![]() | #421 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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So I have a few questions for you guys. I want to run aluminum beadlocks like the method or trail ready wheels but obviously they won't fit stock. I know I'll need SLW hubs to bolt the wheels on but I'm not sure of what size I need. Does the actual wheel I plan on getting factor in also? They are the TSS 2.2 robby gordon beadlock wheels and are 1" wide. Is there anything else I'll need to have them fit the baja rey? Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #422 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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find a 2.2-3.0 beadlock that you like. I would only run sc beadlocks on this truck if you can.
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![]() | #423 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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That's the thing, the wheels I really like are all 2.2, not 2.2/3.0 what's the reasoning for running only sc beadlocks? Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #424 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Douglasville
Posts: 337
| ![]() The 3.0" inside allows full turn clearance for the front A arm while also allowing the wheel to tuck under the fenders. A 2.2 wheel would have to have a larger offset to clear the A arm. I'm afraid your tires would be rubbing the fenders in the end. Unless you plan on ditching the body this plan won't work.
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![]() | #425 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,607
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![]() | #426 |
I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
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Chit shat don't count
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![]() | #427 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: NCSD
Posts: 103
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Well then.... Brass broke off. ![]() |
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![]() | #428 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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more reasoning to shorten those long ash wires! anybody have a cvd pop out yet? mine did on the second lap in my first qual on sunday.... |
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![]() | #429 |
Newbie ![]() Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5
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Rear Diff Bearing gave out. Ordered New Axle Housing Ordered Fast Eddy Bearing Set Wish List: http://static1.squarespace.com/stati...PG?format=750w Last edited by OW RC; 09-12-2016 at 06:25 PM. |
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![]() | #430 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,607
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![]() | #431 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,607
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![]() | #432 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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I just keep extra bearings on hand. a new housing isn't gonna help.
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![]() | #433 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Parker
Posts: 9
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![]() | #434 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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Ok guys so I figured out an awesome and easy solution to the whole non dean's plug connector that comes built into the truck. I've seen and personally went and bought a conversion plug to run a dean's plug and obviously the wires are really long and get in the way in my opinion so I did a very easy mod to change that and I strongly suggest it to everyone. First I took out the little molded plastic piece holding the stock connector and looked at how much needed to be taken off to fit a dean's plug adapter in its place. I then sanded the center section down until I could very snugly slide in the dean's plug adapter ![]() This is after sanding it down enough to snugly fit the plug into the hole Next I used some of this E6000 adhesive glue that is similar to shoe glue people use to reinforce their body's, that was bought from home depot. I basically filled in the gaps as much as possible to keep the plug from pulling itself out for some reason ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here are the final install pics, I feel like this is a huge improvement and is so easy to do and very cheap, just make sure the dean's plug conversion cable has a small amount of wire between the connector for the stock plug and the dean's plug ![]() ![]() ![]() Also as you can see in the pictures, there's a little clip on the battery door that you can tuck the battery wires behind that keeps them completely out of the way. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #435 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: NCSD
Posts: 103
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I would be more concern with the upper links than the connector. What problems did you encounter that made you change it?? Mines been great! Their is not a single complaint on this whole thread about a problem with it.
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![]() | #436 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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![]() | #437 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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you went out of your way to epoxy an adaptor... when you could have soldered or had somebody solder a deans on the esc.. now you got an ec3 with a fuse.
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![]() | #438 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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I had the stuff to do it and that's how I decided to do it. Sure I could have done that but I don't have soldering equipment and this was literally a 10 min job. Lol you guys make it seem like it's unchangeable, worst case I buy the molded piece from losi and put it back to the way it was or do like you said and solder it. I'm very happy with the way it turned out and solved the low hanging wires Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #439 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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you cant buy just that piece.. you have to buy the 2 front mudguards and the back upright of the chassis to get it.
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![]() | #440 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
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Well at some point I could solder the connector I glued and take off the end attached to the ESC right? Where exactly is the fuse in the ec3 connector? Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk |
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