Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by AK_RC

Do you know anyone who could make custom rims for a build?

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No. And, honestly, such a prospect could be extremely expensive. I have no clue on what that might cost, but if be willing to bet it could be $100/wheel, or more.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[AK_RC]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

No. And, honestly, sick a prospect could be extremely expensive. I have no clue on what that might cost, but if be willing to bet it could be $100/wheel, or more.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Ok, you are probably right on the cost, and that wouldn't be in the range I'm willing to spend. Could I get a 2.2 rim with a deep offset and not have any issues?

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[AK_RC]

Actually I just found a proline set that matched the set I needed

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[CaliCrawler]

I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?

Was that the rear upper links? If so, which ones (ie. brand/model) "died"? Also, what's the length of the links (the eye-to-eye length, as well as the length of just the metal turnbuckle without the rod ends). An idea just popped into my head, but I won't know whether, or not, is a possibility until I know the length of the rods.

I can't measure mine right now, as I'm in the middle of moving things around (today is the second of what I think would be 3-4 days off "moving things around"). Trying to make room for both only the BR, but also a large FE boat.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Just found this website. Don’t even know if this is the right size at all! But just browsing for a couple seconds I see that they will have something that everybody might like for rod ends! Check this out guys. Panther I will answer you tomorrow on that I didn’t get to read it yet.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...-4-,34335.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stand...ale,29291.html
Linkage for carburetors and cables and such. Am I tripping or would this work?

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Just found this website. Don’t even know if this is the right size at all! But just browsing for a couple seconds I see that they will have something that everybody might like for rod ends! Check this out guys. Panther I will answer you tomorrow on that I didn’t get to read it yet.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...-4-,34335.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stand...ale,29291.html
Linkage for carburetors and cables and such. Am I tripping or would this work?

Honestly, I think it's worth a try. Whether, or not, it's workable will probably depend on two primary things - 1) that the threading (2 matching the threading of the link/turnbuckle; 2) that the diameter of the end balls is large enough for the screw to pass through, but not so large that it would move (I'm guessing, any movement greater than 2-3 tenths of a millimeter might be considered "too much"). Another great thing about these (if they work) is that one wouldn't have to 'worry' about screwing the links in so far that it pushes though the other end, pinning the ball end, preventing it from moving...once they 'hit' the other end, it couldn't be screwed in any further, guaranteeing the ball end has full movement.

Don't know if you've already ordered some, but I'm willing to order some, just to try it out.. but, still need to figure out the link/turnbuckle lengths needed for the rear upper links, as well as the steering/camber links.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Honestly, I think it's worth a try. Whether, or not, it's workable will probably depend on two primary things - 1) that the threading (2 matching the threading of the link/turnbuckle; 2) that the diameter of the end balls is large enough for the screw to pass through, but not so large that it would move (I'm guessing, any movement greater than 2-3 tenths of a millimeter might be considered "too much"). Another great thing about these (if they work) is that one wouldn't have to 'worry' about screwing the links in so far that it pushes though the other end, pinning the ball end, preventing it from moving...once they 'hit' the other end, it couldn't be screwed in any further, guaranteeing the ball end has full movement.

Don't know if you've already ordered some, but I'm willing to order some, just to try it out.. but, still need to figure out the link/turnbuckle lengths needed for the rear upper links, as well as the steering/camber links.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Sorry it took so long to get back! There’s a vanquish upper links. The plastic rod ends are 17 mm from hole to end. M4-.7 thread. 153 mm (with the M4 locknut as a spacer) and the actual links are 115 mm.

And a few millimeters difference isn’t a big issue, you could grind some of the material off the threaded female side. After it broke, I replaced it with the rod end from the Losi aluminum trailing arms. Took out the M4 locknut spacer and it’s currently 157 mm. So not far off. I figure when I get them I will grind off about 2 mm each on the threaded side of the rod end to end up at about 156/155mm ball to ball.

I found another website that actually has M3 and up.
I’m definitely ordering them from here. A little pricey, but I think it will be worth it.
And I forgot to mention, upper and lower linkage is the same length. So in a pinch you could use an old trailing arm as a replacement for the upper if you’re out bashing.

And to reduce slop, I try to use partially threaded bolts whenever I can (Obviously trim them to length LOL) Reference picture number two.

https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends/sy...hread-size~m3/

[Panther6834]

Those also look like possibilities.

Pluses:
Metric, as opposed to Imperial
Carbon Steel, as opposed to SS, aluminum, or nylon

Negatives:
Ball end dinner is tied to rod end diameter (as the screws holding the rod ends to the BR are M3, this forces you to use links/turnbuckles that have 3mm ends)

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Those also look like possibilities.

