Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

I bought them on eBay. The brand want listed, but that's what the sticker on the piggyback says. On eBay, they're just listed as '4pcs 123mm Negative Pressure Hydrolics Shock Absorber for 1:10 RC Car Model'. They were $65.99 for 4 shocks.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Great, thank you for the info!!

[Mervon]

Do they make aluminum shock ends? The bottom part of my rear shock ripped out of the plastic end link that goes into the rear arm. It still threads back on and appears strong, but after a good crash it will pull out again.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Mervon

Do they make aluminum shock ends? The bottom part of my rear shock ripped out of the plastic end link that goes into the rear arm. It still threads back on and appears strong, but after a good crash it will pull out again.

If you were in a crash strong enough to have ripped the shaft from the rod end, I hate to have to tell you, but the 'broken' part isn't the problem...the parts are strong enough.

Among my vehicles, I also have a Rustler 4x4. Over the past 1.5 years, I've done several upgrades to it...including replacing the stock 3500kV motor with something a bit more powerful (if you consider a 4100kV motor just a "bit more powerful"). While I did do some initial testing after reaching various points in the upgrading, I had only tested on 2S...I never got around to testing on 3S. Then, I took it with me to Vegas, to run with my step-dad's Slash. I decided to pop in a 3S, so he could see what she could do. To make a long story short, she did an absolutely amazing aerial acrobatics feat...a "perfect 10", if you ignore the landing...and, by the time I retrieved her, the front passenger-side A-arm & steering were no longer attached to each other. I don't blame the part for being 'weak'...it was my driving that led to the damage.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[521BBF]

I broke a front outdrive, so I need to pull the front diff apart. Can someone recommend an oil weight for the front diff? My center and rear diffs have the factory oil in them now if that matters. Do we even know what weight oil these trucks came with? Any recommendations for center and rear diff oil weights while I'm thinking about it? Seems like some people like a thicker oil in the center, but what is considered thicker than stock?

[smirk-racing]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

I broke a front outdrive, so I need to pull the front diff apart. Can someone recommend an oil weight for the front diff? My center and rear diffs have the factory oil in them now if that matters. Do we even know what weight oil these trucks came with? Any recommendations for center and rear diff oil weights while I'm thinking about it? Seems like some people like a thicker oil in the center, but what is considered thicker than stock?

I only have a little time driving the Rey, but I recently opened all three diffs and went with the following:
front: 30k
center: 300k
rear: locked (with a locker)

So far it is interesting... I am thinking of going back to unlocked gear diff with a small amount of diff putty (don't want to deal with leaking). The putty is less precise than oil, but if you start with a small amount you can still get some control. The benefit is no leaks ever - it just sticks to the spider gears.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

I broke a front outdrive, so I need to pull the front diff apart. Can someone recommend an oil weight for the front diff? My center and rear diffs have the factory oil in them now if that matters. Do we even know what weight oil these trucks came with? Any recommendations for center and rear diff oil weights while I'm thinking about it? Seems like some people like a thicker oil in the center, but what is considered thicker than stock?

What diff fluid weight you use depends on your intended use. Call me crazy, but I'm running 10K in the front, 15K in the center, and 80K in the rear. To help prevent the rear diff from leaking...ok, maybe not 100% 'prevent', but to 'seasonally minimalize'...I "plugged up" both ends (before filling & closing-up the diff) with waterproof grease. It seem to be working pretty well so far, as I opened the rear axle yesterday, and there wasn't any noticable amount of diff fluid.

Now that I think about it, I probably should have re-greased the rear ring gear...guess I'll be opening her back up tomorrow. A man's work is never done.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[521BBF]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

What diff fluid weight you use depends on your intended use. Call me crazy, but I'm running 10K in the front, 15K in the center, and 80K in the rear. To help prevent the rear diff from leaking...ok, maybe not 100% 'prevent', but to 'seasonally minimalize'...I "plugged up" both ends (before filling & closing-up the diff) with waterproof grease. It seem to be working pretty well so far, as I opened the rear axle yesterday, and there wasn't any noticable amount of diff fluid.

Now that I think about it, I probably should have re-greased the rear ring gear...guess I'll be opening her back up tomorrow. A man's work is never done.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Thanks! But hey, at least greasing the rear is easy. I'm about to do a ring and pinion job on a 1:1 car and I'm kind of not looking forward to it at all. I am looking forward to the results, though!

[Mervon]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

If you were in a crash strong enough to have ripped the shaft from the rod end, I hate to have to tell you, but the 'broken' part isn't the problem...the parts are strong enough.

