Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[smirk-racing]

Thanks for the tips on body trimming. I will get out the scissors.

I see a lot of folks run paddles on the rear, but do people run paddles on all 4 corners? I am tempted to try it out...

[521BBF]

What tires will not balloon on 3s that are roughly the same diameter as the stock tires?

[smirk-racing]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

What tires will not balloon on 3s that are roughly the same diameter as the stock tires?

Proline LP stadium truck tires are slightly smaller in diameter but wider. I am using those now and they are great.

Proline Badlands SC are similar in diameter but have less carcass so they balloon less.

In general unless you thicken the oil in the center diff you will tend to get ballooning up front because the truck diffs out a lot. I am using 100k diff oil in the center diff and it helps a bit. Probably need to move up to 300k though. Just painful to work on this vehicle.

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

What tires will not balloon on 3s that are roughly the same diameter as the stock tires?

None on the market yet. Waiting for them to get with the times and start belting the tires… I think panther mentioned to me one time about the duck tape trick (Actual duct tape is made from aluminum. A lot of people think they use duck tape for ducting which is untrue. And if they do, hire another HVAC guy!) Duck tape is something from WWII. it works great for a quick fixes and keeping your ammunition dry!

“Duct tape was first invented by a female factory worker during World War II. It was originally called 'duck' tape because it was made out of a cotton duck fabric and it repelled water like a duck's back. Duck Brand duct tapes are made with three main components: rubber adhesive, cloth, and film backing.“

But any fabric tape would work on the inside of where the tire tread is. To basically work as a “belt,” and should take ballooning to a minimum. I would just make sure to use the exact amount of tape to meet end to end and not overlap, or else you might end up with a unbalanced (out of control) tire.

Or you could use these. They are belted! Obviously have to remove front and rear panels.

https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...es-mounted.asp

[521BBF]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

None on the market yet. Waiting for them to get with the times and start belting the tires… I think panther mentioned to me one time about the duck tape trick (Actual duct tape is made from aluminum. A lot of people think they use duck tape for ducting which is untrue. And if they do, hire another HVAC guy!) Duck tape is something from WWII. it works great for a quick fixes and keeping your ammunition dry!

“Duct tape was first invented by a female factory worker during World War II. It was originally called 'duck' tape because it was made out of a cotton duck fabric and it repelled water like a duck's back. Duck Brand duct tapes are made with three main components: rubber adhesive, cloth, and film backing.“

But any fabric tape would work on the inside of where the tire tread is. To basically work as a “belt,” and should take ballooning to a minimum. I would just make sure to use the exact amount of tape to meet end to end and not overlap, or else you might end up with a unbalanced (out of control) tire.

Or you could use these. They are belted! Obviously have to remove front and rear panels.

https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...es-mounted.asp

That's funny because I just watched that video. I will never use those tires, though. Why they don't make belted tires in all sizes is mind boggling. I guess RC is not that big of an industry.


A couple posts back, I went over how I Gorilla taped my stock tires which worked great for a limited time. Then, I noticed one of the tire's tread completely worn down in one spot about an inch long. What I think happened was the tape must come unglued in that area which allowed the tire to balloon only in that small area, resulting in a small area of worn tread. I could hear it as it ran, kind of like a flapping sound, but I didn't know what it was at the time. This happened after running 1 pack on asphalt.


For now, I'm going to lock my center diff to see if that helps. This truck is kind of a pain in the ass. I don't think I have gotten through 2 packs in a row without having to rip it apart to fix something.

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

That's funny because I just watched that video. I will never use those tires, though. Why they don't make belted tires in all sizes is mind boggling. I guess RC is not that big of an industry.

Putting a belt in a tire is pretty precise on a full scale. They probably just didn’t have the tooling until now to achieve that goal. I also think there are more RC enthusiast than 20 years ago, so the cost of manufacturing such an item would be worth it now. I’m almost thinking of messing around with some galvanized screening material along with some JB Weld to keep in place. Maybe add a little to the side wall also? Maybe using some closed cell foam adhered to the inside of the tire with something strong that would not affect the rubber or foam?
What about putting some expandable foam on the inside? Maybe these are all stupid ideas. But my brain is working today!

[TTDRIVER13]

Man it has been a long time since I’ve posted in here!!

Crazy thing is I still have my original gen1 BR from 4 years ago and ready for this! On the original ring and pinion and diffs!! ... it’s been on 2s it’s whole life, greased diffs (not oil filled, I still don’t understand that part but to each there own) greased packed bearings, stock suspension from day one ...

Been reading threw the thread a bit and seems like things have tapered off significantly. I don’t see to much bearing failure going on, stock bearings get better?? What are the gen 2 issues if any??

I am passing off my gen 1 to my 5yo and waiting on the king version as a Father’s Day present. Super pumped to be getting another one, since then we have moved into our own home with 2 acres so things should be getting spicy!!

Ordered up some alloy tie rods and upper links, I already have a Servo to throw in, will need to get a alloy steering horn. Other than this, my og BR has held up amazing with just those simple add ons and as you can tell, I use it!! No shelf queen here.





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[TTDRIVER13]

I am curious on what set up you guys are running??

Shock oil weight
1 front
2 rear

Ride height
3 front
4 rear

5 Did you add weight to rear?

6 toe in/ toe out?

Any other set up tips you guys recommend??

Pfa.