Pluses:
Metric, as opposed to Imperial
Carbon Steel, as opposed to SS, aluminum, or nylon

Negatives:
Ball end dinner is tied to rod end diameter (as the screws holding the rod ends to the BR are M3, this forces you to use links/turnbuckles that have 3mm ends)

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

The picture I put before with the imperial thread, that was just for reference. They have M5 and up. (But that does us no good! LOL)

I was planning on drilling out to 4mm to accommodate anyways. So no big deal. Even with the aluminum upgrade that holds the links on the axle and bulkhead (I don’t have those), still wouldn’t be losing enough material to weaken it in my opinion.
Just placed the order today. From Los Angeles will be here on Wednesday.

[Panther6834]

Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[BAJAREY2017]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?

Just get the vanquish links. Iv had mine for a couple years and have never hade a problem. You do need a couple .5 washers to take up the slack where they mount to your diff


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[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by BAJAREY2017

Just get the vanquish links. Iv had mine for a couple years and have never hade a problem. You do need a couple .5 washers to take up the slack where they mount to your diff


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These are the vanquish links… they are awesome! The play they took out of the axle was amazing (99% due to the rod ends)! Alas, they weren’t up for the job at hand… On the rear bracing for the cage, those are aluminum links. But I didn’t feel that would be sufficient for the punishment the four link takes.
And I used 1 mm shims on the bulkhead side, but didn’t feel I needed it on the axle because of how much the plastic took up the slack when I tightened the bolts. if that makes sense… Reference my previous posts for pictures. Appreciate you brother!

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

That axle looks sweet!! In my opinion brother, I wouldn’t even worry about the skid plate. It hardly touches the ground as it is and that would just add more possibilities of it scraping (in a bad way?). Plus that axle looks bulletproof!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

That axle looks sweet!! In my opinion brother, I wouldn’t even worry about the skid plate. It hardly touches the ground as it is and that would just add more possibilities of it scraping (in a bad way?). Plus that axle looks bulletproof!

Well, if it never touches the ground, then fantastic...and, if it were to, the skid (which is made of Delrin...VERY hard) will protect the 'artwork' that is the axle. I call it 'artwork' because Vitavon Racing designs gorgeous pieces of fairly-bulletproof parts.

I've got a few Vitavon parts on my 1st Capra, and they're great. While I don't have the Vitavon Capra axles, those who do say their "the best" (tho, that was before Vanquish came out with theirs...I think someone should do a side-by-side). I've seen the Vitavon rear axle on the UDR, and "bulletproof" would be an excellent word to use.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

UPDATE: It will take 24hrs for the E6000 to completely dry, but it's already 1hr in. After applying to each part, waiting 10min for it to become "tacky", 'marrying' the skid & axle, and making certain everything was aligned properly, I cleaned up the excess. Here's what it looks like.
I had to toss this third photo in, just because it gave me a much-needed laugh. "Here's looking at you, kid."

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Well, if it never touches the ground, then fantastic...and, if it were to, the skid (which is made of Delrin...VERY hard) will protect the 'artwork' that is the axle. I call it 'artwork' because Vitavon Racing designs gorgeous pieces of fairly-bulletproof parts.

I've got a few Vitavon parts on my 1st Capra, and they're great. While I don't have the Vitavon Capra axles, those who do say their "the best" (tho, that was before Vanquish came out with theirs...I think someone should do a side-by-side). I've seen the Vitavon rear axle on the UDR, and "bulletproof" would be an excellent word to use.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

UPDATE: It will take 24hrs for the E6000 to completely dry, but it's already 1hr in. After applying to each part, waiting 10min for it to become "tacky", 'marrying' the skid & axle, and making certain everything was aligned properly, I cleaned up the excess. Here's what it looks like.
I had to toss this third photo in, just because it gave me a much-needed laugh. "Here's looking at you, kid."

I love it! Looks more like a “Stellaaaaa” to me.
What about a small bead of gasket maker around the third member? And these Vitavon Is definitely a quality product!

“Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine…”

[amanc96]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

That is gorgeous! I was going to pick one up if I couldn't find the vanquish one, but got lucky and someone had a new one for sale. Did you pick up the skids off of eBay?

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by amanc96

That is gorgeous! I was going to pick one up if I couldn't find the vanquish one, but got lucky and someone had a new one for sale. Did you pick up the skids off of eBay?

Can't remember if I ordered through eBay, or if I ordered direct from T-Bone Racing (I've got too many different orders right now, and having "difficulty" keeping track...lol).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[amanc96]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Can't remember if I ordered through eBay, or if I ordered direct from T-Bone Racing (I've got too many different orders right now, and having "difficulty" keeping track...lol).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Found it! Thank you. Looks like they have 2 different versions and the first one I was looking at was sold out.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by amanc96

Found it! Thank you. Looks like they have 2 different versions and the first one I was looking at was sold out.

Yes, 2 different - one with rear bumper, and one without. Obviously, mine is 'without'.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place