Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[CaliCrawler]

A little late to the party. But here she is! Gen 2 BR King body.
Rpm a arms, aluminum trailing arms, savox steering servo with aluminum horn, modified and painted body with some BF goodrich KO2.

[Panther6834]

I'm going to post this in both the Rock Rey & Baja Rey threads.

A few months ago, I was searching for a Twin Hammers (especially a kit), but all I turned up was a scam by some online Indonesian business. So, I'm abandoning my search for a Twin Hammers, and looking into getting either a Rock Rey, or Baja Rey...but, I'm undecided as to which.

I googled "Losi Rock Rey vs Baja Rey", but the search didn't town up anything useful...actually, other than a single video showing both vehicles being run in a snowy area, the search didn't turn up anything. I realize that both are, essentially, the same vehicle, with some slight differences beyond the bodies. I guess the best other-brand comparison I could would be by Traxxas, where the Slash & Stampede 4x4s are virtually identical, with the Rally & Rustler 4x4s being "kissing cousins" to the first two.

What are the similarities, as well as the differences, between them? What advantages does each have over the other? What reasons would you pick one over the other, and why? If there were online comparisons, I'd be about to do the research, myself...but, I couldn't find any. I can find articles about each, individually, and I can find articles comparing each of them to other vehicles by other manufacturers...but absolutely nothing comparing them to each other.

It is possible that I could decide to not get either...but, if I do decide to get one of them, I'd really like to make a decision sooner, rather than later, and any information current/previous owners can provide would be greatly appreciated. Even better, of there are any who own (or previously owned) both, info from you would be even more appreciated. Thanks, in advance, for whatever hello you can provide.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[edjo69]

The RR has more reduction in the differentials as well as straight cut gears. The front suspension is a different set up with the RR using a turnbuckle as the upper link instead of an a-arm, as such it has a c-hub, and a c-hub carrier instead of just a spindle. The RR also uses a different upper shock mount. The RR uses 2.2 wheels, the BR uses SCT wheels (2.2/3.0), the cages/bodies are different and I believe that is about it, I might have missed something maybe others will have more input. I have never had a RR but I do have 2 BR's and love them, I am also a big fan of Desert Racing and that is why I like this truck so much. I also own track cars/trucks and crawlers, oh, and airplanes!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by edjo69

The RR has more reduction in the differentials as well as straight cut gears. The front suspension is a different set up with the RR using a turnbuckle as the upper link instead of an a-arm, as such it has a c-hub, and a c-hub carrier instead of just a spindle. The RR also uses a different upper shock mount. The RR uses 2.2 wheels, the BR uses SCT wheels (2.2/3.0), the cages/bodies are different and I believe that is about it, I might have missed something maybe others will have more input. I have never had a RR but I do have 2 BR's and love them, I am also a big fan of Desert Racing and that is why I like this truck so much. I also own track cars/trucks and crawlers, oh, and airplanes!

Guess I wasn't clear...sorry, my fault. I'm looking less for 'parts' differences, and more for 'characteristics' differences. For example, the driving characteristics of a stadium truck, short course truck, and buggy are all different...so, what are the characteristic similarities & differences of the RR & BR? Looking at things from this perspective, what advantages does each have over the other? Finally, based on their individual characteristics, what reasons would people pick one over the other, and why? Hopefully, it makes more sense with e wording it this way.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Panther6834]

An 'interesting' question just popped into my mind. The RR uses (essentially) stadium truck wheels/tires (ie. 2.2"), while the BR uses SCT wheels/tires (ie. 2.2"/3"). Obviously, the RR could use the BR's 2.2"/3" SCT wheels...but, will the RR's 2.2" wheels (or other 2.2" wheels)fit the BR?

I ask this because of something I had to work through on one of my Rustler 4x4s. For the longest time, I was running 2.2"/3" SCT wheels/tires (the Rusty normally uses 2.8" wheels), but I wanted to convert it to a "true" stadium truck, complete with 2.2" wheels, and the stock C-hubs wouldn't fit. In the end, I discovered that the 4Tec 2.0 C-hubs could be used. If 2.2" wheels will work on the BR, this could help me make a decision.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[JDM74]

The whole frontend on the RR is different than the BR. Straight 2.2 wheels have to have a lot of offset to work on a BR.

[Panther6834]

To those who replied to my inquiry, thank you. Decided to go with the Baja Rey...the Mint 400 Edition, that is.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[edjo69]

Excellent choice, you will love it!!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by edjo69

Excellent choice, you will love it!!

