Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[Roush611]

Originally Posted by elRayRay

I've got the stock shocks (with no spring) in the stock (forward) mounting location and some 134mm Traxxas GTR's (with springs) in the auxiliary location. Still needs tuning as I haven't been out with it much lately. I think I've got 30wt in the stock shocks/dampers and 60wt. in the GTR's. Probably moving up to 80wt/900 cst in the GTR's soon.

That is exactly what I’m doing right now. I have the stock shock unsprung with 17.5 wt and a powerstroke behind it. Seems to be working well, was just wondering if there is a disadvantage to having the damper in front of the shock since I rarely see it set up like that.


Oh PS ElRay... I wound up putting my stock A arms back on (replacing the RPM arms) and it made an immediate difference in letting my Rey rebound. Still needed different springs on the prolines but there must be something weird about the RPM arms.

[elRayRay]

Originally Posted by Roush611

Oh PS ElRay... I wound up putting my stock A arms back on (replacing the RPM arms) and it made an immediate difference in letting my Rey rebound. Still needed different springs on the prolines but there must be something weird about the RPM arms.

I've been thinking about getting a reamer of the right size and hitting the RPM arms to help with any binding. I'm still on the fence about aluminum arms so being 4s and shooting for 60 mph on smooth dirt, I want something more forgiving (breakable) than aluminum yet much stronger than stock.

Next on my upgrade list is aluminum trailing arms (JEC Racing), an SSD driveshaft, and some 3d-printed spring collars to run dual springs on the GTR's.

[Panther6834]

Today, I didn't intend to do much - just replace the 6 "decorative" bolts (per wheel) on the Vitavon Racing machined Method 703 wheels with black scale lugs, and remove the battery tray 'divider' (so that I can use 3S, instead of 2S.However, I also ended up removing the rest axle, disassembling it, disassembling the rear diff, completely cleaning all parts (from the 80K diff fluid I originally filled it with, and (once completely dry) then filling it with 2.5M diff fluid. I don't want to completely "lock" it...more of an "extremely limited-slip" differential...so, I figured, a super-viscous fluid should do the trick. Once I can obtain some 100K & 500K diff fluids (no one seems to have any in stock...not my LHS, not Amain, not Horizon Hobby, not even eBay), I'll be replacing the 15K currently in the front & center diffs with 100K (front), and 500K rear. After running my BR out in the Las Vegas desert, I realized that the 15K/15K/80K combination I had originally gone with was way too low (all my other plans vehicles are off-road racers, a few crawlers, and one on-road USGT). What can I say...I'm still learning.

Speaking of which, I'm finally going to get a DBXL-E 2.0...so, might anyone suggest f/c/r diff fluid weights, as well as f/r shock oil weights? Initially, I plan to run her as-is...but, before next (ie. 2021) Christmas, I plan to do at least some of the same type of upgrades as those I've done on my BR (and, yes, I will start going through the appropriate threads for that vehicle...just thought I might ask in here, just in case there's are any other BR/RR owners who also happen to be DBXL-E owners).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[vonmarshall]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Today, I didn't intend to do much - just replace the 6 "decorative" bolts (per wheel) on the Vitavon Racing machined Method 703 wheels with black scale lugs, and remove the battery tray 'divider' (so that I can use 3S, instead of 2S.

Looking great! As a matter of interest, what metal trailing arms have you got there? I have the GPM arms which turn out to be much bulkier than the originals and the tires rub against them. Annoyingly may have to invest in the Vivaton arms to go with the wheels.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by vonmarshall

Looking great! As a matter of interest, what metal trailing arms have you got there? I have the GPM arms which turn out to be much bulkier than the originals and the tires rub against them. Annoyingly may have to invest in the Vivaton arms to go with the wheels.

The rear lower trailing arms are the Vitavon Racing arms, as are the upper A-arms. You can read the build thread here:
The Black Cat 'hops up' the Rey, Baja style


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[521BBF]

Does anyone know where to get diff gaskets (the one that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear)? My ring gear screws sheared and the gasket turned into blue goop. I know about the kits that come with the gears and other parts, but I just need the gaskets.

