Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[BAJAREY2017]

I run the proline closed cell foams with the stock tires and the proline bfg desert at tires and really like them. I too felt the stock foams are way too soft.


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[edjo69]

Pro-line just released a version of the Hyrax that will also fit, bit more aggressive tread pattern, still very scale looking if that matters to you. BR2017, which closed cell foams are you running, i have had a hard time figuring out which of their foams work on the SCT rims??

[BAJAREY2017]

Just the proline 2.2 3.0 foams. There is still a small air gap which helps with traction. I like they way feel and less traction role. I had a set of gladiators and badlands and used the foams out of those.


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[edjo69]

Originally Posted by BAJAREY2017

Just the proline 2.2 3.0 foams. There is still a small air gap which helps with traction. I like they way feel and less traction role. I had a set of gladiators and badlands and used the foams out of those.


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Sweet, thank you! Merry Christmas!!

[Rumpelhardt]

Finally got one. Waiting on parts to finish it up.

[edjo69]

What tire and wheel combo is that? Are the rotors and discs still on?

[Rumpelhardt]

Originally Posted by edjo69

What tire and wheel combo is that? Are the rotors and discs still on?

Vanquish 2.2 KMC Bully wheels and Pro-Line 1.9 B.F.G. Mud Terrain T/A tires and yes the rotors and calipers are still on.

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by Rumpelhardt

Vanquish 2.2 KMC Bully wheels and Pro-Line 1.9 B.F.G. Mud Terrain T/A tires and yes the rotors and calipers are still on.

Truck looks sweet, I will have to look into fitting 1.9 tires on 2.2 wheels, thanks for the info, Ed

[TheLetterJ]

I recently swapped my trailing arms to some stock Vaterra Twin Hammers arms. I drilled a hole clean through them and through-bolted the swaybar links, but they just bolted up otherwise. Of course, I had to make new upper links too. I cut the stock rear driveshaft down, but it ends up not having much spline engagement at full droop and will likely need to be replaced with something different. The tires just barely clear (2mm-ish) the side portion of the cage that extends behind the cab, but they left some rub marks on the cage after a run (tire expansion.)

The truck definitely handles differently. I've only run 2 packs through it on the street, but the rear end is significantly stiffer now that there is less leverage on the springs, which is a good thing, but maybe a little too much of a good thing. Some slightly softer springs may be in order.

The other issue I came across was stuffing the big 7400mah 3s in there. I normally compress the rear suspension a little and it slides right in, but the angle of entry is much steeper now that the axle is nearly 1 1/2" closer to the rear bulk head. The Metal Concepts axle truss is right in line with the battery door too, so that wasn't helping. My solution was to trim off the 1/4"ish plastic pieces on the bottom of the chassis, directly under the battery door, then file a radius on the lower corner of the Metal Concepts truss clamp. Now the battery fits, though it's still tight getting it in.

The whole goal here was to shorten the truck to a point where a standard short course body would line up without looking ridiculous, and for that, it worked perfectly. The Baja Rey is now nearly identical in wheelbase to a Slash and that opens up a ton of body options. I'm still working on fitting a Proline '78 Chevy stepside body on it. The back end of the cage sticks out a fair amount past the SCT sized body, but with some creative modification I'm hoping it will pass as a bumper. On this particular body I can't really trim it in a manner that would sit down low enough for the cab to be tight to the cage, so I'm going to smoke the windows and let the cab sit a bit higher than the cage. A stock Slash body can sit down pretty low with minimal trimming. Front and rear fenders look great right where they are. There's already holes molded into the stock cage in the ideal spots for body posts, so mounting with 4 body posts/clips will be my method.

If this all comes together in a manner I'm happy with, I'll either buy nice VTH arms with replaceable rod ends (so I can add a mm or 2) or spend the extra to have JEC make custom short Baja Rey arms... we'll see.

[TheLetterJ]

What size wheel hubs are you using Rumplehardt?

[Rumpelhardt]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

What size wheel hubs are you using Rumplehardt?

Everything uses stock Baja Rey parts but the front spindals had to be modified pretty substantially to clear the wheels.

[Kreuzritter84]

Hello! Who changed the stock motor to a hobbywing 3660 3600kv? your opinion about this motor? Is it more powerful than stock?

[edjo69]

Rumpelhardt, How do you like HH PP 540-L? Are you running 2s or 3s? Pinion size? I was thinking that would be an awesome setup esp for 3s with a good pinion and managing the power output properly you should be able to keep things super cool. Interested to hear how you have it setup and what your thoughts are? Ed

[hamsterrorist]

I'm super-late to the Baja Rey fest but just received my BND truck this morning.

Still having fun removing screws! Rx is coming out in favour of either a Radiolink (with gyro) or a Hitec unit.

Main thing to think about is the battery connection. I had bought both EC3 to Deans and EC3 to XT60 adapters (for 2S and 3S) but didn't realise how low down it would sit - the battery wires will ground out. Got the EC3 mount out so i'll sort something appropriate (did Losi ever make mounts for other plug types?)

Shocks will probably need some tuning to suit the terrain i'll be hitting, but will run it stock first and see how it handles things.

For ESC programming, is it compatible with anything but the Fuze program card?

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by Kreuzritter84

Hello! Who changed the stock motor to a hobbywing 3660 3600kv? your opinion about this motor? Is it more powerful than stock?

I have and yes its a bit more powerful, much smoother too but I am running a HW XR-10 Pro G2 ESC, so I can put in nice throttle curves. It is good motor though to get the best out of it you would probably want to run it sensored with an ESC that is programmable,

[TheLetterJ]

Originally Posted by hamsterrorist

For ESC programming, is it compatible with anything but the Fuze program card?

The Hobbywing program card for the SC8 works... since the stock ESC is just an SC8 with a different sticker on it. Costs about $10, just be sure to use "table 2" when programming.

[CM9000]

replying to radiodisturbers post on the shocks..

what they are now is pretty soft for the truck. you might want to actually look into thicker oil or lock the center diff. these trucks tend to... lift the front and put the power to the front where there is less traction. i personally locked mine with bad horsies diff lock when i had it. drive it like that before usi g a gyro. with the open rear diff and a locked center, i doubt you would need it.

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[hamsterrorist]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

The Hobbywing program card for the SC8 works... since the stock ESC is just an SC8 with a different sticker on it. Costs about $10, just be sure to use "table 2" when programming.

Ahh sweet, plug into the fan port like the Xeruns then? I've got the basic HW card (and one for my 1080) so yay, much better than blinking lights.

[TheLetterJ]

Yep, just plug it into the fan port. That took me a minute to figure out the first time, I kept trying to plug the signal lead from the esc (that gets plugged into the rx) into the program card.

[hamsterrorist]

Cool. I sometimes forget which ESC is which on my stuff (tend to program once and leave it alone after that) so get caught out on the fan port ones

Is the extreme cogging at low revs (under 2S) normal for this machine? I've never encountered such bad cogging on a sensorless setup. Hauls ass otherwise!