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[benmast3r]

Dear Baja Rey Friends,

I decided to do sth completely different:



show large picture

It's not yet completely finished but most likely it will remain "cab only"

What do you think about it?

If you find it cool I'm happy to provide further details.

[edjo69]

I like it allot and I would like to know what body that is!!

[edjo69]

I added a new album to my profile, I have the Gen 1 body modified for my lights etc.. and it is now out for paint. Here are a few teasers

[benmast3r]

Originally Posted by edjo69

I like it allot and I would like to know what body that is!!

Basically I took two Pro-Line 1984 Dodge Ram 1500 Race Truck bodies, cut them into pieces and re-assembled them to get a larger cabin.

The planning and build took several months. During that time Pro-Line released the 1967 Ford F-100 Race Truck body, which would have been my favorite for that kind of project.. but I still finished it and I think it looks quite rad.

I'm considering to make a photostory or blog or something showing the detailed build, anyone taking interest in?

[smirk-racing]

Originally Posted by benmast3r

Basically I took two Pro-Line 1984 Dodge Ram 1500 Race Truck bodies, cut them into pieces and re-assembled them to get a larger cabin.

The planning and build took several months. During that time Pro-Line released the 1967 Ford F-100 Race Truck body, which would have been my favorite for that kind of project.. but I still finished it and I think it looks quite rad.

I'm considering to make a photostory or blog or something showing the detailed build, anyone taking interest in?

Yeah please do post the build!

[Mervon]

Sorry if this is a newb question....

I bought a new servo and the truck is now driving all over the place. It seems its over steering, so I believe I need to adjust the travel settings on the new servo? When I go full throttle, the truck is all over the place. I am guessing the AVC is doing this? Why?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

[benmast3r]

Did you try turning avc off? (simple question, but is it still driving all over the place?)
I had a case where avc was doing the opposite of what it was supposed to. So it amplified the oversteering. I don't know if that is what happens with your car. Makes no sense to be honest. But in any case, it is worth to calibrate the avc again (do the whole bind / calibration process). Therefore watch and follow this video: https://youtu.be/nERfl5gsgRI

[Panther6834]

Actually, it makes sense to me. The same thing initially happens to mine, as well as on my Traxxas Rustler 4x4. I resolved both problems by replacing the ESCs, motors, and receivers (Rx are Futaba).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Mervon]

Originally Posted by benmast3r

Did you try turning avc off? (simple question, but is it still driving all over the place?)
I had a case where avc was doing the opposite of what it was supposed to. So it amplified the oversteering. I don't know if that is what happens with your car. Makes no sense to be honest. But in any case, it is worth to calibrate the avc again (do the whole bind / calibration process). Therefore watch and follow this video: https://youtu.be/nERfl5gsgRI

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Actually, it makes sense to me. The same thing initially happens to mine, as well as on my Traxxas Rustler 4x4. I resolved both problems by replacing the ESCs, motors, and receivers (Rx are Futaba).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Thanks guy, recalibrating it worked!


Are there any other forums you guys use for the baja rey? I have found very little out out there on the interwebz

[Roush611]

Well my Baja Rey is in pieces as my buddy bent an axle and ruined the front diff outdrives. While it is apart I was thinking about replacing the shocks. Has there been a determination if stock are the best option or if prolines are the way to go? If powerstrokes are the way to go, what are the correct sizes for the front and rear? Thanks!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Roush611

Well my Baja Rey is in pieces as my buddy bent an axle and ruined the front diff outdrives. While it is apart I was thinking about replacing the shocks. Has there been a determination if stock are the best option or if prolines are the way to go? If powerstrokes are the way to go, what are the correct sizes for the front and rear? Thanks!

For the front, use the 'long' (designed as rear shocks for Slash/Rustler 4x4s). For the rear, use the PowerStroke XL. The real problem is in the springs, which many have had problems with (especially since there's no "tuning kit" available for the XLs...everyone says, and I discovered I was in agreement with, that the springs area all too 'soft'. I came up with an "interesting" solution that might, or might not, work for you.

The spring sets have a longer 'lower', and a shorter 'upper', spring, which allows you to use the same, or different ("dual") rate springs to/bottom. Instead of using the short 'upper' springs, I used longer, but slightly softer, 'lower' springs in the upper halves, which slightly compressed them, effectually turning them into slightly stiffer springs. At the same time, it also resolved the length & preload problems. Using the dual-rate springs as Pro-Line intended, in order to (attempt to) get the stiffness needed, I had to apply a LOT of preload. By using 'lower' springs on the upper halves, I had to apply very little preload...and, the results are near-perfect.

Again, this "solution" might, or might not, work for you...but, it's worth giving it a shot.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[elRayRay]

Originally Posted by Roush611

Well my Baja Rey is in pieces as my buddy bent an axle and ruined the front diff outdrives. While it is apart I was thinking about replacing the shocks. Has there been a determination if stock are the best option or if prolines are the way to go? If powerstrokes are the way to go, what are the correct sizes for the front and rear? Thanks!

I'm still dialing in springs, but I went with Traxxas GTR XX-Long (#7462) shocks up front and the 134mm threaded UDR fronts (#8450) on the rear. I've got a way to go on springs, and Traxxas has a lot of options for lengths and rates to do some dual-rate options. I've got at least a dozen pairs, I think.

The truck isn't fully built yet as the new Raptor body isn't painted yet and I need to get a 4s pack to get the truck to running weight.