Thanks. Should (hopefully) get her out for her first run sometime today. Charged the battery last night, before going to bed. Speaking of 'charging', while the vehicle looks fantastic (although I'll be replacing those plastic links ASAP), the included "charger" is a bit of a joke...yes, it charges, but, at 18W max, charging takes forever. On the 'plus' side, it does easily for into any pocket, including those tiny pockets found on dress shirts. Heck, my wife could even put it inside the super-tiny front pockets on her jeans.

Since the only battery I have work an EC3/IC3 connector is the one the BR came with, I've already ordered the XT60 piece that's attached with 2 screws (not sure what to actually call it, but I'm certain those reading this know what I'm talking about), so that I can use batteries other than the Spektrum batteries. Not sure yet if I'll just replace the IC3 connector on the ESC...or, if I should replace replace the ESC & motor. As for other hop-ups, I could use some help.

As I said, the first upgrade I plan to do is replace all links, and possibly the front upper & lower A-arms. I've seen several aluminum offerings (including one from Losi), as well as one aluminum/carbon fiber offering (which I really like the looks of) for the rear trailing links, as well as several aluminum (again, incl one from Losi) & SS offerings for the rear upper links. If suggestions/recommendations for both could be given, I'd appreciate it.

Moving to the front end, I've seen a few plastic (incl one from RPM, which is a brand I usual avoid) & aluminum upper & lower A-arms. With my off-road & on-road race vehicles, aluminum is never even an option. With my bashing vehicles (Sl4sh, & 2 Rusty 4x4s), I've always avoided aluminum A-arms. With the BR, I have no clue as to whether I should 'avoid', 'consider', or 'absolutely get' aluminum A-arms. I could REALLY use help in not only determining that, but also in decided which to get (if aluminum A-arms are suggested/recommended). Aluminum A-arms on the BR - yes or no? And, if 'yes', which?

For any other upgrades, what would those extremely familiar with the BR suggest? Aluminum rear axles? Aftermarket front and/or rear driveshafts? Aftermarket ESC and/or motor (especially sensored)? Alternate batteries known to fit? I'm open to whatever suggestions/recommendations people can provide. Ready, set, recommend/suggest..........

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Definitely buy a better set of tires! Have them ready to go once these pizza cutters break. Play balloon so bad they actually broke off part of my body. This is after 2 packs 3S. I also removed the front sway bar and it helps prevent cornering and uneven landing rollovers.You should love it! Good choice.

Speaking of tires, does anybody know when they’re planning on making belted short course truck tires?

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

To those who replied to my inquiry, thank you. Decided to go with the Baja Rey...the Mint 400 Edition, that is.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

$599!!! Take that back and go buy one without a battery. They are only $419 (At least at my LHS). And then grab a quality charger with some sweet Lipo’s! Or $499 @ RPP.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

$599!!! Take that back and go buy one without a battery. They are only $419 (At least at my LHS). And then grab a quality charger with some sweet Lipo’s!

It wasn't $599. Plus, I'm doubting your LHS is selling this for $419...yes, the 'standard' Ford Raptor versions sell for that price, but this is the Mint 400 Limited Edition...only 500 were made...EXTREMELY limited. That sticker is probably applied by Losi at the factory, or warehouse. Price I paid was CONSIDERABLY lower.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

It wasn't $599. That sticker is probably applied by Losi at the factory, or warehouse. Price I paid was CONSIDERABLY lower.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

🤩 Nice! That’s a sweet looking body!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Nice! That’s a sweet looking body!

I like it. Honestly, I'm REALLY not a 'Ford person'...but, I will admit, I do like the Raptor, and the Mint 400 edition definitely peaked my curiosity. Already ordered my first two 'upgrades', although one - a 3D-printed replacement for the part that holds the ESC's IC3 connector on place, except that this one is designed for an XT60 connector - isn't for immediate use. I haven't decided whether I'll just replace the IC3 connector with an XT60, or whether I'll replace the ESC & motor. If I decide to swap ESC & motor, what are the best suggestions/recommendations?

Speaking of upgrades, I've got a few questions I'm hoping other BR owners can help me with. The first upgrades I'm thinking I should actually do are replacing the rear upper links & lower trailing arms, and possibly the front upper & lower A-arms. Starting with the front end, I've seen some plastic (including from RPM, a company I typically avoid), as well as some aluminum, offerings. With my off-road & on-road race vehicles, aluminum A-arms aren't ever options. With my bashing vehicles (2 Rusty 4x4s, and a Sl4sh), aluminum A-arms are considered "bling", and should be avoided. With the BR, I honestly don't know. Would they be recommended? Should they be considered a 'necessity'? Or, should they be avoided? I'd really appreciate some advise, and suggestions, in this area.

