but no tires.
So durning this build I'm open to any help you guys willing to offer. I didn't start taking photos until I changed chassis and started to make the links. They are a thick wall 1/8th stainless steel tubing. It seems to be as strong as the rod that I have. It threaded pretty good as long as I back threaded on everyother turn and used a good cutting oil.









I use a drill chuck from my lathe tailstock to hold the tubbing.

So some of the first parts I ordered is 3D printed parts from Drav/tech for the front and rear, and some mini slider shocks.





I'm not a big fan of large amounts of articulation so these shock are going in the parts bin and the mini sliders will go on. Also going to use a different chassis that is designed to use shorter shocks. Not sure who made it, bought it on here a couple weeks ago.



Now onto the XR10 steering. Not a lot of wiggle room in cutting these down and getting the flats the right thickness.



I turned down the Dravpnir mount and shave XR10 stock chub and narrowed the front track width from 8" to 71/2" with 0 offset wheels.

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Old 05-13-2015, 01:51 PM   #2
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

My chopped chubs are still holding strong on my mini.

Why did you want 7.5" instead of 8"?
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:59 PM   #3
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

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My chopped chubs are still holding strong on my mini.

Why did you want 7.5" instead of 8"?
The 7.5 is with stock 0 offset sedan wheels with no hubs, so wanted to have the option of using regular 1.9 wheels.

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Old 05-13-2015, 04:33 PM   #4
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On my rear axle I didn't want to use spacers to get out to 73/4" so I started looking through my axle box and found these old axial lockouts and scratch my head a little on how I could use them. I had a set of rear lockouts from Drav/Tech I didn't really want order a set of fronts adapter to mount the axial lockouts. So I thought it's worth a try, and slid axial lockouts over the Drav/tech lockouts, PERFECT FIT!!! Thank you, after all this is a budget build!




SO, while digging in the axle box I came across these over sized scx10 stainless axles that were just about 3/8" each to long. Wow, I got lucky again! (This doesn't happen with my builds) The OD was also to large so I needed to turn the ends down, shorten them and add new tangs.







Since I am using over sized axles ( I can sense a question here from someone, those axle are over kill, yes but i'm doing it for the weight down low) I couldn't use the 4x10x4mm bearings in the drav/tech lockouts so I wanted to use two bearings in each of the axial lockouts so I made spacers to put between the bearings in the lockouts. Overkill? weight!



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Old 05-13-2015, 07:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

Overkill? I'm not so sure.

Looks like bombproof peace of mind to me.

Nice work.
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:57 PM   #6
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Overkill? I'm not so sure.

Looks like bombproof peace of mind to me.

Nice work.
Thanks for the comps, I really like to tinker and the RD. Being 66 and retired it helps keep me young.
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Old 05-14-2015, 12:04 PM   #7
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

OK, here we are at 7 7/8" with 0 offset and narrowed tires.





Ok guys, now for some questions/help. These tires are narrowed proline super swampers regular, 4 1/4" tall. I ordered some rovers and they are about a 1/4" shorter. I'm sure this is a personal preferance question, but what size tires should I be looking at?












So before I get any deeper into the build, other than the front springs, does anything jump out at you as a red flag? I have some 0 offset wheels ordered from DUUUUUUUUUDE, XR10 front weight system from RCBRO and 3 sets of axial shocks (two plastic one aluminum). I want to try Dravpnir's shock mod. I have a small metal lathe so that will help.
So 89redranger I see you lurking here in the back ground, I'm just a stones throw over the hill from you (well maybe a little farther than that) in Oakridge and I thought maybe we could get together and talk, I have a pretty nice shop and we may be able to help each other out with different projects?

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Old 05-14-2015, 01:21 PM   #8
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Lol, I'm lurking alright. Always. You guys' ideas always prompt new ideas of my own.

Shoot me a PM and we can exchange numbers and whatnot and possibly meet up. No comp scene around here means I am building/designing parts and cars simply for the joy of it. One of these days it would be nice to see how my rigs actually stack up against others. Comping both my Infectious rig and the one I am building now (check Dravpnir's thread, we will end up with almost exact copies) was on the agenda, but I'm about a month behind where I would like to be, and about 3 projects too deep to afford traveling. Good news is though, if you can make it over this side of the mountain, I have two FULL mini specific courses in my yard. Easily room to run 100+ gates...
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:35 PM   #9
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The paint on that Bug Body is amazing. This is a cool one. Keep going!
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:37 PM   #10
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Lol, I'm lurking alright. Always. You guys' ideas always prompt new ideas of my own.