[TheLetterJ]

I made one out of card stock, I had a business card that happened to be the right thickness. Just trace the carrier, cut it out, set it inside the ring gear to mark your holes, then punch them out with a leather punch (or whatever you've got.)

[521BBF]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I made one out of card stock, I had a business card that happened to be the right thickness. Just trace the carrier, cut it out, set it inside the ring gear to mark your holes, then punch them out with a leather punch (or whatever you've got.)

I may do that, thanks. If you measured the thickness, do you remember what it was?

[TheLetterJ]

Sorry, I don't remember the actual measurement... that was a couple years ago and I've had a stroke since then!

[521BBF]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Sorry, I don't remember the actual measurement... that was a couple years ago and I've had a stroke since then!

I understand! I'll have to pull the center diff out to measure it. Fun.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

Does anyone know where to get diff gaskets (the one that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear)? My ring gear screws sheared and the gasket turned into blue goop. I know about the kits that come with the gears and other parts, but I just need the gaskets.

You might not need the gears right now...but, sooner or later, you might. It could prove "wise" to just go ahead and get the diff rebuilt kit, and have the gears "on hand" for when they are needed.

Just a tip in putting diffs together (or, back diff together, in your case): First, I align the gasket into the diff cap/ring gear, so that the holes of the gasket align with the holes on the diff cap/ring gear. Next, I insert two short pieces (as straight as possible) of a paperclip into opposing holes on the diff cup, with one piece being slightly longer than the other, which I use as "guides" for attaching the diff cap/ring gear (first getting the taller paperclip piece through one hole, then the opposing paperclip piece through the other hole). This perfectly aligns the screw holes on the diff cup, gasket, & diff cap/ring gear.

Last bit is to screw screws into the opposing holes without paperclip pieces, remove the paperclip pieces, and screw in the final two screws (using Loctite on all 4 screws, if you do choose...personally, I recommend using Loctite). Honestly, I can't remember who I picked up the "paperclip pieces" truck from, other than to say it was from someone in the RCC and/or Traxxas forums.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Panther6834]

Installed the Exotek #1842 SS Skidplate today.
What I don't understand...unless my package was "missing" something...is why they didn't include the longer screws that are REQUIRED to install this. With pretty-much all other upgrades requiring longer screws, they are usually included. For example, the TBR bumper kit included the liner screws. As best I can remember, when is came to upgrades requiring longer screws, any upgrades for my TRL, Traxxas, SSD, XRAY, etc, vehicles have always included any necessary longer screws (with the exception of one kit, from JConcepts, which included a detailed list of other parts needed, including the longer screws, but it's also provided all the Traxxas part numbers for those needed parts).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[521BBF]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Sorry, I don't remember the actual measurement... that was a couple years ago and I've had a stroke since then!

If anyone wants to make their own, I just measured a new one. 0.020".

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by 521BBF

Does anyone know where to get diff gaskets (the one that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear)? My ring gear screws sheared and the gasket turned into blue goop. I know about the kits that come with the gears and other parts, but I just need the gaskets.

A thought just occurred to me. I don't know if it's available by itself, but it's worth checking into. Considering the gaskets would wear out far more often than the spider gears, it would make sense for just the gaskets to be available. Try calling Horizon Hobby support, and see if it's possible to order/purchase just the gasket (and, if so, while you're at it, order several of them, as "backups"). The worst they can say is, "It's impossible to order by itself."

A previous experience with Traxxas support made me think of this. I had purchased the CVDs for the Slash/Rustler 4x4, and during a race, someone ran they're vehicles into the rear-right tire, causing the axle stub to snap at the hex pin. You can't just purchase the axle stub from any retailers, as there's no published part numbers of the individual parts that makes up the CVD...but, to internally, that have part numbers for EVERY part. To shorten what could be a longer story, I was able to get just the needed axle stub (less than $10), without having to purchase an entirely new pair of CVDs ($70).