Among my vehicles, I also have a Rustler 4x4. Over the past 1.5 years, I've done several upgrades to it...including replacing the stock 3500kV motor with something a bit more powerful (if you consider a 4100kV motor just a "bit more powerful"). While I did do some initial testing after reaching various points in the upgrading, I had only tested on 2S...I never got around to testing on 3S. Then, I took it with me to Vegas, to run with my step-dad's Slash. I decided to pop in a 3S, so he could see what she could do. To make a long story short, she did an absolutely amazing aerial acrobatics feat...a "perfect 10", if you ignore the landing...and, by the time I retrieved her, the front passenger-side A-arm & steering were no longer attached to each other. I don't blame the part for being 'weak'...it was my driving that led to the damage.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

I see what you are implying, but I asked a simple question that you failed to answer.

Thanks for the cool story though "thumbs"

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Mervon

I see what you are implying, but I asked a simple question that you failed to answer.



Thanks for the cool story though "thumbs"

Aluminum rod ends won't "solve" the problem you "encountered"...it will just slow the next part in the chain to break - possible a more costly part. If you driving is going to cause damage to parts, the smartest thing to do is to do whatever you can to try and make sure that the parts damaged are the least costly...such as the rod ends.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[521BBF]

Does anyone have any Exotek diff gear cases (EXO1843) that they would like to get rid of? Looks like everyone is sold out.

[jpelagio11]

Getting prepped for the rest of my upgrades. So far just front shock tower and servo mount. Will post pics once completed.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

[521BBF]

Some people like to grease the front diff, but what are they going for? Are they just putting a light coating of grease in to provide a lot of differential action or are they packing it full to almost lock it, similar to putting a very heavy oil in? Why would someone want to use grease instead of a very viscous (heavy) diff oil?

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Mervon

Do they make aluminum shock ends? The bottom part of my rear shock ripped out of the plastic end link that goes into the rear arm. It still threads back on and appears strong, but after a good crash it will pull out again.

They do. You can find them on eBay or Amazon. But why not just go steel? Here you go. By the way, panther is right…

McMaster Carr

[smirk-racing]

Anyone having trouble with wheels in the front interfering with the fenders? I'm getting a lot of interference on turns...

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by smirk-racing

Anyone having trouble with wheels in the front interfering with the fenders? I'm getting a lot of interference on turns...

Common problem from what I understand. Gets even worse once you step up to the BF goodrich K02. Here’s what happened to my Passenger front (stock pizza cutters) after two packs of 3S Lipo. The stock tires balloon like you’re trying to parachute from the Stratosphere!

That’s why I decided to design my front like this…

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Common problem from what I understand. Gets even worse once you step up to the BF goodrich K02.

Glad I'm going with the BFG KR2...lol


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Glad I'm going with the BFG KR2...lol


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Nnnooooo! Don’t do it panther! (Unless you’re going for the same, or almost the same, tread pattern).

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Nnnooooo! Don’t do it panther! (Unless you’re going for the same, or almost the same, tread pattern).

I'm working on various ways of preventing the tires from ballooning. As for tread pattern, the K02 & KR2 have entirely different patterns. If you're referring to the KR2 and stick BR tire, one (NOT the stock tire) is of better quality, and longer-lasting.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

I'm working on various ways of preventing the tires from ballooning. As for tread pattern, the K02 & KR2 have entirely different patterns. If you're referring to the KR2 and stick BR tire, one (NOT the stock tire) is of better quality, and longer-lasting.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Correct, KR2 and stockers to me, are virtually the same tread (And yes, the pro lines will definitely last longer! LOL.). I definitely like the chain interlock design of the K02s better. And it seems like they hook up better and Corner better. But that could be just my opinion based on my driving style.

And sorry I’ve been Gone so long!

But in contrast, I do love the KR2s on the UDR! Go figure…

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Correct, KR2 and stockers to me, are virtually the same tread (And yes, the pro lines will definitely last longer! LOL.). I definitely like the chain interlock design of the K02s better. And it seems like they hook up better and Corner better. But that could be just my opinion based on my driving style.

And sorry I’ve been Gone so long!

But in contrast, I do love the KR2s on the UDR! Go figure…

Looking at tires used in the Baja 1000, Mint 400, etc, the KR2s are probably the most commonly-use tires. As for which is better for the BR, that all depends on the surface it's being run on. If I remember correctly (based primarily on your videos), you're mostly running on paved ground, so the KO2s would be great. I'm mostly running off-road, so the KR2s are great.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place