Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

That makes it a tough call. Tthe Rock Rey would probably be a good candidate for the ROC412 HD, as it's more of a rock racer. As for the Bala Rey, it's somewhere between an SCT & ST, and a rock racer. Looking at the stock motors (2800kV vs 3800kV), as well as the vehicle type (again, Baja Rey is closer to SCT than rock racer), I'm thinking the Pro4 HD 3500kV should be the perfect choice for 2S. And, when it comes time for 3S, the Pro4 HD 2500kV.

Before I order a motor, snyone else care to chime in? Are my motor choices "good", or "bad", for the Baja Rey? Or...am I better offs going with the ROC412 HD 3100kV for 2S, and 2300kV for 3S. This cat is curious to know.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Stock is a 3800kv 550 size motor. I personally am very happy with its speed and power and have been contemplating getting more effenciency out of mine by dropping Kv and volting up to 3s while dropping down to the smaller pinion. Doing the math for wheel speed, 2550kv would give nearly the same motor speed on 3s as the 3800 on 2s. I have noticed the front tires ballooning on 2s, so I cannot imagine how bad it is on 3s.
I have not found on the other hand a motor I like yet. 2600-2700kv and 550can size 5mm pinion, and sensored. Anything that's close, seems to be directly for crawlers, or much higher Kv.

The Pro4Hd is really close, but the Kv values are off imo just a bit, loosing the top speed while gearing down.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Stock is a 3800kv 550 size motor. I personally am very happy with its speed and power and have been contemplating getting more effenciency out of mine by dropping Kv and volting up to 3s while dropping down to the smaller pinion. Doing the math for wheel speed, 2550kv would give nearly the same motor speed on 3s as the 3800 on 2s. I have noticed the front tires ballooning on 2s, so I cannot imagine how bad it is on 3s.

I have not found on the other hand a motor I like yet. 2600-2700kv and 550can size 5mm pinion, and sensored. Anything that's close, seems to be directly for crawlers, or much higher Kv.



The Pro4Hd is really close, but the Kv values are off imo just a bit, loosing the top speed while gearing down.

Something occurred to me this morning...but, I wanted to first run or by those who've had their BRs for a while (including/especially those who might also have the RR), and might have already tried this.

I could be misunderstanding this...but, as I understand it, the ring & pinion gearing on the RR is a "faster" gearing than the BR's, thus a good party of why the RR uses a lower kV motor. So, what I'm thinking is this - would it be better/smarter to stick with the stock r&p gears, and get a motor with a kV rating that's closer to the stock motor...or swap the r&p gears for the RR r&p gears, and get a lower-kV motor. First, and I correct in my 'understanding' of the RR having "faster" r&p gearing? If so, then he's my latest ideas:

1) Stock r&p gears, Tekin Pro4 HD 3500kV, and stock pinion (to start...possibly up/down by 1 tooth).
2) Swap for the RR r&p gears, Tekin ROC412 HD 3100kV, and whatever tooth-count pinion would work best with this combo (which I could probably use a little help on determining a "starting point").

My thoughts on the second option are three-fold. First, that the RR r&p gears would put less strain on the motor, and transmission. Second, the lower-kV motor will afford greater torque, & quicker acceleration. And third, with a lower kV motor, it'll run cooler. I'm sure there are probably other benefits of running the lower kV motor. Thoughts?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[TheLetterJ]

You've got the r&p ratios backwards. The RR is 42/12 (3.5:1) and the BR is 40/14 (2.85:1) so the stock baja rey gearing is considerably faster. The gear sets are interchangeable and I run the slower RR gears in my BR and have not had any r&p issues since (along with Exotek diff cups, SSD front bulkhead, metal concepts rear.)

What is your aversion to spinning your motor faster? I generally shoot for a max of ~50k rpm (calculated rpm, it won't ever actually spool up that high once you consider losses through the drivetrain) for a given voltage which is around 3900kv (though anything in the 3100-4300kv would be fine) for a 3s that's hot off the charger, or 6000kv for a fully charged 2s, then gear down for the desired speed. A fast motor geared low will run smoother and cooler than a slow motor geared high, assuming both are geared for an identical top speed. The faster motor may be capable of drawing more peak amps, but the higher geared, slower motor will draw more average amps (lower speeds considered) which will make it run hotter. Minimum startup rpm on a fast vs slow motor from the same model line is generally very similar, so the fast motor geared way down will actually have a smoother, slower startup GROUND speed.

My vote is to give the stock motor a try, but gear your pinion down (10t is a good starting point) for 3s. If it's too fast for your intended useage, switch to RR r&p's instead of a lower kv motor. I definitely wouldn't consider a lower kv for 2s use.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

You've got the r&p ratios backwards. The RR is 42/12 (3.5:1) and the BR is 40/14 (2.85:1) so the stock baja rey gearing is considerably faster.

