![]() | #1361 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Suffolk
Posts: 806
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My Yeti TT sits now since I got my BR. It is slower on 3s than the BR on 2S. The body/cage is a bad design and doesn't hold up well to poorly landed jumps. I destroyed the stock rear driveshaft trying to keep the nose up going off of jumps. It bends front lower A-arm hinge bolts like it's its job. It also bends the stock trailing arms like they are made out of twizzlers. It sure does look good though, lol: ![]() | |
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![]() | #1362 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: easton
Posts: 1,385
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If you compare the size of the super Baja rey (according to rc car action) to the dbxle (Losi website), the overall length are just about identical with the dbxle being only 1/4 inch. When you compare the other dimensions and weight, the Baja is smaller. It’s about 3 inches narrower, 3 inches shorter and about 5 pounds lighter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1363 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Nowhere
Posts: 1,326
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I have to wonder how interested in it I would have been if it was a "Super Rock Rey" instead of the TT. Perhaps the Super Rock Rey isn't far off since the platform is there now. Quote:
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![]() | #1364 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita
Posts: 1
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Having trouble taking off the roll cage and body on the rock rey. I saw your post, but the photos are unavailable. Can you redirect me to the photos?
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![]() | #1365 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pontypool, wales
Posts: 364
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4 screws on rear shock tower either side , 4 screws on base and 2 crafty screws hidden in the rear wheel well area , the 2 front screws either side of nose , then remove the front shock tower and that should be good to remove , this will only be possible once the stock body has been removed ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #1366 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2015 Location: UK
Posts: 185
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The person who designed/approved that whole design has allot to answer for. I'm pretty sure to access the front diff, you need to remove over 40 screws. Perhaps the person should get an award for finally designing something less maintenance friendly than a TVP chassis.
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![]() | #1367 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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12 screws to get the body and cage off the 1/10 Baja rey. id imagine its the same on the super Baja rey. since it is just bigger in size, id imagine its not much different. the front case isn't hard to get to. an hour at the max if you are moving slow enough.
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![]() | #1368 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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I’v been thinking about getting a 5T or vekta but looking at parts costs and everything else I think I’ll wait until the new rey has been out long enough for everyone else to find all the little problems and the fixes then buy one. I wonder why they couldn’t just design the battery tray to hold one battery instead of needing 2. Other then that I can’t wait to get one, it looks like a blast from the couple of videos that are out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1369 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Suffolk
Posts: 806
| ![]() I think their reasoning is people already have standard 3S and 2S batteries so if they design in the series connector that will save space on the truck and help the consumer out by not having to buy any special 4s/6s batteries. I know I have multiple 2S and 3S packs laying around so when I get one it is just a matter of throwing 2 on the charger instead of one and lettin her eat.
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![]() | #1370 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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I get that but it just seems like it’s easier to charge a couple 4 or 6s batteries instead of 4 2s or 3 s. I guess now I have a reason to buy another charger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1371 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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Speaking of batteries, who has been running 3s for a long period of time in their rey. Since I got my senton which I run on 4s my Baja Rey now feels so damn slow. Especially when I drive them back to back. With the ssd front diff and vanquish rear axle that uses I think a 14mm pinion bearing I think I’ll be good. I thought about running ceramics in the center to beef it up. Has anybody ran into any major problems on 3s. If so what are they. I don’t mind working on my truck so changing bearings more often doesn’t matter to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1372 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,751
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I've run 3s exclusively for a year now. SSD front bulkhead, any of the aluminum 3rd members (I have a Metal Concepts 3rd), Hot Racing diff cups front and rear, grade 12.9 ring gear screws, and I'd say it is reasonably reliable on 3s now.
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![]() | #1373 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Suffolk
Posts: 806
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Looking at the cost of a 5000 MAH 6s battery, I think you could buy a multi battery charger for the price of 2 of them. lol. | |
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![]() | #1374 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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That’s good to know. So you get the diff cup for the RR and everything drops right in with no mods? As far as driveline and front axles is everything holding up ok? I was going to try the hot racing driveline but for some reason it just looks like it wouldn’t hold up as good as the stocks one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #1375 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,751
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The HR diff cups are meant for a Vaterra Twin Hammers, they go right in with an open diff, but require minor dremel work to fit the locker/spool. The same would work in the center diff too, but I hadn't been having tranny problems, so I just put them in the axles. I did have 2 bearings (on the same gear) of the tranny fail, but surprisingly the truck still drove fine, just really noisy! Gotta love those mod 1 gears! I also locked the center diff very early on. Driveshaft and front axleshafts are still hanging in there, I put a drop of TriFlow lube on each joint after I wash/dry the truck to keep things rotating freely. My driveshaft was assembled out of phase from the factory and caused a lot of vibration when the rear suspension drooped. I caught that early on so I just rotated one end 90° and it's been smooth since. |
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![]() | #1376 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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Sounds good, thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1377 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,607
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![]() | #1378 |
I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Medina
Posts: 2,263
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Good thorough cleaning and maintenance tonight on the old Baja Rey. Completely blew it apart, cleaned out everything and threw it back together. The SSD front bulkhead was perfect when I checked it out. Bearings still completely smooth and I run it almost entirely on 3s. I've got some new RC4WD raceline short course wheels coming, new rubber and foams, and a new body. She should be good to go this Spring, or Winter, if we ever get a thaw! Last pic is what I was up against when I started. Had plenty of wet, muddy runs late Fall and early Winter. I bet I pulled a half a pound of crud and dirt of the car, not including the body!
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![]() | #1379 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: St George
Posts: 274
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Looking good man! Hot racing trailing arms are next in my list, how are yours holding up. I like those more then the ones from metal concept. What rear light bar is that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #1380 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Asia
Posts: 45
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is there anything to note when buying a new set of wheels for the baja rey? I don't care for the mock disc brakes, I'm looking at a lot of proline wheels like the trencher, blockade and interco. Are there any you would recommend? My wheels are wonky and I heard it's the plastic not the tire fitting. Anyway I would like to purchase some new ones, thanks in advance. |
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