Moving to the rear, I've seen several aluminum lower trailing arms (including one aluminum/carbon fiber), as well as Aluminum & SS upper links. For each of these, what would the best suggestions/recommendations be?

After the links, trailing arms, & A-arms, I'd like to turn my attention to other upgradable parts. For example, I've already ordered an aluminum horn (the second upgrade, as hinted at at the beginning of this post), but how highly is it recommended to upgrade other steering & suspension parts...especially the suspension? Looking at the rear axle, I've primarily seen two ways of upgrading - replacing the plastic axle with an aluminum axle, or adding aluminum & SS parts (rear upper link mount, axle protector, etc) to the plastic axles. Which would be considered the "better" way to go, and can specific brands/parts be suggested/recommended? Also, what about the shocks? Are they truly good, or can better shocks be recommended? After everything 'suspension-related', what other parts would be the best/most-important to upgrade, and can specific (ie. brand & part number) parts be suggested/recommended?

As I'm now entering into a new vehicle category, I have little-to-no knowledge, and can use whatever assistance people are willing to provide. There are three LHSs in my area - one specializes primarily in off-road racing; one specializes in drift racers, and crawling; the last specializes in crawling, bashing, and "go fast". As such, none of them have the ability to truly help me where upgrading the BR is concerned. So, I'm open to suggestions & recommendations. Ready, set, recommend..........

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[edjo69]

There seem to be two distinct groups in this thread, ones who run the truck hard and fast and put her away dirty and one that goes the more scale route with their builds recreating actually 1:1 race trucks with significant amounts of time spent detailing and configuring the truck as it would be in 1:1. So when asking for parts selection advice it would be good to know the direction you want to take your truck in.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by edjo69

There seem to be two distinct groups in this thread, ones who run the truck hard and fast and put her away dirty and one that goes the more scale route with their builds recreating actually 1:1 race trucks with significant amounts of time spent detailing and configuring the truck as it would be in 1:1. So when asking for parts selection advice it would be good to know the direction you want to take your truck in.

Trying to figure out the best way of answering your questions...and, the best I can come up with is, "Six of one, and a half-dozen of the other." If you know that old saying, then you understand...and, if you've never heard that saying before, please, allow me to explain. In short, it means 'somewhere in-between'.


In my case, and in the case of my new Baja Rey, I plan on a decent amount of "hard & fast" (it is marketed for that, even if the included parts don't equal the marketing 'hype'), and I want to maintain an "above average" level of detail...but, at the same time, I try my best to not "put 'em away dirty", and the level of accurate detail isn't as important to me as the quality of the parts, and the level of performance the parts can be used for. I can foresee the possibility of using 3S, but 2S will probably be primarily used. To be honest, this could easily change, depending on whether, or not, I replace the ESC & motor, and what kV the replacement motor had...ie. the higher the kV, the more likely 2S will be my "go-to"; the lower the kV, the more likely 3S will be my "go-to".



Besides the Baja Rey, I have a few off-road race vehicles which are used on an indoor clay track (for the winter, it's been converted to a carpet track), one on-road USGT car, three "bashers" (Traxxas, one of which is currently being converted to a 1/8 e-buggy, for track use), and two completed crawlers (both Capra...one for trail & rock crawling 'fun', the other a C3 comp rig). There are and/or will be other crawlers, including a planned U4 comp crawler rig. For all of the current vehicles, I try my best to clean them before "putting them away", and spend more than a decent amount of time maintaining them.


I guess another way of putting it is, I love going the "best of both worlds" route (my motorcycle, for example, is a performance-oriented touring bike - it can carry quite a load when I need it to, plus its 900cc I-3 engine can accelerate extremely quickly & maintain high speeds). For the Baja Rey, I'm looking to have it follow a similar route...although, again, focusing slightly more on the 'performance' aspect, and slightly less on the 'scale' aspect - say 60/40, or even 65/35. Does that help?

[lonleycreeper]

I have been considering the Castle slate 2850kv motor for mine, then 3s. I run primarily on some old 2s shorty packs I have and it is sagging them terribly. My plan is to install the motor and go to 3s, giving me a little more top speed than stock on 2s. Kind of a middle ground on speed. I have not had an issue with the stock tires, but as I said 2s. My rig has taken some incredible hits, but I have not broken anything but the stock servo. My plan is to replace parts with upgrades if I even break them. Probably go back to plastic A arms in front, and SSd diff housings. Other than that some suspension tuning and she should be good.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Speaking of tires, does anybody know when they’re planning on making belted short course truck tires?