Chances are, Losi/Horizon Hobby probably has an internal part number for that one specific part...and, if they do, it could be possible to purchase just that part (again, purchase several, as "backups"). Just a thought worth checking into. On that note, I think I'll be giving them a call about this today, as I should probably get some (if they can be purchased).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[vonmarshall]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Today, I didn't intend to do much - just replace the 6 "decorative" bolts (per wheel) on the Vitavon Racing machined Method 703 wheels with black scale lugs, and remove the battery tray 'divider' (so that I can use 3S, instead of 2S.

Thanks for the tip I have ordered the Vivaton rear arms so my GPM ones will be on ebay soon.

Is it just me or is it unbelievably hard to get the tires to sit in the wheels properly. It has taken me almost an hour to do just one wheel! I am using Proline BFG which are meant to be compatible, but it feels that the grooves in the wheels that the rib sits in are just a tiny bit too small meaning I am having to squidge them in with a screwdriver.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by vonmarshall

Thanks for the tip I have ordered the Vivaton rear arms so my GPM ones will be on ebay soon.

Is it just me or is it unbelievably hard to get the tires to sit in the wheels properly. It has taken me almost an hour to do just one wheel! I am using Proline BFG which are meant to be compatible, but it feels that the grooves in the wheels that the rib sits in are just a tiny bit too small meaning I am having to squidge them in with a screwdriver.

It's "strange"...but, honestly, not really.

I've built two Capra (one from a kit, the other built from just a cage with no other Axial parts), one running 1.9 tires on 2.2 wheels, the other running 2.2s on 2.2s. With both Capra, not only was getting the wheels together (specifically, the screws that hold the wheel 'front' & 'rear' together) a PitA, but so was getting the tires & foams to be perfectly straight/balanced.

However, when it came to mounting the BFGs on the Vitavon Racing Method 703 wheels, mounting the tires into the wheels was fairly simple, and getting the screws seated was only slightly more difficult. Even better, 3 of the 4 had the tires & foams perfectly straight/balanced the first time...no "wobbly tires". As for the fourth, I disassembled everything, and put it back together, and it was still "wobbly". Instead of trying a third time, I decided that the wheel, itself, might be the problem (turns out, it wasn't), and so I grabbed the fifth wheel (purchasing the wheels from Vitavon, 5 wheels are included, just like the RTR vehicles), and mounted it...and it was perfectly straight/balanced on the first try.

Honestly, I don't know if it was my 'skill' that got everything "just right" (as if I have any 'skill' in building tires/wheels) the first time (not counting that fourth wheel), or if it has to do with the design of the Vitavon wheels (remember, these are closer to the design of 1:1 beadlock wheels, even if they are a 2.2"/3" design), or if it was just "dumb luck". Whatever the reason, I'm just happy I didn't have to "fiddle" with the foams/tires to get them straight/balanced.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Panther6834]

New steering turnbuckles finally built, and installed. Gotta admit, getting them to the proper 85mm length is a PitA, principally because the rod ends are 90-degrees to each other. But, it's done. Next up - replacing diff fluids in the front & center diffs (rear was done last week).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Prize]

Hi,

The time has finally come to start upgrading my Baja Rey. Just waiting on a few more upgrades to come in but will start building tomorrow. As it stands its the completely standard BND running on 3s. I found it to be not the greatest to control and put part of that down to the AVC as it feels like it keeps correcting all my steering input so that's the first thing that will be disabled. Will post the upgrade list so far tomorrow and shoot some pictures as well. Hopefully you guys will be able to give some input in what else to replace.

Cheers,

Prize

[vonmarshall]

Does anybody have the correct toe-in/out dimensions for the front wheels? I have replaced the stock steering set up with the GPM upgrades but kept the stock turnbuckles. Theoretically it should be same as stock but it just looks a bit too toe-iny to me. Annoyingly I never took a decent photo of the stock set up before the upgrade. Any help most welcome. A good photo of the stock front suspension from directly above would definitely help.

[lonleycreeper]

Mine appears to have a degree or two of toe out... I measured, with a ruler, mind you, so not super accurate, 11 1/4" on the back edge of the front tires, and 11 5/16 on the front edge.... Bone stock truck here.