Shoot me a PM and we can exchange numbers and whatnot and possibly meet up. No comp scene around here means I am building/designing parts and cars simply for the joy of it. One of these days it would be nice to see how my rigs actually stack up against others. Comping both my Infectious rig and the one I am building now (check Dravpnir's thread, we will end up with almost exact copies) was on the agenda, but I'm about a month behind where I would like to be, and about 3 projects too deep to afford traveling. Good news is though, if you can make it over this side of the mountain, I have two FULL mini specific courses in my yard. Easily room to run 100+ gates...
That sounds good, I have looked at all your threads and I can tell your brain is always going a mile a minute. I will drop you a pm later. I just love to tinker and build. I have a 20x30 "Rock Garden" I built in our yard, but not near as cool as yours. I may be able to help you with the axial shock shafts and I do pretty good at cuting tires.

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Old 05-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #11
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

Some pics of my link setup and shocks, you guys can probably do a whole page on these.






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Old 05-14-2015, 02:56 PM   #12
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

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The paint on that Bug Body is amazing. This is a cool one. Keep going!
Thanks MountainStorm, Back in the days of oval and offroad racing, painting was how I supported my rc habit. Actually won a couple concourse at Nats.
Your Bronco is looking good, but I think your having way to much fun playing with it!! Just kidding! I haven't got around to building any seats yet, been having to much fun with this little guy.
Ernie,

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Old 05-14-2015, 11:53 PM   #13
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Sorry to bring it up this late in the game, but what is the wall on that stainless tube, what grade is it, and where did you find it? I love the aluminum links I made for my Infectious car, but still want to look into either stainless or ti for a spare set of lowers in case of failure. Either way, I have the correct 6-32 die now, cutting oil, and my drill chuck is ALWAYS on standby. Ti or stainless shouldn't be an issue any more.

Just pondering my options at this point...

BTW, if you pick up a piece of K&S 3/16"x0.049" aluminum tube you can actually cut it to length, thread both ends, and eliminate the nuts on your rear link mount. Look at my build for an idea. That piece of tube ends up lighter than the two nuts together (I think...need a new scale), adds a ton of rigidity in the rear link mount itself for less deflection and wheel hop under torque, and flat out looks bitchin if polished. Add a little blue Loctite down the threads though before putting the screws in.

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Old 05-15-2015, 08:36 AM   #14
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You asked about things jumping out, and also about tires. It has been while for me on the mini, and the game may have changed a ton on me, but one thing I noticed is that the rovers, with the ability to sipe them, made a big difference. Also a taller tire, almost gave me the feeling of a somehow shortened wheel base. Things (rollovers) happen so fast on a mini, that every slight change is exaggerated. I also found that the weight game was less effective with my mini, compared to my berg or sporty. I had a pretty good bit of weight at the corners for a small rig.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:45 AM   #15
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

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Originally Posted by 89redranger View Post
Sorry to bring it up this late in the game, but what is the wall on that stainless tube, what grade is it, and where did you find it? I love the aluminum links I made for my car, but still want to look into either stainless or ti for a spare set of lowers in case of failure. Either way, I have the correct 6-32 die now, cutting oil, and my drill chuck is ALWAYS on standby. Ti or stainless shouldn't be an issue any more.

Just pondering my options at this point...

BTW, if you pick up a piece of K&S 3/16"x0.049" aluminum tube you can actually cut it to length, thread both ends, and eliminate the nuts on your rear link mount. Look at my build for an idea. That piece of tube ends up lighter than the two nuts together (I think...need a new scale), adds a ton of rigidity in the rear link mount itself for less deflection and wheel hop under torque, and flat out looks bitchin if polished. Add a little blue Loctite down the threads though before putting the screws in.
I buy all my ss tubing from ZORO, here is the specs. Less than $7.00+shipping

Technical Specifications
Zoro #: G1761006 | Mfr #: 3ADD6
Standards: Meets ASTM 269Length: 6 ft.
Item: TubingType: Welded
Inside Dia.: 0.055"Outside Dia. Tolerance: +.005"/-0.005"
Max. Pressure (PSI): 8582 psi @ 72 Degrees FWall Thickness (In.): 0.035
Temp. Range: -423 to 1500 Degrees FOutside Dia.: 1/8"
Material of Construction: 304 Stainless SteelZoro Number: G1761006
Mfr Number: 3ADD6