I've been wondering this same thing for a while now. In addition to my new BR, I have a Sl4sh, as well as two Rustler 4x4s. When I bought the first Rusty 15 months ago, I didn't like the almost-non-existent selection of tires...so, I got SCT wheels & tires, and mounted them on the Rusty. While the Sl4sh project is currently "on hold", I'll still (eventually) need some good tires for it. The same goes for the BR...even tho I've only had it for a day, I'm already searching to replace the wheels & tires (not to mention other parts, as mentioned in my earlier posts), and belted SCT tires would be VERY welcomed. Pro-Line does make one specific belted SCT tire. Unfortunately, it's a slick, for drag racing.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[mass-hole]

The SSD axle third member is a good option for the rear. I cant imagine you will break the actual housing but what will eventually happen is the pinion will walk and trash one of the bearings.

I can also almost guarantee that the screws in your diff cups will shear if you start running it on 3s. Exotek diff cups with their larger screws help there.

At least on the rock rey, a lot of people are happy with a locked center diff. Vaterra locker fits.

An upgraded front diff housing is less important I would say, but when I went in to put heavy diff fluid in the front diff 3 of my 4 ring gear screws were already sheared off so I ended up putting an Exotek cup up front as well.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by mass-hole

The SSD axle third member is a good option for the rear. I cant imagine you will break the actual housing but what will eventually happen is the pinion will walk and trash one of the bearings.

I can also almost guarantee that the screws in your diff cups will shear if you start running it on 3s. Exotek diff cups with their larger screws help there.

At least on the rock rey, a lot of people are happy with a locked center diff. Vaterra locker fits.

An upgraded front diff housing is less important I would say, but when I went in to put heavy diff fluid in the front diff 3 of my 4 ring gear screws were already sheared off so I ended up putting an Exotek cup up front as well.

The SSD 3rd member, I was already considering...but I'm also considering one of the aluminum axle offerings. Curious as to which might be better/smarter to go with. As for the ring & pinion, my plan is to already have a higher-quality replacement (have to find out what's available, but I do know I like VP & SSD) ready, for when it's needed. Regarding bearings, I've already been looking into that. My two Capras (Capri?) have Fast Eddie standard bearings, my race vehicles have Avid & Acer ceramic bearings, and my bashers have Avid Revolution Aura bearings. For the BR, are there any specific bearing recommendations (performance oriented, but requiring less maintenance than pure performance bearings)?

Switching over to the diffs, I've been looking at that Exotek cup. From what little I've read (so far), I'm guessing the Mint 400, still being based on the Raptor, already has an open diff. If it isn't, I'm guessing I'd need LOS232051, plus the diff cup, to convert the rear to running a diff. Is there anything else I'd need ? As for the center diff, I'm thinking I'll keep it. However, in regards to all three (front/center/rear), thinking back to how Traxxas does they're, I'm guessing it might be a good idea to replace the diff fluid in all three. Are there recommendations for diff fluid weights?
---------------------------------
Looking to what I've done, today I learned to remove the cage from the chassis (which also required removing the center body piece, because of the LEDs. 26 screws later, I had the internals exposed, and I was finally able to do my first upgrade - replacing the shock oil. To start, I put 30wt up front, and 37.5wt in the rear (I'm open to recommendations, if people know better oil weights to use). In replacing the oil, I also discovered that the rear shock had no preload added at the factory (the front was approx 2/5 down from the top), which I 'corrected'...suspension now feels right.

So that I don't have to go through the same trouble when working on the BR in the future, I'm planning on adding a decent-length servo extension to the lightbar wiring. This way, instead of having to remove everything I did today, I'd only have to remove 12 screws. Since I'll be replacing the Spektrum Rx with a Futaba, I also plan to install a Powerbooster Switch on Ch3, so that I can remotely turn the lightbars on/off. I'm still debating whether to keep the correct ESC & motor, replace both (with Mamba X & HH PP-XL V2), or just replace the motor. As with other upgrades, I'm open to suggestions/recommendations.

I am slowly starting to get a better picture of what other hop-ups to consider, but one that I can't make heads or tails about is the top plate. Is it better to stick with the stock aluminum piece, or go with the carbon fiber part?

Ok, that's enough for today...time to go 'violate' that "shelter in place" order, and see how the upgraded shocks preform.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place