What is your aversion to spinning your motor faster? I generally shoot for a max of ~50k rpm for a given voltage, which is around 3900kv for a 3s, or 6000kv for 2s, then gear down for the desired speed. A fast motor geared low will run smoother and cooler than a slow motor geared high...so the fast motor geared way down will actually have a smoother, slower startup GROUND speed.

My vote is to give the stock motor a try, but gear your pinion down (10t is a good starting point) for 3s. If it's too fast for your intended useage, switch to RR r&p's instead of a lower kv motor. I definitely wouldn't consider a lower kv for 2s use.

First, thanks for the reply. I know you've had your BR for a while, so I'm certain you know what you speak of (plus, you've been in the RCC forums for quite some time). I don't have any "aversion to doing my motor faster"...remember, almost all of my earlier vehicles are for off-road racing. However, as you said, guess I did have the BR & RR r&p gearing thing backwards (had I done the math, if have known that - 2.85:1 for BR, 3.5:1 for RR). Such is life.

Touching on the 2S vs 3S matter, to start work, I'll be running only 2S. While I plan to give it plenty of outdoor use, it will have to start it's life as a 2S-only vehicle. I live in San Jose, CA, and there's not exactly a lot of outdoor places to run in. Thankfully, we do have an excellent indoor track at one of the LHSs), but only 2S is allowed. However, once I can afford a second motor (2-3 months), which would be for 3S-only use (read my previous posts for my 2-motor/pinion idea), then if have the option for running 2S indoors, and 3S outdoors.

So...once again...I'm back to not knowing which motor to go with. You say "nothing higher than 4100kV, except that the only higher-kV options for the ROC412 HD are 3100kV (what I was looking at), and 4200kV. If I were to go back to considering the Pro4 HD, the choices are 3500kV & 4300kV, which, by your wording, would appear to be "worse" choices. Now, I could go back to what my original choice was - a Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro R 540-L V2, which is 4100kV, but can also hit up to 60K RPM. All of these choices are powerful, but also efficient, motors. The only other thing I can think of would be to go with an all-Castle combo, except I don't find any 550-can motors in the 3500-4100kV range.

EDIT: I almost forgot...another party of the reason for replacing the motor is that I'll be replacing all electronics. Obviously, the underpowered stock servo needs to be replaced, but I'll also be replacing the Rx (I prefer to use my 7PX for all my vehicles), and the ESC (with Mamba X). In replacing 4 of the 4, might as well replace the fourth. Also, some brands of ESCs don't work with certain brands of receivers. I discovered this when I went to replace the receiver on my first Traxxas vehicle. Let's just say the Traxxas-branded ESC "doesn't communicate well with Futaba receivers".

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by edjo69

Cali, to disable the AVC completely you need to re-bind the transmitter with the second bind plug installed. Turning it "off" in the transmitter does not disable it completely and you will have weird stuff happen occasionally. So if you want no weirdness re-bind with both plugs or button pushes (its in the manual) depending on which RX you have.

Thanks bud, I do know how to disable just haven’t done that yet. (Mine uses the two plug method). Just saw this tonight so will definitely try tomorrow. I thought that might be the case but Okley silly doklie I’m an idiot! LOL. I hope you are right, I will post the results tomorrow.

[CaliCrawler]

I’m sure this has been posted… But check your pumpkins and see if there are shims! Got the bad whining noise and no drive in the rear. Here’s what the gears looked (Left gear was passengers, right gear was drivers) like and no shims…

Rebuilt better than new! Haven’t checked the front yet…

[CaliCrawler]

Finally installed the P.E.R.S. Switch. Only on front though. Works perfect with the stock radio.

https://youtu.be/AuVYJidPRzo

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Finally installed the P.E.R.S. Switch. Only on front though. Works perfect with the stock radio.

Looks good...and BRIGHT. Can't remember what servo I ordered (direct from Futaba), so can't remember if I'll be running the Mamba X @ 6V, or7.4V. Once I'm back home, and can 'verify' my servo, I'll either order a 3-pack of PERS, or 3-pack of NERS.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Looks good...and BRIGHT. Can't remember what servo I ordered (direct from Futaba), so can't remember if I'll be running the Mamba X @ 6V, or7.4V. Once I'm back home, and can 'verify' my servo, I'll either order a 3-pack of PERS, or 3-pack of NERS.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Those two light bars are a total of about $40! Come with all necessary mounting hardware too. I will try to capture a pic at night. My wife and kids say it’s like shining a tactical flashlight in their eyes!

Forgot to mention, these are just your standard size LED strips (kind of...) in a Polyoxymethylene housing (I think it’s delrin?)

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Looks good...and BRIGHT. Can't remember what servo I ordered (direct from Futaba), so can't remember if I'll be running the Mamba X @ 6V, or7.4V. Once I'm back home, and can 'verify' my servo, I'll either order a 3-pack of PERS, or 3-pack of NERS.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Just get the NERS then u are covered either way and they are still tiny

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by edjo69

Just get the NERS then u are covered either way and they are still tiny

That's true...thanks, Ed.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Dbdynsty25]

Has anyone found a spot to order that black rhino wheels alone...without the tires? I can only find the original BR wheels it seems.