Product Description


Tubing, Welded, Inside Dia .055 In, Outside Dia 1/8 In, Length 6 ft, Wall Thickness .035 In, Outside Dia Tolerance +.005 In/-0.005 In, 304 Stainless Steel, Max Pressure 8582 PSI At 72 Degrees F, Temp Range -423 To 1500 Degrees F, Meets ASTM 269

This is the best prices I have ever found on stainless steel tubing. I will take a look again at Infectious. Thanks for the info!

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Old 05-15-2015, 09:59 AM   #16
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You asked about things jumping out, and also about tires. It has been while for me on the mini, and the game may have changed a ton on me, but one thing I noticed is that the rovers, with the ability to sipe them, made a big difference. Also a taller tire, almost gave me the feeling of a somehow shortened wheel base. Things (rollovers) happen so fast on a mini, that every slight change is exaggerated. I also found that the weight game was less effective with my mini, compared to my berg or sporty. I had a pretty good bit of weight at the corners for a small rig.
Thanks for the info RickM, so the taller the tire, the higher the chance of rollovers? I can sipe the proline tires.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:12 PM   #17
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You really have to find the sweet spot. I tried a taller proline tire and just didn't have the best luck with it. Can't remember the tire but it was one of the very few scaler 1.9's a few years back. Anyway it really does depend on what works best, so don't take my suggestions as bible, but for what it's worth.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:38 PM   #18
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You really have to find the sweet spot. I tried a taller proline tire and just didn't have the best luck with it. Can't remember the tire but it was one of the very few scaler 1.9's a few years back. Anyway it really does depend on what works best, so don't take my suggestions as bible, but for what it's worth.
I know that it also has a lot to do with the foams. I make my own, so I just need to get this little guy rolling so I can get on the rocks for testing. Thanks a lot for the info again.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:41 AM   #19
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Default Re: Codyboy's MRC that wants to be........

Look's great man! Sweet little Chaotic mini El Nino.. You can give RI Crawler's build a look. He was and maybe still is, running the same chassis. It will give a little setup help.

Maybe get your rear uppers moved to the outside of the chassis.. Other then that, looks like a real good setup to start out with.

As for tires.. I have some 4.2" rover's, I use to run.. I didn't notice much draw back from the taller tire, but I built the rig around the tires.. So maybe that helped is performance?

I think the biggest draw back on the bigger tires is: ppl that had/have them, throw them on when there rig is tuned around a smaller tire. So the bigger tire makes things wonky..
I ran custom foams in mine, so that will need worked out on your end.
That and my mini juice weighed in around 6lbs.. (Way back when)... Maybe another factor in the equation..
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:08 AM   #20
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Look's great man! Sweet little Chaotic mini El Nino.. You can give RI Crawler's build a look. He was and maybe still is, running the same chassis. It will give a little setup help.

Maybe get your rear uppers moved to the outside of the chassis.. Other then that, looks like a real good setup to start out with.

As for tires.. I have some 4.2" rover's, I use to run.. I didn't notice much draw back from the taller tire, but I built the rig around the tires.. So maybe that helped is performance?

I think the biggest draw back on the bigger tires is: ppl that had/have them, throw them on when there rig is tuned around a smaller tire. So the bigger tire makes things wonky..
I ran custom foams in mine, so that will need worked out on your end.
That and my mini juice weighed in around 6lbs.. (Way back when)... Maybe another factor in the equation..
Thanks for the info, I will give the rear change a try. I like this chassis because I can use 4-40 screws without having to drill out holes. I'm good friends with Kelly Lunsford so I'm using some of his 4-40 TI screws for everything.

I did a little tire and wheel work this weekend. First off I wanted to try some of the drill press wheels, so I hacked up a brand new perfectly good set of MRC wheels. What was I thinking! Well, I needed some 0 offset wheels for build.



I also desided to shave my rovers. I had been thinking about trying something a little different, I chucked up my sanding disk in my wood lathe and froze the mounted tire. The rubber came off the tires so nice, and took about half the time to shave them. I'm sure someone else has done it this way, but was new to me!





Today I mocked up my servo and the links.


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