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Dbdynsty25

Has anyone found a spot to order that black rhino wheels alone...without the tires? I can only find the original BR wheels it seems.

I haven’t seen any yet, actually thought that’s what I was getting when I ordered through my LHS, but no. I will sell you my old wheels and tires. You could dismount and reuse them. Only have about three packs in them.

[Dbdynsty25]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

I haven’t seen any yet, actually thought that’s what I was getting when I ordered through my LHS, but no. I will sell you my old wheels and tires. You could dismount and reuse them. Only have about three packs in them.

Thanks for the offer, but not interested in dismounting, lol. I bought my raptor brand new a few weeks ago and sold the tires immediately (too much ballooning on 3s). I run the PL KO2s I thought I could get some axial methods to fit, but they don't (offset is about 1/8-1/4 inch too wide so the tires don't tuck. So back to the original BR Losi rims I go I guess. Oh well. Maybe they'll release them someday.

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Dbdynsty25

Thanks for the offer, but not interested in dismounting, lol. I bought my raptor brand new a few weeks ago and sold the tires immediately (too much ballooning on 3s). I run the PL KO2s I thought I could get some axial methods to fit, but they don't (offset is about 1/8-1/4 inch too wide so the tires don't tuck. So back to the original BR Losi rims I go I guess. Oh well. Maybe they'll release them someday.

Same BF goodrich I’m running… they should honestly just include these instead of the stock tires! I can’t wait till they come out with a belted version of the K02!

[CaliCrawler]

Quick question about front dual shocks. I figured out an easy way to add dampers to the front. Maybe? I’m just holding it in the photo with some pliers to show location. Would there be a disadvantage (besides the shocks being in a vulnerable location) to mounting them here with some standoffs to keep them away from the spring? I’m working on trying to mount them internally with metal concepts lower and RPM upper a arms. Trying to get a consensus on looks and functionality. I have already ordered the 100 mm king shocks from RC4WD (to match the 120 mm I installed as dampers in the rear). Here are pics with the proposed location.(These are 90 mm shocks in the picture and not the ones I will be using)

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Quick question about front dual shocks. I figured out an easy way to add dampers to the front. Maybe? I’m just holding it in the photo with some pliers to show location. Would there be a disadvantage (besides the shocks being in a vulnerable location) to mounting them here with some standoffs to keep them away from the spring? I’m working on trying to mount them internally with metal concepts lower and RPM upper a arms. Trying to get a consensus on looks and functionality. I have already ordered the 100 mm king shocks from RC4WD (to match the 120 mm I installed as dampers in the rear). Here are pics with the proposed location.(These are 90 mm shocks in the picture and not the ones I will be using)

Honestly, I can't say for certain (considering we both just recently got our BRs). However, I do know that, where you're considering adding the dampers, that's actually the location Traxxas uses for the front shocks on the Roster, Slash, & Stampede...so, there's the possibility it might work.

On a separate note, I'm finally on my way home from visiting family in Vegas, and will soon be able to stay installing the various upgrades that are awaiting me.

Be safe, everyone...but still get out and "play".

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Saw these on a recommendation from a post a few pages back. Pulled the trigger. Got here in about seven days! Not bad! A solid piece of Kit (damn I sound British now!) Much improved over the Losi aluminum arms. [Yes I realize I did have them installed upside down(the Losi alum. arm) lol, or did I? The one side looked too jagged to run on the bottom.] Had to use about 3 mm worth of shims on both arms to accommodate the narrow ball of the RC4WD shocks. I definitely feel improved rigidity right away from these I arms. Don’t even need to test to tell there will be a difference.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Saw these on a recommendation from a post a few pages back. Pulled the trigger. Got here in about seven days! Not bad! A solid piece of Kit (damn I sound British now!) Much improved over the Losi aluminum arms. I definitely feel improved rigidity right away from these I arms. Don’t even need to test to tell there will be a difference.

Mine arrived today, along with the Vitavon upper & lower A-arms. Honestly, I won't be using the lower A-arms (I'm keeping them as 'backups'), as I have the MC lower A-arms...I wanted them primarily for the upper A-arms. Still need to get those darn bearings ordered...keep forgetting (guess, that's what happens when you get old(er)).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Mine arrived today, along with the Vitavon upper & lower A-arms. Honestly, I won't be using the lower A-arms (I'm keeping them as 'backups'), as I have the MC lower A-arms...I wanted them primarily for the upper A-arms. Still need to get those darn bearings ordered...keep forgetting (guess, that's what happens when you get old(er)).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

I haven’t even looked at their control arms… Do you think they (Uppers) would facilitate the second shock within the arm (With the MC lowers we are running)?

My bearings have been holding up pretty well! That’s why I have held off so far.